jamiekulhanek

[jamiekulhanek]

I’ve had a picooZ for a few months now.

Wonderful little machine, well worth the $50 or so I paid for it. It can be flown by any idiot, but yet is still stacks of fun to play with.

But it wasn’t long before the modding bug hit, so I installed a carbon fibre mainshaft, teeny weeny little 3mmx1mmx1mm ball bearings (have to be seen to be believed), a 60 mah lipo (weighs the same as the original and has higher discharge voltage), lightened and customised airframe, lightened pcb (desoldered excess solder), removed all stickers and gear covers and anything not needed, balanced the main and tail rotors, and gave both motors a good oiling.

[jamiekulhanek]

Wow, crazy year Aaron!

I haven’t been around here much lately, but I’m still madly in love with R/C cars, boats, planes and helis, and I’ve just started playing with my bits and digi-q’s and my other misc small stuff. Forgot how fun it was…

[jamiekulhanek]

Well, those pads were the problemo, so I changed them and now have a screaming single cell machine. Can’t wait for my Lipo to arrive!

Next FET mod… I received a booster BCG (LXX Perfection) from betty.k which was dual celled and had a BIFF turbo. It was a wickedly fast little truck (hummer body, jacked up with a rear spring monoshock and H plate, front springs and patented betty.k lego wheels. This thing even had front and rear lights that were controlled by the 3rd channel!
Anyway I left it on charge and it killed the batteries, so I salvaged what I could.

I am putting this PCB in a project plane I’m building, because I thought the 2 speed would give a nice “cruise/climb” control. The biff weighed in at 0.65g which was just too heavy so it had to go, the DC-DC circuit (diode, electrolytic cap, IC, Inductor) was also removed to save weight as on anything over 2.5v it’s not needed.

Anyway, just wondering if anybody has FET modded a booster, and how it went.

[jamiekulhanek]

Well i did it exact to the pics, and it didnt work, i’m presuming flip means flip the FET over and bend the legs down? Cause that’s what I did.

Jesus i hope I didnt just fry $12 worth of FETs…

Regarding the flipped FETs, the leg that is attached to the jumper wire, i’m guessing that is NOT soldered to the pcb yeah? Think this might be my problemo.

[jamiekulhanek]

I just sifted through my micro gear and found a hummer body with lights (betty.k’s work), a half cannibalised ZZSE, a Mini Z PCB, some KIT Racer gears…I think I might try this one.

Good work dood!

[jamiekulhanek]

Obviously i’ve done something wrong then, I just replaced the 2 motor drive FETs with 2502’s. I can’t find a tutorial anywhere on what to do, and it’s been so long since i’ve actually been involved in electronics that I couldn’t figure it out on my own.

Can i get some help please?

Thanks

[jamiekulhanek]

Bit gutted about the N20 motor, doesn’t look like a very mod friendly motor.

But then again, looking at the motor mount plate it wouldn’t be hard to fit a 130 motor in…and a lipo.

You know you’ve lost the plot when you start mentally modifying something that hasn’t even been released to us toy hungry hippies…

Good thing about this truck is the price of replacement parts.

[jamiekulhanek]

Just a thought.

Bunnings sell fibreglass cloth and resing etc.

I’m sure you could make sheets with it.

I like it because it looks juuuusssst like CF except it’s white. Very sexy.

I’ve used PCB for making brackets and parts, very easy to work with if you have a scrollsaw.

[jamiekulhanek]

Hmmm

I bit the bullet and ordered 10 2502’s from RS, at around $2.80 each once posted I thought it was a complete jib.

Anyway, I did the FET mod on a practically brand new working BIT chassis, cycled the NiCd on my charger and charged it up to a healthy 54mAh.

I removed the stock FETs, cleaned and tinned the pads, then proceeded to mount the new 2502’s.

At no time did I apply heat for more than 1.5 seconds, and after every joint I waited 5-10 seconds to allow any heat to dissipate. I then went over every joint so I knew there wasn’t a chance of a dry joint.

