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Quote:

Originally posted by GT-ahh on 28October2002

i found that often computer cables have long screw type things that you can use for joysticks, the best ones ive found came with a shell for a db25 computer connector from dicksmiths, only costs a couple of bucks…

Cheers! Thats a wicked idea :smiley2: Don’t they even have a screw type bottom to them so you could easily affix them to the buttons.

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Yeah i see what you mean!So would i be asking around for (double pole micro switches)or is there another name i should be asking for?Would dicksmith have them by chance or jaycar maybe?

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I WANT ONE

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Never mind, I realise that this is what the Tin Car forum is about. Doh :smiley9:

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Ive just checked and they have four legs or as you say “DP”.So what would be best for this job?What should i be asking for?Cheers NZ…

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i have had this prob but not relly that much of a consern soo im just going to leave it as it is

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Oh buy the way i have a G-04 WHITE SKYLINE R34 45MHZ on reciever but 27mhz on box ohh well!

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mine ismine’s definitely a microswitch problem! ive just pulled out all four switches and tomorrow im gunna put sum SPST Momentary”On”Push Button Switch http://www.dse.co.nz/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/3dbc8bfe027b3df4273fc0a87f99074c/Product/View/P7558and see what happens!If you know of any better let me know cheers!!

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New Zealand!

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I just meant that I didn’t destroy the end of my screwdriver so I could still use it for those little fiddly jobs.:smiley1:

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mine’s a compact 27mhz (nissan).

are you going to replace the front plastic parts you actually touch or the microswitches?

mine’s definitely a microswitch problem (if that’s what they’re called).

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nostalgia barrelll…. have you never once when you were small ever watched Speed Racer?

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yeah, this happened to me too. (hey, 1st post on the forums after lurching around for a while).

it’s different though. here my left button stopped clicking after only an hour or two of use, but it still seems to function ok. would definitely like to replace it if possible though.

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Personally i think they look S*#T…. Yeh i guess there cool if you love ultraman … but id prefer it if they concentrated more on “real” cars … id love to see heaps more differenet models, than stupid “toy” cars .. thats my opinion anyway.

[Admin]

get a import bit charg from aaron or toyeast or some thing

get one of each of the freq ( jap bitcharg have 4!!!) and then start racing them

[Admin]

I would have to check, but from memory, they are just micro switches like you can get at DS or Jaycar.

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Rather than use a precision screwdriver, I filed the point off a small nail. This way my screwdriver still has some “precision” :smiley1:

I use a small tack hammer for the banging part.

[Admin]

The telescopic antenna mod is for the antenna on the controller, not the car. Check out http://www.questformadness.com for details on this mod.

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Yeah get the 3.5 your friend prob wont know the dif and then you save 15 bucks ( just say it cost you 30 bucks lol)

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http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4005

Here’s the link of these tiny cars, imho it’s lame that kyosho can’t even come up with 4wd mini-z…

Judge for yourself:smiley15:

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No problem :smiley2:

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Ahh i see thankyou Chris 🙂

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No the 3.0 and 3.8 are all the same size as any other Bit Char-G motor. You don’t need any special other parts.

[Admin]

With the 3.0 is the actual motor physically bigger thus requiring a different/wider heat sink? If so were do you get these from?

[Admin]

hijukal,

You can pick up the original Tomy Bit Char-g from Toys-r-us for around AUD$49.99. I got my OEM Bullet from auspcmarket for AUD$49.50 delivered for free in Australia.

The problems with the OEM Bullet gears isn’t something a bit of careful adjustment and (dry, else you’ll spend too much time cleaning)lube cannot fix.

I haven’t come across any other clones.

Regards

[Author]

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