klims

[klims]

wow. who ever thought uni would be useful! thanks for the responce BludyYank. i guess i really should have been paying attention at uni last year. that all sounds like stuff i should know.

Typically the field winding will be placed in series (series wound) with the armature winding to get a high torque low speed motor, in parallel (shunt wound) with the armature to get a high speed low torque motor, or to have a winding partly in parallel, and partly in series (compound wound) for a balance that gives steady speed over a range of loads. Further reductions in field current (less winds) gain higher speed but correspondingly lower torque, called “weak field” operation.

this is just general information right? from what i remember this is not how the 130 class motors(mini z) are set up. what configuration(s) are they?

[klims]

i did a few tests on my batteries and found that the vapex had a max discharge of 3.3A and the Sanyo had 3.6A. considering i paid 6 bucks for the vapex and 20 bucks for the sanyo’s i would say its definately not worth it. from what i understand the sanyo are considered as the best, but given the results can anyone tell me a reason why i wouldnt buy the cheaper ones, or some other ones that im not aware offor that matter?

[klims]

by changing the spur gear you change the gear ratio between the gear on the motor and the drive gear. a bigger spur gear (smaller ratio) mean better top speed but less acceleration and a smaller spur gear (larger ratio) means better acceleration. just like in your car 1st gear will give you great acceleration, but crap top end whereas 5th gear will be opposite. also due to the higher load on the motor with the larger spur gear it tends to drain the batteries quicker.

[klims]

ok that sounds right. what type of motors are you guys running that would draw 5A!? i have an xspeed pro motor and havnt noticed any difference in acceleration between my no name brand and my new sanyo batteries, altough the no names get way hotter. so my question now is where do i get 800/850mAh cells considering that all new cells are marketed with higher and higher capacities?

[klims]

haha this is very true. unfortunately even 1:10 is considered “childs play” out here. infact even anything that is R/C! when will these people learn?!

[klims]

i wont believe that there is no one out north who takes interest in mini z! anyone even dabble in the world of R/C?

[klims]

wow. i understood all that. 10c is a really high discharge rate. is that the discharge rate of the 800 mAh sanyo or was it just an example. i’ve bought some AAA off ebay and they have a discharge rate of 3A and internal resistance of 35 ohm. is that decent by comparison? what are the best you guys have?

[klims]

can someone please explain how a higher mAh battery with a greater discharge rate would provide less punch then a lower mAh battery, as stated by ph2t. i really dont understand that one

[klims]

wow i had no idea that internal resistance and the mAh rating were directly related. i would have thought it was something to do with the quality of the battery. can that be said for all brands, and how much of a difference is there really? is it noticable to the untrained eye?

[klims]

no way. i guess i will have to wait till next time. i wont believe that i am the only person with a mini z in the north. i get the feeling that if kyosho released a VL with an external turbo there will be heaps of interest…

[klims]

sounds good. if you guys get together some time i would definately be interested. until then if there is someone out there from the north side dont be shy to say hello

[klims]

i’ve been using VAPEX 1000mah batteries i bought off ebay and they have been working fine, and they where cheap too! i must admit they ran a whole lot better before the fet upgrade. when my car had not fet upgrade they would run sweet then die off in the last minute. now with the upgrade i can notice a difference in about the last 5 minutes. how does this compare to the sanyo’s? im thinking of buying a set.

[klims]

that place in templestowe is right on my way to work! its not even far. how often do you guys get together? what do you normally race there? electric or nitro?

[klims]

thanks for that Ogier. might give a pack a shot and see how i go. if anyone else has some experience with this product or knows of something similar available locally please let me know.

[klims]

so if you dont mind me asking bety.k which kit would you recommend and how much did you pay all up including shipping?

[klims]

yeah its been a great help. will save me days of trial and error. that plastex stuff looks good. do i need to buy it online or is it available in shops? i cant be bothered shopping around and by the sounds of it you have done all the hard work betty.k!

[klims]

hey rcs2die4 whats CA glue? so you just put a dot on top so that it doesnt actually drop in, then screw it in? and why not all the way? does this end up stripping the newly created thread?

[klims]

yeah its a bit like that. i also just installed a spider in my mr02. for anyone who is a newbie to this like me, i suggest you are very careful when soldering the green wire to the tab. while i was doing mine the tab came unstuck from the board and broke off, only leaving the mircoscopic track behind which is covered by the green stuff. let me just say that its not the position you want to be in. anywho it was well worth the effort. i cant belive the performance! thanks for all the help guys

[klims]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA you guys are gonna laugh so badly when you find out why it wasnt working. being the 3rd year engineering student that i am with no practical experience, i forgot to plug in the frequency crystal when testing, and so was getting no response from my remote control. what an idot!

[klims]

on another note does anyone know how robust these little fets are? when soldering them with my trusty $7 warehouse soldering iron i was wondering if i could possible be cooking them. does anyone have any experience with this?

[klims]

thanks for that. i might just have a play around with the steering wires. the ones on my board are all on the right hand side, but i guess since the red and balck are together thats a start!

[klims]

thanks for all the info guys. im still having trouble understanding which side the dot should be on, so i have edited the picture i put up with a red arrow showing the spot where the dot is. my issue is that the original fet had the dot in the middle of the fet but toward one side, not in a corner like the new ones. from what aaron said about it facing away from the motor terminals, would it be safe to say that i am wrong?

[klims]

PHEW!!!!!! thats a relief. because i was looking at the bridge and it would seem that it is in the deeper layers of the board, which would mean that i had only melted the top layer green stuff to reveal the bridge. just one more question, what does that dot on my fet mean and which side should it be on? thanks for your help once again betty.k!

[klims]

turns out there were some offices that were completed but the lecturers hadnt moved in yet, so we hijacked one and set up shop.

[klims]

hey guys. sorry its taken me so long to get some pictures. i gave up and ended up getting the ones from my phone. i have some vids too but not sure how to post them. its not the prettiest beast in the world, but it worked… not very well but it worked.

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