Crom
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Quote:Check with Dick Smith for a cheap timing circuit that can run on the same voltage.
I’ve seen very simple timers in old electronic magazines, so someone with some sparky nouse might be able to help you (ie, not me. i don’t know wnough about it).
At the moment, I’m trying to design a charger that has a timer. My main problem is trying to make it like the controller’s charger. So that it turns on when you plop the car on it, and then turns off after a set period of time.
Only I wanted to be able to choose the voltages it charges at and the time it charges for… :p I’m still working on it…
The impossible just takes a little longerWell, no uh oh’s… 🙂 yet… 😀 But I’m beginning to think I should just shell out the $10 to JNH and get a spare 27MHz chassis just in case.
The impossible just takes a little longerWell, no uh oh s… 🙂 yet… 😀 But I’m beginning to think I should just shell out the $10 to JNH and get a spare 27MHz chassis just in case.
The impossible just takes a little longer🙁 I saw the pair for sale in the DigiQ part of the forum… :dead: I just can’t afford them…
oh well…
The impossible just takes a little longerQuote:Yep, If it runs ok on the charger it sounds like a battery to me
:smiley16:uADoes that mean that when you charge up the bit, the Rx has to deal with the voltages that you’re supplying?
Uh oh…
The impossible just takes a little longerQuote:Yep, If it runs ok on the charger it sounds like a battery to me
:smiley16:uADoes that mean that when you charge up the bit, the Rx has to deal with the voltages that you re supplying?
Uh oh…
The impossible just takes a little longerThanks for your replies guys! (or girls whichever is more appropriate)
Its a pity that these schematics aren’t avaliable, but then again I guess that has more to do with copyright laws and patents and what-not, than TOMY not wanting people to mod their bits…
I’ll echo DaveF’s request, anybody able to draw a schematic from whats there?
(I don’t know anything about SMD so I can’t even give drawing one of the Rx a shot.)
GT-ahh, Thanks for that basic schematic!
The impossible just takes a little longerThats where I heard about them. I was hoping that the tanks would have still been avaliable in Hong Kong, I’ve got someone over there now, who’s buying me some spare parts, but I was hoping that there would be a shop in HK that they were being sold in so that I could get one.
The impossible just takes a little longerEdited by – Crom on 20 January 2003 15:55:52
Does the car work when you hold it in different orientations? Like upside down or vertically?
You might have knocked the battery slightly out of it s socket.
Try looking under the circuit board in the car. The battery is the green cyclinder lying horizontally in the rear of the chassis. Just make sure that it is still seated properly.
For pictures showing how to dissassemble the car, look at
http://www.ausmicro.com/technical/bitcharg/front-end-disassembly-how-to/index.htmBe careful when you open up the car, there are some very thin and fragile wires inside.
The impossible just takes a little longerDoes the car work when you hold it in different orientations? Like upside down or vertically?
You might have knocked the battery slightly out of it’s socket.
Try looking under the circuit board in the car. The battery is the green cyclinder lying horizontally in the rear of the chassis. Just make sure that it is still seated properly.
For pictures showing how to dissassemble the car, look at
http://www.ausmicro.com/technical/bitcharg/front-end-disassembly-how-to/index.htmBe careful when you open up the car, there are some very thin and fragile wires inside.
The impossible just takes a little longerQuote:Sorry to rain on your parade but it wouldnt charge, because the drive transistors (even if turned on) wont conduct on reverse polarity.
If the motor was directly wired to the battery it would tho, but then you would have no start/stop control when the battery is full.
The back emf will only ‘brake’ the motor if it is shorted accross a resistance. When you let ‘forward’ go, the time that the motor takes to slow down really depends on what gear set you have in and how much friction is in the drive train.
Sorry, I just cant resist these techo issues:dead:
even if they are in the wrong section:shock:I know I know… I was just fooling…
hrmm… can the topic be moved to BCG Technical? Although I think its pretty dead now…
The impossible just takes a little longerHrmm… thats a pity… I’ve got a friend over in HK who’s willing to go toy shopping for me…
Okay then, so does anyone know a good place to find BCG stuff in HK? At good prices? Does Toyeast (sp?) have a store front address?
