oldtamiyaphile
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Quote:I’ve now confirmed that the steering works well and that the RX PCB is getting the 4.8V (exact!) from nelly deluxe.
Why? Is the servo too fast for you? Get too much range? The PCB is designed to handle 6v+, and some people have apparently run on 7.2 without damage.
I just a note, with any micro plane weight is critical. Therefore, I no longer beleive in using ducted fans. They add weight, and any theoretical efficency is more than offset by the extra weight of the fan unit. I would suggest fitting a single pusher prop in that rear mounted jet exhaust. My GWA A10 is now twin brushless pusher, and not only is it lighter, but produces much more thrust than any fan unit is capable of.
DF’s are cool, but more for novelty value at this scale.
I meant to say SPY. It’s just overpriced, overhyped crap IMO, plenty of stories of blown Spys (do they even have thermal shut down?).
A GM V-x or LRP Quantum practically can’t be blown. Some LRP’s even have electronic water protection (which really works :approve:).
GM are clearly better value than Futaba, and my GM’s are happy running 2-3 turns below recommended in most cars.
Any of the GM V-series are great. The small LRP are good too. Just anything but an Atom.
The Tamiya unit is a bit big.
Quote:digi Q F1….He said good.
~$50AU shipped from Toyeast:
Just about unbreakable too. Not a ‘real’ plane, but hey, it’s practically free.
5 channels BK, real helis have 5 channels.
Depending on design, adding forward weight should make it fly forwards.
Sorry folks, FMS is junk (but hey, it is free).
I bought Pre-flight, measurably better, but still junk, really.
You have to spend $300 on Real Flight to get anything that will actually teach you to fly.
About all you can learn on FMS is orientation.
These guys do some freq conversion work:
http://www.vantec.com/applications.htm
and
http://www.phoenixmp.com/articles/rc-systems.htm
It’s a start…no real good info though, I’m sure you know most of that already.
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 04 July 2004 19:01:26
Thanks, I’d would rather not give in to Microsoft style incompatibility yet again. I miss the days when as long as you had the right channel everything worked with everything else.
Iwaver: Works with KT-5 but not KT-2, KT-5 does not have servo reverse so you have to mod the car. Works with 2PL
Mini-Z: Seems to work with everything.
Epoch: Works with KT-2, not 2PL.
As long as you paint your boat and let it dry after a days sailing, it’s fine. Wouldn’t use it on a 1:1 boat, but for our perposes it’s strong, non toxic and easy to work with.
Apparently you can get waterproof PVA now.
My next big warship is going to be mostly built with PVA glue.
Get one of these:
http://www.ghz-link.com/global/product/tc9.html
1cm square!
You could fit several on a Z for different camera angles 😀
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 03 July 2004 20:49:35
Have you got Tin racer electronics handy? If you can build a balsa structure yourself, then it should cost practically nothing. Otherwise look in the toy section for non-R/C plastic boats that can be modded. There are heaps out there, I haven’t bought any myself because none meet my scale/ realism criteria, and if I have to do more than a tiny bit of re-working, may as well start from scratch.
Quote:Proportional ain’t that important, many boats have a one speed only throttle…..its not like you can break traction and spin a boat out!!Propo steering obviously has its benefits…..you could roll a boat at full throttle if you only have non propo steering.
Actually, you can spin a boat. 1:1 tunnel hulls (some times refered to as Formula 1 powerboats) do so a lot. It’s mostly a result of too much steering rather than too much throttle though. But, yes, many of the most powerful R/C boats use no more than an on/off switch for throttle because it’s a lot cheaper than a 28cell ESC.
You really have to tell us what kind of boat you want (ship, scale, sailing, racing etc), where you wish to use it, and go from there.
If you check out my VACII on my site, I’ve only spent $10 so far. The Arno XI plans will be made available at WGu once the model is tested. There may even be a prize for the best interpretation 😉
I think a 400 is going to be too heavy again. A 280-300 would be best. I remember years ago just sitting a 540 in one of those boats and it couldn’t carry the weight. Sure, a 400 is smaller, but not by that much.
OMG what a topic!
Mini Z:
Kamaz
Japanese BusEpochs:
Various 1/32 body conversions
Super Slicks:
Various 1/32 body conversions (+ propo)
Micro Flight:
Get heli airbourne again (nothing really wrong with it, but I just want new electronics [lipo and BL] because the old ones have been canabalised for planesCrashed my Wattage Twin yesterday, fixing as we speak
Just bought Graupner ME 323 Gigant
Boats:
Virgin Atlanic Challenger II (50% done)
Arno XI hydroplane (mechanical prototype 50%)
Final detailing on sailing Junk.
Various bits on the Houseboat still need finishing
R/C Trains:
Kommandowagen German WWII armoured loco.
I agree that a 130 is too small. Build it light (much lighter than the kit, use thinner wood etc) and maybe you might get away with it.
Consider this; the stock motor is a 180, if the ESC can support ~7amps, you could run a Speed 280 and be done with it. Should be easier to find a motor coupling and drive shaft too.
My VAC II is about 600mm long, 250mm beam and runs a 540 on 8 cells, though it is heavier (mostly to support the motor and batts), it’s running a much larger motor on more volts.
My 130 project boat is only ~160mm long! (but running a single lipo).
I really want one to retrieve crashed slot cars 😆
Aussie hobby retail mark up is around 30%. Not all that much really.
I too only have a cheap iron (one game in a free tool set), the biggest problem with cheap irons is that the tips get eaten by solder flux. I think Bunnings wants $30 for Weller tips, so you should see what I’ve been using lately!
I would love a proper set up, but theres always another car, boat or plane that needs Lipos, an ESC or more micro servos…
I need them all for a certain 1/32 utopia…
They had about 200 cars at my local TRU, as well as tuning (motor/gears/hub caps/tyres) and body sets (2 bodies/hub caps).
Merc-Blue, I’m using spare Epoch boards. I got many of my cars from MRCC before the sell out, I recently bought a bunch of cars from techno at wegotu. See the BST section, I bought all the new chassis kits, but he still has some complete sets and used car AFAIK. My Epochs are getting Iwaver boards… The Epoch boards were sadly a little underengineered for the Epoch, but I think they’ll be perfect for the much smaller motored SS’s.
Just put it in a HPI or Yokomo Mini and be done with it 😀
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