jamiekulhanek
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Top speed is around 45-50km/h i think.
Which is plenty fast enough on the BMX track near my house.
Over the big doubles the thing gets a good 5′ of air, and lands great! Surprised how much grip it has for a 2wd buggy.
I covered the bottom of the alloy chassis with about 3 layers of fibreglass reinforced tape….stops the scratches.
Also roughened up the calipers, now the brakes work great, especially on grass.
5% nitro seems to be fine….might try 10%.
Well i got my car, and have just finished breaking it in…….as it’s my first Nitro car, i have found pros n cons of electric vs. nitro.
-Electric is quiet and has much more torque and bottom end power and torque. But of course the low run times and charging packs sucks.
-Nitro…noisy, messy and has no bottom end power, you gotta rev the shit outta these to do any powerslides etc. (nova rossi and other high performance engines have way more response)
Though i am only running 5% nitro. Also it’s just fill n go, but costs a bit to run.With my kit, i have learned alot already…..driving the hopper is great training, this new thing is so much easier to drive! Does nice tabletop jumps (~1 metre no probs) and is much more stable (better suspension, wider track).
As is, on a nice flat surface, i think my hopper would whip my nitro buggy, but tuning and high nitro fuel should help.
The body is…..well….they could have made it a different shape….it looks outdated.
Well i got my car, and have just finished breaking it in…….as it’s my first Nitro car, i have found pros n cons of electric vs. nitro.
-Electric is quiet and has much more torque and bottom end power and torque. But of course the low run times and charging packs sucks.
-Nitro…noisy, messy and has no bottom end power, you gotta rev the shit outta these to do any powerslides etc. (nova rossi and other high performance engines have way more response)
Though i am only running 5% nitro. Also it’s just fill n go, but costs a bit to run.With my kit, i have learned alot already…..driving the hopper is great training, this new thing is so much easier to drive! Does nice tabletop jumps (~1 metre no probs) and is much more stable (better suspension, wider track).
As is, on a nice flat surface, i think my hopper would whip my nitro buggy, but tuning and high nitro fuel should help.
The body is…..well….they could have made it a different shape….it looks outdated.
Damn wanted to race ya next weekend!
Damn wanted to race ya next weekend!
Well said man.
Towerhobbies have discontinued them!
Towerhobbies have discontinued them!
Dude ph2t is correctblackeye:
They don’t HAVE them!
They don’t HAVE them!
Yeah i wouldnt normally be caught dead down here, but i cant afford to move.
I was thinking of that.
I was thinking of that.
Quote:Hey James…Do you really care to extend the engine life??
If you do & got some spare time, before you even 1st start the engine…
1) take out & pull the new engine apart.
(if there’s no ‘key’ pin, make sure you mark the original position of the piston liner you can replace it right etc. Don’t lose the shims under the head.)
2) make sure there’s no metal filings inside remaining from the manufacturing; sometimes it happens
3) reset the carb to “factory starting” as per manual
4) reassemble the engine using LOTS of oil on everything that moves. (I just use motor oil.)
5) don’t forget to loctite the screws that hold the engine to the car – or they will shake loose.
(don’t bother loctiting the head & manifold screws, just crank them down tight. Heat kills loctite anyway :blush:)
Now when you crank it up 1st time, you’re at least 100% certain that all moving parts are oiled, not running dry.
And yes, all that oil you’ve put in will find its way out via the tailpipe… so don’t run your car in over your mum’s best carpet. :smiley2:
I don’t think i will go THAT far. Id probably wreck it if i did that.
I need BB’s for this car….and a TUNED exhaust!
Quote:Hey James…Do you really care to extend the engine life??
If you do & got some spare time, before you even 1st start the engine…
1) take out & pull the new engine apart.
(if there’s no ‘key’ pin, make sure you mark the original position of the piston liner you can replace it right etc. Don’t lose the shims under the head.)
2) make sure there’s no metal filings inside remaining from the manufacturing; sometimes it happens
3) reset the carb to “factory starting” as per manual
4) reassemble the engine using LOTS of oil on everything that moves. (I just use motor oil.)
