oldtamiyaphile
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
For any meaningful balance, I think you’ll need a ball raced prop balancer. These motors are tiny and any imbalance is likely to be equally tiny.
I didn’t say it couldn’t be super fast, just that there are more suitable vehicles for such speeds. I guess pt2t’s MOL is now at base 1/10 speeds. He’s probably gonna break everything on it before long.
Nah, I just bought one (for my Bro’s Bday but I suspect I’ll get one myself), I’m after info on a 1:1 scale A-40. Imagine a real one chasing your cat! 👿
Bigger tyres can also give you the same effect. The OL has less reduction so you could possibly use one of their gearboxes. You’ve got the wrong vehicle if you want that sort of speed though…
Yup, if I wasn’t trying to get as much 1/32 stuff as possible, I’d get a TLT-1 over a Mini-T of MOL. But in my case, the MOL is 1/32, so I gotta get that next.
Red Dot in WA has the UFO’s for AU$40.
Anyone have a pic of a real A-40? Was there one? A search for ‘Bombardier’ found a bunch of planes, but nothing that looks simular.
Add the cost of the RS options you spoke of at the start of the thread and you are at Kyosho $$$. Mine cost around US$90+ shipping, for which I can get an OL from TE. Add the cost of ‘real’ electronics, and you’re well into 1/10 territory. They weigh a ton and really need Lipos because all that bulk puts too much load into the drive train, now you’re at 1/10 nitro cost (assuming you don’t have a lipo set up already).
If you must have an RSX get an Epoch.
Get an Xmods if you must, but just don’t try to tell me they’re cheap (at least for Aussies who have to get everything mail order, and not from online stores, you have to trouble a friend for the ‘privelage’). Based on the price and what you get, certainly for AU folks, they border on being a rip off.
If I want a heatsink, I have to buy a motor pack (why four motors?) for US$20(?), have someone buy it for me, pay post, so for around AU$40 I have a heatsink. For that I can get an alu motor pod for a OL in my next order from TE, Dinball or eBay.
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 28 April 2004 17:27:01
Buy both and say that blackeye:
My Sisu proves that chassis flex is better than fancy suspension at this scale, works just as well, and a lot less weight.
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 28 April 2004 02:28:47
Seriously, buy an Overland, I haven’t touched my Xmods since. Great fun indoors or out. The XM is an outdoor car due to it’s radius (even with the ‘fix’), but it has less ground clearance than a MR-01. Another problem is the lower kingpin screws tend to get ripped out when running outdoors, I now run without, and occasionally loose a knuckle…
Lots of people to all sorts of mods to them, mods that are far beyond what the car was designed for, and then things start to break all the time.
I put OL tyres on it and it’s a bit better (even with 4wd an OL with locked diff does better off road), but then you need another body, such as one off an OL…
I’d look at the DTM-X4, US$80 at Dinball, then add your electronics and smoke all before you.
Yup, a 20 foot radius is normal with the AWD upgrade :p. Putting the ‘rear’ diff in the front helps.
Yokomo’s 1/24 car was going to run on 300mah 1/2 AAA’s. These are 300 mah too, if they’re the same dia. then chances are they put out enough current. A very rough rule of thumb is dia = peak current, length = capacity.
Does anyone know the Watt rating of a stock Z PCB?
I’ve got a single Lipo (3.6v) project so I’d like to ideally use an Iwaver PCB without FET stack, but I’m hoping to run a Plasma. It’s in a boat, so the instanteneous current will be much lower, hopefully low enough. Don’t really want to buy a whole ‘real’ Z just for the PCB. I could also water cool the FETs. Thoughts?
Aftermarket Clods and A1’s have been running cantilevers for 15 years. But, reading through all the PR BS, I think what makes them unique is they pivot AND twist on their mounts, giving progressive spring rate and damping (as they claim).
Another mildly interesting development is the electronically controlled gearbox with apparently has no mechanical clutches.
Also ‘apparently’ the shocks are ‘maintenance free’. Forgive my BS meter as it goes off the scale.
In the end, it’s still .15 powered, and as a Maxx and Savage owner, I don’t see the big deal. I have been considering the new Losi, but 1/10 Nitro trucks don’t interest me that much these days.
I agree with PB, a monster should be covered in shocks and have live axles front and rear. Show me and independantly sprung 1:1…
I’m sorry to say that Tamiya use amoung the least durable plastics, Evader is toughest. I don’t like Baja Champ because of it’s too short touring car shocks. Just not enough travel for real off roading.
Dirt Thrasher is great, but has a nasty habit of breaking front shock towers (AU$12), you can prolong their life many times by making an alu cross brace, or tracking down a Top Force fibre glass or CF version.
How fast is too fast? and how long until you start buring out motors in 30 seconds?
Jumping off a closet doesn’t really count :p
Well, they are intended for indoors. It would take years to break anything if you stayed inside. Outside though…
Lots of people run Xmods on 6 cells (the equivalent of 2 Lipos), while stock Z FETs can only take 5 cells.
I guess Xmods have better FETs stock, maybe something to do with the fact that they’re aimed at kids that are likely to ‘stall’ the motor.
It has been done on Z’s, but unlike the Xmods, they need FETs to handle the higher voltage. I definately want to Lipo my XM (just got a very nice Lipo charger last week) because it’s just a heavy and slow POS as is. I put OL tyres on it so at least it doesn’t bottom out everywhere anymore.
I’m interested to know the complete specs of this 30mph car.
Get stainless kingpins for a smooth front suspension, otherwise, you’ll find yourself polishing the stock ones every run.
As ye ol’ saying goes, if you have a cash cow, milk it! 😀
The Madforce has upgraded FETs, but I’m still surprised it can handle a PD. I had a plasma running 8.4 volts in a 1/20 odd buggy and man that thing flew! Motor just about caught fire though…
Don’t MR-01 bodies actually fit the MR-02 as well?
You get bearings, X-speed, Oil Shocks, alu nuts, and probably something I’m forgetting. Pretty good value since it’s ~$50 more than a normal one, and the shocks alone cost that. I’m not sure if I like the chrome body, not that it matters.
Yup, same gearbox.
-
AuthorPosts