I put her back together, and…nothing. I changed the motor to a 1.6 (from 3.0) and all I could get was the motor ticking over slowly, slightly faster in reverse.

Thinking I must have applied to much heat to the FETs, I removed them and put on a fresh pair of 2502’s taking more care than before.

And again, the exact same problem.

What in the name of blue f*ck is going on!!! LOL

[jamiekulhanek]

betty.k,

I’m assuming you’d know about this anyway, but here we go…

CF is probably not the answer for toughening up basher vehicles, as it is so stiff and brittle it will quite easily shatter/break on impact. Soft nylon/FRP is the most durable material as it flexes to absorb shock.

However if you are building a race vehicle, CF’s rigidity will help handling and take a bit of weight off…if you are a good driver.

If not, nothing looks sexier than a chassis decked out with CF and anodized alloy :beer: .

[jamiekulhanek]

Dangerous Dave wrote:

aww I only got about 4 FETs left, but they are reserved for my ZZSE 🙁

Has anyone here done the DC mod to a ZZSE?? was it worth it?

ZZSE’s come DC’d from the factory, I think the only way of getting higher voltage is with Li-Po’s.

[jamiekulhanek]

Dave, I was hoping somebody here might have some leftovers, specifically the names you just reeled off.

Booster gear seems to be a like hen’s teeth these days, sadly. Wasn’t long ago when they cost virtually nothing to buy, now everybody wants the again.

[jamiekulhanek]

Word on the street is that these babies use ‘130’ sized motors, or Mini Z/I Waver/Firelap donks. Can’t wait to see one of these babies with a Plasma style motor, Li-Po’s and oil shocks all round 😀

[jamiekulhanek]

I am building a small 10 gram indoor plane (50cm wingspan) using an LXX perfection PCB. Does anybody have any leftover FETs they would like to sell?

Thanks

[jamiekulhanek]

Crikey! Good to hear from you Wills.

Melb trip was as haphazard as it gets, but at the end of the week I had exactly what I wanted, and a much, much lighter wallet 😮 .

I will have to come over for a 100% R/C oriented trip, me thinks. Will have to meet up with a few ausmicrons.

[jamiekulhanek]

z-beam wrote:

first the croc hunter, now brocky!

what a freakin week for australia… whos next, john howard? (i wish lol)…

Scary thing is quite a few people have said John Howard is next…

[jamiekulhanek]

Had a look A, not quite what i’m after, i’m more into the Motard thing, and am after a Yamaha WR 250F ’03 and onwards.

[jamiekulhanek]

Mudding is great fun! But cleanup just sucks…

[jamiekulhanek]

Mudding is great fun! But cleanup just sucks…

[jamiekulhanek]

WOW!!! Very cool dude!

I got me one of these cameras off ebay for $36aud shipped, intended it for my surveillance helicopter or a r/c car bash cam. I figured for the price it wouldn’t be the end the world if it got smooshed against a tree or something.

Keep up the good work dude, any pretty ladies living in your street?

[jamiekulhanek]

@oldtamiyaphile]They are acutally 1/28 scale, which makes them the same size as an Epoch, give or take )[/QUOTE wrote:

I was under the impression that epoch’s were 1:43 scale…

[jamiekulhanek]

jollyboss wrote:

got it!
so using a couple of li-ions at 7,2V…
…:eek::eek::eek:

…means lots of broken stuff :rocket:

[jamiekulhanek]

Aye, the good ol’ days!

I must be old because there’s nobody that I can’t remember :smiley8:

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

peteWah wrote:

99kph on a speed checker with 4 cells, Beat That :p A 01 with 2×4 stack of 7317 ‘s with a iWaver X speed pro which has the spiral armature in it which is a fatboy armature me thinks…. We tested this motor on a Much More motor thingy and it clocked out at over 60.000 rpm and im not sure on the exact figures that go with it….

pics/video/info???

[jamiekulhanek]

good stuff guys, now grab some FETs and lipo s!!

[Author]

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