5) don’t forget to loctite the screws that hold the engine to the car – or they will shake loose.
(don’t bother loctiting the head & manifold screws, just crank them down tight. Heat kills loctite anyway :blush:)
Now when you crank it up 1st time, you’re at least 100% certain that all moving parts are oiled, not running dry.
And yes, all that oil you’ve put in will find its way out via the tailpipe… so don’t run your car in over your mum’s best carpet. :smiley2:
I don’t think i will go THAT far. Id probably wreck it if i did that.
I need BB’s for this car….and a TUNED exhaust!
Swarms of locusts are really quite rare down here, ive never seen one before.
I work at McDonalds (im a 17 y.o. student so it’s ok!) and the coffee comes from the USA and is vile. The McCafe coffee is a step up from it but still….i am a fussy bugger.
Quote:Ithink that’s more of an explosion than skinning and dicing Jamie… stiill pretty amusing, even if for the wrong reasons. We have a similar one here at work in which a pigeon gets k.o.ed by a pitcher at a US baseball game… thing disappears in a cloud of feathers…Take a big cage of bunnies to Bathurst, and let them out just after the bend in conrod straight…..hehe.
I saw that pigeon video, very amusing.
Power usage (in W) divided by 2, because brushed motors are around 50% eficient.
No ROOM for a heatsink, and besides, i am very happy with the motor it has, beats most 1/10 cars even below 20t!
Power usage (in W) divided by 2, because brushed motors are around 50% eficient.
No ROOM for a heatsink, and besides, i am very happy with the motor it has, beats most 1/10 cars even below 20t!
I figured that would happen, so bugger it. I have another idea to make it a LOCKER….
I figured that would happen, so bugger it. I have another idea to make it a LOCKER….
Quote:Kyosho should give one… not the best, but better than nuttin’.Bought any spare glow plugs?? 🙂
How much did postage come to on that?
ps: for the receiver DON’T feed it anything less than 6V, it must have 6V. If you’re using rechargeables you must build a 5-cell pack. If you’re using 4xAAs, stick to good alkalines (& wrap some tape around the 4AA batt holder).
One step ahead, ive bought some O.S. plugs, the guy at my LHS said that the first plug won’t last anywhere near as long as because the running in process wrecks them (so he says).
He said that for the first 2 tanks, you leave it idling(adjust to a high idle), up on blocks to eliminate clutch wear.
Then another 5 tanks driving around slowly with the body off.
Then the rest of the bottle, driving the car slightly harder each tank. Then the car is ready for hard driving and higher nitro % fuel.Is this correct?
Postage ehblackeye:, i did buy a few things for the MR01 and for the Ultima RB, the package was around 5kg, and i got it express posted…heck there was $15 difference between postage rates, and i am impatient!
Batteries…..5 cell NiMH pack i reckon!
Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 24 March 2004 11:17:20
Quote:Kyosho should give one… not the best, but better than nuttin’.Bought any spare glow plugs?? 🙂
How much did postage come to on that?
ps: for the receiver DON’T feed it anything less than 6V, it must have 6V. If you’re using rechargeables you must build a 5-cell pack. If you’re using 4xAAs, stick to good alkalines (& wrap some tape around the 4AA batt holder).
One step ahead, ive bought some O.S. plugs, the guy at my LHS said that the first plug won’t last anywhere near as long as because the running in process wrecks them (so he says).
He said that for the first 2 tanks, you leave it idling(adjust to a high idle), up on blocks to eliminate clutch wear.
Then another 5 tanks driving around slowly with the body off.
Then the rest of the bottle, driving the car slightly harder each tank. Then the car is ready for hard driving and higher nitro % fuel.Is this correct?
Postage ehblackeye:, i did buy a few things for the MR01 and for the Ultima RB, the package was around 5kg, and i got it express posted…heck there was $15 difference between postage rates, and i am impatient!
Batteries…..5 cell NiMH pack i reckon!
Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 24 March 2004 11:17:20
Ever seen a bunny being skinned/diced/minced?
Have a look at this link, very amusing.
-
AuthorPosts
