oldtamiyaphile
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Actually, the PCB is all new. That might make them Fetable.
I just wish the gearboxes accepted regular (TA-0X) ball diffs…
You should know already, but I’ll say it just in case, don’t even think about running a plasma dash without FETs.
Some dogbones just bend, usually as a result of the suspension bottoming out on the dogbone. Engine torque can do it to. HPI and Kyo bones are known for being too weak.
Also look at the TT-01, it’s probably more durable, not to mention that it’s cheaper.
If you want a Tamiya truck, look at the Twin Detonator (4wd and twin motors = :D). I wouldn’t get a Stadium Thunder, it’s just too ‘entry level’. A DT should outrun everything off road, twice the power and all wheel traction, and it’s not super heavy like a Maxx or Clod.
OK then 😀
But, the TG10 gears are really coarse pitch, I can’t imagine striping plastic versions. The TC3 has simular pitch plastic gears, and is one of the most durable cars I own. Unless the Plastic gears are also much finer pitch, I don’t see a problem.
I don’t know how I’ve never managed to break a plastic ended dogbone. I even put some out of an FF-01 into a Kyo Nitro tourer, and they’re still fine.
Then again, I always hear stories floating around about this or that ‘breaking easily’, the only car I’ve got with a bit of a problem with is the HPI NMT (the electric has never broken anything), where the front A arms tend to break in light hits or rough landings. I’ve also heard of stripped gears and the like, but mine’s been pretty well behaived (bent dogbones are to be expected of all HPI and Kyos).
The only all metal ‘bones I’ve seen are on the M chassis’ for some reason… (don’t have a Stadium Raider).
Didn’t Porsche win the Paris-Dakar with the 959? Didn’t the US Hummer Team fail dismally many years later? (As have all of the US Baja/SCORE etc trucks).
[Even a Hyundai Excel will be a Hummer on road]
One thing about buying a “real” off road vehicle is you’ll have to go a long way to find challenging terrain. Rally/Tourers (for me anyway) are great for yard/street use without having to find an empty construction yard.
Quote:There are guys who have converted their EvoIIIs into offroad buggies, but I suspect they’ll soon be having some problems with the diffs.*Suspect*, thanks :p Just the fact that they were sucsessful in running bigger tyres and tackling big jumps without immediate failure tells you the EVO3 drive train is pretty durable. A rally car runs small tyres and doesn’t have the clearance/ travel for off road track jumps.
Quote:so Tamiya can sell TB01s (with metal gears) as rally cars.Again I have to take exception to the idea that you need metal gears to go off road. 90% of off roaders have only a metal idler gear, some not even that. If you’ve owned a Manta Ray (chances are you have), you’ll know that the alu idler is the first to go (well, after the pinion), and in fact, the plastic idler from the TA01/2 lasts longer.
Tamiya also use plastic dogdone ends on just about everything, and again, no problems with them cracking. In fact, they’re a good replacement for Kyosho (Nitro included) and HPI’s all metal ‘bones that tend to bend easily. Never broken a plastic ended dogbone.
The stresses on a rally car aren’t that much greater than they are on a tourer. The tyres are the same size, you can’t tackle huge jumps because you’ve only got so much supension clearance and travel, and finally, you have less traction so in that regard at least, drive train loads are lower.
Millions of cars run off road everyday just fine running plastic gears and other critical plastic drive train components.
Quote:Sure you can take a touring car to go rallying, like they do
on the WRC. But don’t expect to have anything left at the end }:)]
… on WRC they rebuild the car just about every stage!!
(even Looks like they bring all new cars to every race!!!?)How is this any different to F1, FIA GT, even NASCAR?
Quote:If you run offroad tyres on tarmac yes your rubber spikes
will disappear faster than icecubes in Hades.Then you’re left with flat rubber, which probably grips better
than spikes on tarmac… but then they’ll be useless offroad.Best to decide what exactly you want.
Exactly why Tamiya make rally blocks.
