klims
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really? mine lasted ages! someone told me they have problems with QC. i guess they were right.
as for the lipos, for me its all about the accelleration. nothing beats lipos for that. if you dont wanna be going fast just gear it down. but be warned, you’ll never look back 😉
looks like you should have just used a header pin lol
why not jam it in the place where the crystal/switch used to be? seems like a lot of unused real estate.
nice work mate! really impressed with the size of that thing.
are you getting killer long run times?
nanodragon 2 sucks! worst electronics i’ve seen. i guess they would be alright if you drive like a fairy, but on a stock setup its starts to get sluggish after about 5-10 minutes of thrashing around. i friggin burnt my hand on the ESC!!!
bought one of these a little while ago. absolutely love it! insanely cheap i reckon, but like all cheap things its lacking a little in quality. although its taken a fair beating so far and nothing has gone wrong. very quick stock, but battery life is a bit shit at about 10 minutes. i’ve upgraded to a BL 4500rpm/v with a 2200mAH lipo and it absolutely hammers! killer long runtimes too.
yeah dude just on one of the motor wires. yes you can get them that low, but they are pretty hard to find. not likely to get them from your average electronics store.
besides, you’ll probably blow the tracks first…
well you want to check for continuity between the red wire and one of the pins and the black wire and one of the pins. on most multimeters there is a setting in the OHM section that beeps when you touch the probes together. you want to use that one.
i should also mention that you will need to disconnect the motor when doing this and make sure none of the motor, battery wires are touching
i have no idea what package those mosfets are, but there is actually an easy way to check if its p or n chan.
in a p-chan mosfet the current flows from source(S) to drain(D) as can be seen on any data sheet. however the trick is that the source(S) leg on a p-chan MUST be connected to power(+).
in the opposite way in an n-chan mosfet the current flows from drain(D) to source(S) and the source MUST be connected to ground(-).
so if you have a multimeter you will be able to touch the legs on the mosfets and see what is connected to what, and determine which is N and P. oh and there have to be both types because thats how a h-bridge works!
now this is just a guide, but from the picture henal provided it looks like the one on the right is a p-chan and the one on the left is an N-chan, assuming the red and black are power wires and the white and pink are motor.
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hey dangerous dave i think it was you i was giving instructions on how to check mosfet type. this way just occured to me. its way easier:)
that looks awesome mate!
so is this G10 stuff any good? or is it purely for the prototype build? what other materials do you plan to make the chassis from?
4-axis!?!?! wtf is that? can you tilt the base or head or something? i’d love so see some vid of how this CNC works in the 4th axis if you ever get it working.
would be easier to just work out if they are N or P an buy some high quality fets in the TO-220 package
and i remember you saying it 😉
yeah the I-plus is alright, but don’t waste your time. just go all the way and go for a I-pro. MASSIVE power! if i remember correctly they were about 17t. don’t last that long though. i bought 4 at about $7 so it still pays off i guess. also not sure if a stack will cope. i ran it with a spider.
nice work! post up some photos if you can of this bad boy assembled. i’d like to see what the real thing looks like
on a serious note careful not to breath PCB dust in. its carcinogenic!
nice work dangerous dave!
couldn’t help but notice that the version for sale is not the one with the servo unit for steering that plugs into the body electronics. i thought that the nanoracer was the model with the steering servo unit? if its not which one is it???
the chassis is exactly the same!
only difference i can tell from the pictures is the tie rods look a little different and the pro-pulse has a bumper, and the shocks too.what do the insude of the wheels look like? i mean how is the power transferred to the wheels? is it a hex nut or something else?
August 28, 2007 at 2:39 am in reply to: how do i tell the difference between a car and plane ESC? #60978yeah, i’ve worked out the forward reverse part. just wondering if there was a way to tell before i buy them. most online shops dont have the best descriptions
this is weird…. ended up not going for the pro-pulse but some cheap china knock off of a buggy. check it out. look familiar at all?????
so in theory this machine could route PCB’s too… interesting.
looks like a pretty sweet machine.
so does it take Rhinoceros files straight or is there a whole lot of dicking around required? looks like it would come in handy to reproduce all those broken RC partsAugust 17, 2007 at 6:23 am in reply to: Show us ur work area. i’ll show u mine if u show me urs.lol #60956wow thats almost as messy as mine betty.k, but i think by far i have the biggest dump of a desk.
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even got some stuff underneath.
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it used to be my study area once upon a time (there are uni books under that somewhere) but then i got a 1 year internship so the studying stopped and the buying or crap begun…
looking at relocating my crap now as i’m back at uni. once i’m done with my killer geek pad i’ll let you guys have a peek;)
have you tried to use the transmitter on any other cars? i tried to use mine on my micro-t but noticed significantly lower range. strange…
how much did you pay for it? do you know is they make chassis versions?
yeah unfortunately its something we have to put up with every day:(
when i leave in the morning i make sure i have a t-shirt, jacket and umbrella, and on the odd occasion sunnies, just to make sure i’m covered. you’ll get used to it after a while;)
yep as you can see in the photos there is a single thin track going to pin 4, the gate. if you measure that voltage your set.
just for reference, those chips are an S-08 package
considering what PH2T told ya 1y ago they may be Si4421DY mosfets, meaning they are N-chan. not sure how your ESC works but i’m thinking there should be a h-bridge in there.
you confuse when you say “some have”… how many are there? maybe a photo would help.
personally i would use my multimeter to find out exactly what they are, n or p, and take it from there.
the ( . ) you included in the description on the mosfet tells you which is pin1.
open this link and click on any one of the data sheets. you will see the ( . ) you were looking at on the picture. so now that you know what it looks like and you have the pin configurations here is how you check whether the mosfets are n or p chan.
as seen in the pin layout in the data sheet, pins 1-3 and 5-8 are connected together inside the mosfet, leaving pin 4 on its own. if you look at the track layout on the board of your ESC you should see something to that effect. if your lucky they might even be bridged just as you would when doing a stack. this is just a check to make sure your looking at the right pin, pin 4.
now that you know which pin 4 is, you can measure its voltage with respect to ground. pin 4 is the activator pin that tells the mosfet to either open of close the connection from one side to the other, source (S) to drain (D), pins 1-3 and 5-8.
so now grab a pen, turn the ESC on and in the neutral position measure and record the gate voltages of each of the mosfets. be very careful not to bridge any of the pins while doing this. you could fry the mosfet. better yet see if you can follow the track to another component like a resistor or something that you are less likely to fry.
now that you have measured and recorded the gate voltages at neutral, do the same with the trigger in the full forward position and again in the full reverse position
oh i should also mention that the esc only needs to be hooked up to power, not the motor.
how was that? do you follow?
Andrew.
first off 4420 doesnt really mean much on its own. usually there is something like IRF7201 written on top in the setup
I*R P537H
4V0P
F7201meaning that IR(international rectifier) is the manufacturer and F7201 is the part number. when you google “IRF7201 datasheet” and open the datasheet it will tell you all you need to know about the mosfets. ie: n-chan or p-chan.
with this info you can select a mosfet that will suit you needs/budget.if all that is written on the mosfet is 4420 then it may be a little more difficult. i’ve seen it similar on some elcheapo ESC’s before. your gonna need to work out whether the blown ones are N or P chan with a multimeter. do you have the skills?
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