mini-g
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man it has been done, will try and find the mag’s they are in.
Quote:Quote:glad it all worked out for you, it looks pretty damn good. Cant wait to help rub some off again…:smiley2::D. Glad you and betty found my tips useful…:)LOL, took it for a run on the street, hit a small tree branch and did four to five somersaults in the air before landing and sliding another 6 metres on the ground. It’s all scratched up and has a hole in the roof from impact.
Merc is absolutely right about these Tamiya shells, they’re very fragile ! Tamiya radials have turned to slicks…
Looks like I’ve got to get another shell soon…
Didn’t make it up to Castle hill on Friday night… Work colleague lent me 5 xbox games and I couldn’t control myself and had to play.
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hey kev, you think slicks are bad!!!! mine has the foam coming through…..and after saying hello to a netball post the crack in my bod has become a hugh tear. got to love them though:D
na man they are 1/10th scale, front wheel drive just like the real thing and about as much fun to drive.
he used tamiya metalic purple.
Quote:Looks like I’ve stuffed up applying the decals on my m03 shell, got air bubbles, rips and wrinkles… It’s quite hard applying the front headlights on without any wrinkles for some strange reason. There’s got to be a special technique of some sort. Do they need to be heated up slightly with a hair dryer first ?Oh well, race shell now…
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the hair drier does come in handy for this purpose, so yes.
Quote:Anything AE is usually a rebadged LRP.I think latest basic LRPs are now “AI” in that they don’t need once-off programming… instead you need to “program” it everytime its turned on.
not true, it needs no programing, does it itself. good idea if it works how they say. which being lrp i am sure it will
try thwe caps, also untie your wiring from the top plate, worth a try.
BIG DAVE
Quote:Quote:castle hill raceway has them in stock kev… just pop up on friday night and get one.BIG DAVE
Excellent. Also how much are they ? Kellets have them for $35.
9pm not too late to show up ? Wouldn’t mind checking out the racing as well.
Cheers.
:smiley16:
yeah 9pm will be fine, just in time for the finals. think the mini’s are $35 there too, no more than that. hopr to see you there.
should be there, let’s hope the weather keeps up its side of the bargain!!!!!:D
castle hill raceway has them in stock kev… just pop up on friday night and get one.
BIG DAVE
not needed for your car kev. more for cars with pivit ball suspension. all you need is a camber guage. $10 part.
ok some tracks are starting a 19 turn class, but best would be a 27turn stock, quick enough to put a smile on your face and is raced everywhere.
go the orion…if you just want a faster motor to run up and down the street! if you are planing on racing it then get something else as 21t will be all but usless for racing.
BIG DAVE
how long you had the x-ray???? what version and why you not running it any more???? or is that why will it be the last one you drive??? so do you race merc???? if yes where and what class/es?
so who is going tommorow?????? let me see now…. mini-z, check.tamiya mini, check. TC3 with a 7turn, mmm maybe. ta-04 fully pumped from racing last night, for sure. mini-r and mini giant having a rest this week!!! so who is bringing what???
Quote:cabron fiber is carbon fibre plates woven hence teh purdy paten.. graphite is moulted graphite. its different. the molded stuff conducts electricity and tends to shatterthey both conduct electricity!!!!!and they can both shatter, the carbon more so than the molded graphite!!! but you have to be hitting something pretty hard to do this to either! and prototype parts dont count. the car came out with a three piece, thats all that matters.
all shaft drives have a small amount of torque steer, just goes with it. but when set up right is not a problem. the TC3 has always had a 3 piece shaft! i take it you mean the evo3 had the 1 piece shaft??? the evo4 is 3 piece and seems to have fixed the problems.
Quote:yeah.. AHH TC3.. one of the worst cars i have driven. can some body say torque steer.. or whoope i hit a bump there goes my spur.. needs a fair amount of $$ in a TC3 to kick ass. want a shaftie get teh evo4/pro 4 or make u life easy and wait for the pro 5 (belt).. gonna be a kickass car.. gonnna win the worlds.. mini g check out my sprint if ya want a beltie…ha ha ha….in one quote you contradict yourself!!! evo and pro4 are just coppies of the best!!!!(stick that in your pipe and smoke it!) i have been running TC3’s for years and had none of the problems you mention:shock:didnt have to spend money on it and only done one spur gear and that was from runing it on the totaly wrong surface. same surface that stuck the motor in the alpha!!! was yours a team or RTR????? the team(or any that are kits)are not for inexperienced builders(not that i am saying you are by the way). and dont have to check out your sprint(chuckle) had a pro2 years ago, good car but the x-ray or 415 would be the only cars i would bother looking at.:D dont diss da TC3!!!!!!!! or the TC4:smiley16:
Quote:there are also a touring version of this car (which were not so good.. still arite) also mini-g were did u find out shafties are better.. a shaft car is CRAP for a beginner stripped spur gears and what no make there “lower maintanace” drivetrain more maintainace… unless you know how to shim out the diffs in a shaftie, a belt it ALOT more reliable.. and the belts dont snap and what not as people say they do.. i have had 2 shafties both were adverage compared to my beltsread my first post on this topic merc, my son has hammered the c#@p out of his one and the worst that has happened is a stone getting stuck in the motor! i am not trying to start a belt/shaft war, just going of experience from using the shaft car. belts are fine(looking at a belt car for my next touring car, long live the TC3):) but the shaft driven alpha has been so reliable i have to give it the big thumbs up!!!!!:D:D:D post a pick as soon as you can empire. and good luck with your bargan, hope it all is good:smiley16:
could be the shaft drive version!!!!!! that is even beter:)
my son has had one for a few years now, must say it has been a real fun car. my son has trashed and thrashed it all over the place, only broke one front hub(after about 30 or 40 hits into brick walls) not a pure race car but would have no problem in novice class. can get the electric for about $300 or the nitro for no more than $400 so dont bid more than those prices.
BIG DAVE
ok…i did my first tamiya mini body this way, first hand painted the black guards, tape the roof(this can be tricky due to how it is molded)or you can do it first, you DONT HAVE TO PAINT DARK TO LIGHT EVERY TIME!!!!!! then do your main colour then the roof, or what ever way you feel easiest doing it. 4 or 5 light coats will do for any colour. hope this helps????? prob confused you even more
:D:) hope to see it next sunday.BIG DAVE
man you still having issues with that?????
thought you must have fixed it, try putting all the stock parts back in just to see what happens(if the problem goes away). might be over tonight dude with the iron so will have another look at it if you want.
BIG DAVE
Quote:but what’s he gunna run on my track? They’re too fast for it… lol keep one at more “normal” speeds doods… we need to have one each thats about 25 odd kph…thats it buddy…pure speed is no use on a track. fun to watch go in a straightish line though. had a really fun afternoon yesterday:D
got to do it again soon….
BIG DAVE
man i am on some bad drugs….i was thinking of war hammer… my bad.
still getting in to magic Z. it is ok but all the rules was giving me a head acheblackeye: so learning duel masters to get into the swing of things.
BIG DAVE
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