I guess if the gears MUST last the life of the car, then only buy one that has all metal gears, otherwise, buy what ever you like best and just have fun. Don’t let anyone tell you you can’t take your car off road just because it has plastic gears.
Even unsealed belt drives, how many years did Yokomo and Schumacher win race after race with completely unseal belt drive trains? You’ll need to do more maintenance obviously, and given the number of seal or semi seal cars out there, I wouldn’t recommend it, but lets not say it can’t be done.
Quote:EvoIII/TB02 diffs have plastic outdrives & plastic gears, they are built lightweight for electric onroad application only.TB01 was based on TG10, with chunky huge metal diffs so it’ll take the bashing. Tamiya sells option “lightweight” plastic versions and warns you not to use them in a rally or nitro car.
So all off road cars have metal gears? Last I checked Clodbuster had all plastic gears, as does Wild Willy/ Twin Detonator (etc), Manta Ray series etc.
I’ve been running various TA-XX’s off road for years and never so much as lost a tooth, even with 13t motors and monster tyres.
A 540 powered truck will do about 25, a tourer will do over 30.
Quote:so that’s as related to the retail SUV as are the Pajero Evolutions, hehehe.
Pajero Evo is a road car, based on the SWB version. They also take them rallying, and of course, that’s a whole new story.
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 08 April 2004 13:27:10
Plenty of people run touring cars off road, look at the TB-01’s (02 as well I guess), TC3 Rally, HPI rally etc. IMO, rally cars are the best.
Look great, great speed, and can handle grass, low curbs and small jumps fine.
Plenty of people run touring cars off road, look at the TB-01’s (02 as well I guess), TC3 Rally, HPI rally etc. IMO, rally cars are the best.
Look great, great speed, and can handle grass, low curbs and small jumps fine.
I wonder if MRS4 gears diffs might be made to work, guess it would be a custom 1/28 NMRS4 then…
Xmods gears are fairly coarse pitch and seem OK. Maybe a .020.
I wonder if MRS4 gears diffs might be made to work, guess it would be a custom 1/28 NMRS4 then…
Xmods gears are fairly coarse pitch and seem OK. Maybe a .020.
I’ve been thinking the same thing, throttable .049, but in my Xmods since it’s so slow, and then the gears won’t seem so loud :p
I’ve been thinking the same thing, throttable .049, but in my Xmods since it’s so slow, and then the gears won’t seem so loud :p
Those vents (whether you can see them or not) are what prevent all Ni-XX batts from leaking/ exploding during charging. But once they’ve vented, they’re stuffed.
Those vents (whether you can see them or not) are what prevent all Ni-XX batts from leaking/ exploding during charging. But once they’ve vented, they’re stuffed.
….as all good cells should. 10% above the label is normal.
….as all good cells should. 10% above the label is normal.
Looks like a product in development rather than something you can buy. Given that a .075 is equivalent to a 20t 540 (on 6 cells), it certainly would cause a MZ to fly.
Looks like a product in development rather than something you can buy. Given that a .075 is equivalent to a 20t 540 (on 6 cells), it certainly would cause a MZ to fly.
It’s called a set screw, use an allen key.
Threadlock will stop it coming loose (use only Tamiya threadlock). But my Kyosho diffs have stayed put fine without.
It’s called a set screw, use an allen key.
Threadlock will stop it coming loose (use only Tamiya threadlock). But my Kyosho diffs have stayed put fine without.
So, and I may have gotten it wrong again, it’s sealed with hydrogen inside? Essentially, no different to a battery?
Given that a fuel cell produces more electricity than it uses, I guess the easiest way to make it work is to us a battery to get the process going, after that it’s self sustaining. Very interesting regardless.
Who needs a scale 800+ km/h anyway?
Obviously it uses a generator or altenator to provide itself power. It would be really cool if it runs on AC power 🙂
and of course there’s a power limit, even a nuclear reactor has a limit :p
Not much heavier than an Xmods 👿
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