The impossible just takes a little longerBack emf… hrmm…
Depending on the actual circuitry of the car… Rolling the car backwards for a very very looonng time when it is discharged could recharge the battery? 😀
Heheh, just kidding… :smiley2:
The impossible just takes a little longerOh, I saw something on the web about the 1m tall Zaku-II. It shoots bb pellets as well right?
I haven’t actually heard about the smaller ones before. But if the robot can walk backwards with reverse current and you are able to squeeze the control board from the BCG into the body, the the robot can walk fowards and back as well…
For steering, If the coils can be fitted into the body a long with a metal weight or a magnetic weight (like a pendulum or something) Set the coils up vertical to the ground, and hang the weight between them, by activating the coils, the weight would move to one side, and if this changes the balance enough, the robot would probably start moving towards that side. (Maybe)
I’m personally not gundam mad, but Macross mad… *lol* I wish you luck in constructing a BCZ
The impossible just takes a little longer.
Oh, I saw something on the web about the 1m tall Zaku-II. It shoots bb pellets as well right?
I haven’t actually heard about the smaller ones before. But if the robot can walk backwards with reverse current and you are able to squeeze the control board from the BCG into the body, the the robot can walk fowards and back as well…
For steering, If the coils can be fitted into the body a long with a metal weight or a magnetic weight (like a pendulum or something) Set the coils up vertical to the ground, and hang the weight between them, by activating the coils, the weight would move to one side, and if this changes the balance enough, the robot would probably start moving towards that side. (Maybe)
I’m personally not gundam mad, but Macross mad… *lol* I wish you luck in constructing a BCZ
The impossible just takes a little longer.
Just for the record… JNH are selling Tx for $10 and I asked the customer service lady if the entire kits could be bought piece meal, She said that they aren’t.
Just send them a cheque or money order and a note saying which frequency
Quote:Isnt this supposed to be in the techo section :smiley2:Oops… hehehhe:D
Quote:The motor is definately not shorted.
A couple of my char-g’s free wheel a bit better than the other’s.
It can depend on how freely the gears rotate.Oh, so I guess its just because my stock gear doesn’t free wheel very well…
Thanks!
Hrmm… Reverse current should spin the motor backward, but because the robot is designed to walk forward, spinning the motor backward does not necessarily mean that the robot will walk backwards…
Is there any info on the web about these things? What is it actually called?
Hrmm… Reverse current should spin the motor backward, but because the robot is designed to walk forward, spinning the motor backward does not necessarily mean that the robot will walk backwards…
Is there any info on the web about these things? What is it actually called?
Hi nsx,
How does the robot walk? Does it have rollers on the bottom of the feet and just skates along? or do the knees bend and lift with every step?
Also is it remote controlled? Or does it just keep moving forward?
Hi nsx,
How does the robot walk? Does it have rollers on the bottom of the feet and just skates along? or do the knees bend and lift with every step?
Also is it remote controlled? Or does it just keep moving forward?
micro Amps: You are a fount of knowledge. Thank you for all your help. (btw, I’ve heard that story about the poor guy who charged his bit for 5+ mins at 3 volts and melted his bit.)
I probably won’t be able to get around to doing some experiments for a while… I’m back at work already so getting the time to do this is an issue…
Impreza, that pit is starting to sound really good… if only I had the time and skills.
Impreza, sounds like quite a bit of work involved… I was actually thinking something along the lines of using some non insulated wire strung across two nails or screws as each rail and just adjust the height of both rails above the track surface. This added to the solder contact blobs on the car would allow you to drive on, drive off. But gotta be careful of stray pieces of metal shorting the wires this way tho.
Thanks for the extremely detailed notes on batteries micro Amps!
I guess that I was thinking too big for what I’d be able to accomplish. I think I’ll be able to come up with a timing circuit for my charger.
Just a thought… (more like another brain fart) IIRC As long as the battery isn’t generating heat it is still capable of storing charge.
If I pull a spare NiCad from a K.I.T. set and do some experimenting, say set a 1 minute charge, then start playing with voltages and currents to see which would just make the battery warm, then back off an arbitary amount on the voltage and current, and then I’d be close enough to peak charge… right?
If I could secure a few NiMH and do the same thing? When I have the money and time to invest in this…
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