klims
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I had exactly the same issue at one stage. Fixed it by putting resistors in series with motor to reduce the amount of current it was getting. I started with 10ohm and kept adding till it was working properly.
The resistor that is on the servo wires was already there when the servo was pulled apart.
Do you know for sure that the hitec servo uses a 5k pot? Because if not this may also be your issueCheck this motor out:
http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?products_id=734The best bit it is the 2mm shaft!
Mine just came in today. Its not exactly as it looks in the photo. The main difference is that the can is flat front and back. This is a bit annoying because the motor doesn’t slide into the motor mount recess like ph2t’s first motor.I mounted it in my RM setup and the motor just barely touches the left wheel. One shim on that side fixed it.
Haven’t had a chance to run the motor in my setup yet. Fried my mamba the other day :-/ Once I get it all working again I’ll post some more info.
Is there much demand for external turbos these days?
I was thinking about getting back into making turbos again today actually.
I’ve been out of the game for a while now, but back in the day I made my own external turbo. Not as good as the Nelly but it it handled my lipo setup with PN Anima no problems.Heck yes I remember those! I always wished I had one.
I’m pretty sure your right on the name and make. I think it was called a Cobra. They were sweet. I doubt you would be able to find one these days. If I remember correctly they were made about 10-12 years ago…So I’m not the only 240Z fan???
I did a die cast conversion once. It drove like crap. Totally not worth the effort!Looking forward to seeing what you come up with Pork_Hunt!
How did this go for you Ephect? I got my UBEC in a few days ago and it looks way too big to fit on a miniz. Did you buy the same one I posted a link of?
not a problem. im looking forward to seeing how your gonna get the sucker to fit!
im not sure how well it would work given the space restrictions, but a UBEC would definitely do the trick. ive been using them in other applications and they seem to work well.
i havent seen many 5v regulator ICs around that would be able to handle the current draw you needill be back mid december, so i have a few weeks in the states yet.
to anyone thinking of studying abroad, think twice before you go to America!! the workload is sh!tloads more than i got back home.
yeah sure mate what did you have in mind? i havent really thought about the process, so let me know if you had any suggestions
sweet! looks like a pretty comprehensive site for mini-z.
I’ve actually ordered a Venom GPV-1 while ive been here. been waiting for over a month on ‘pre-order’. they keep telling me they are expecting the order to come in next week. what pains in the arses. im definitely looking into getting a whole heap of stuff to play with
what scale are these machines?
your looking for something with the same pin configuration as the original mosfets on the board. its unlikely that the originals were dual channel. you’ll be able to tell by following the tracks on the pcb. usually there is a single thin track leading to pin 4 on the mosfet, which is the gate. if there is a single gate, then it is a single channel. 2 gates means 2 channel.
the specs your looking for are lowest internal resistance and the highest amp rating. also make sure you get one that will operate at the voltages you need it to.
i’ve been to that track, thats some massive air! did the car go out of range or something? for some reason my lipo powered 02 went out of range on that track heading in the opposite direction down the straight… plowed straight into the wood barrier. not a pretty sight.
thats such a weak story mate. have you broken any h-plates in a head on collision? now thats when you know it was serious
was thrashing my mr02 around at the local factories when i smacked into one of the reflectors in the road at full speed(~40km/h). got about 1m air. it was such a fluke. if i tried to i don’t think id be able to do it again. completely mangled the alloy steering knuckles and deformed the chassis.
the PCB still needs power
all the characteristics you will ever need are clearly laid out in the manufacturers datasheets of the mosfets.
just keep in mind that because you are running a stack and not an external turbo you run the risk of frying the tracks on the stock board under high currents.
given 3 resistors, R1 R2 and R3, connected in parallel the total resistance, Rt, follows the equation
1/Rt=1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3
if you have a 2×2 stack of 50 ohm FETs the effective resistance would be
1/Rt = 1/50 + 1/50
1/Rt = 2/50
Rt = 25 Ohmhope this helps!
thats more like it. thanks cavo!
do you coat the balsa in anything? i’ve tried something similar in the past and had trouble with balsa fibers getting stuck to the plastic and making it look crap.
thanks,
Andrew.sorry Cavo but i found that impossible to follow. maybe you could neaten it up by putting it into steps. and some pictures would be great!
wow the F14 is REALLY impressive. is something like that even capable of flying? if you don’t mind me asking Cavo, how old are you?
nice work Cavo :topstuff:
can you tell me a little more about the molded plastic canopy? i’m very interested to know in greater detail how you did that. is there maybe an online tutorial or something?
the material graphite is composed of carbon atoms, but is not carbon fiber
whats the second picture? is that the “cyclon fighter”? can something like that even fly!?
i’ve seen sparks flying from the bottom of my mini-z on concrete at night.i dont think i ever i want see it again.
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