oldtamiyaphile
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They are a TRU exclusive, though K-Mart are affiliate in AU so they would be worth a try. Don’t really like the TX, it suffers from ZZ SE like requirement for demented monkey grip. Couldn’t get AAA batteries to fit the charger handle, but the plug is the same size as the Epochs so I just peak charged first time.
Quote:Maybe one of the old HPI shells might be nice.
Especially that VW Combi van… :smiley16:The Frewer Renault Espace F-1 would be an appropriate choice for a BL mini, RWD converted preferably.
Regardless of watt output of the motor, a boat will only do about 1/2 the speed of a car. Since I haven’t seen any (genuine) 80km/h Z’s, I don’t expect your boat to hit 40, especially since it’s really too big for a 130 motor (by about 50%). 40W isn’t all that much, I’ve seen boats slightly larger (~2′ long) running 300+ W motors, and they only manage ~80km/h.
My 8 cell hovercraft only does 30km/h on a speed 400.
My boat is only about 1″ longer than a Z, so it might manage 40km/h, at which speed the slightest ripple will send it into the air.
As for a prop, making your own from brass is the way to go, no one I know of sells props small enough.
I have ten Epochs now :p, not really a comparison to the SS, they are more mini-Mini-Z than oversize ZZ like the SS. SS’s are a fair bit smaller. The larger bodies are close to true 1/43, while the Mini is Epoch sized at around 1/38.
My first SS is already getting a 1/32 body and propo mod.
Nah, they run the 2l 3S-GTE. Air restrictors even out power between it and the 2.7l Skylines (and 3.5 NA NSX’s).
Soon as I got 20k I’m gonna put one in my 928 (more likely my next 928).
I think some ausmicro.com’ers will differ 😯
Did you see the XR6 on Autospeed? 400rwKw on the stock turbo. About as much as a ‘Super’car 😀
But, the ultimate engine would be a 4.7l Toyota Tacoma block (can be bored out to as much as 5.3l), Lexus heads, twin turbos, well over 1000 streetable HP for around $20k. This combo has been known to produce 3000HP in race applications.
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 07 June 2004 14:32:04
Yes, but I’ve reverted back to pencil and paper. It’s a lot quicker for me since I don’t have any CAM machinery anyway.
My OL chassis is about 1/4 done. It’s about an inch longer than stock for this project:
http://www.wegotu.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=1604&forum_id=20
Once that’s done there are MOL, 4wd OL, and possibly a bus chassis to build.
Although I have to say, I don’t think $17 is all that much for any alloy damper mount (not cheap, but not unreasonable either). See how far US$17 gets you in an Aussie hobby shop.
Heh, the Aeroflyte boats are probably a bit for these motors. If you plan on using car electronics the boat should only be at most 50% longer than the car. Still should work though, but I don’t think you’ll see 40km/h. Boats are always going to be a fair amount slower than an equivalent car. Water cooling does solve the overheating problems common with hot winds of 130 motors though.
This is my boat:
http://www.wegotu.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=1645&forum_id=9
Only a little bigger than a Z, and weight is going to be critical (MZ servo is too heavy, single Lipo).
One major problem you can expect with the AF boat is propshaft vibration. Almost bad enough to shake her apart, you’ll probably have to get a much more substantial shaft/tube.
Wet blankets are a result of too much fun the night before :smiley2:
Find me a group buy that worked in the end (nearly all end with just talk), and was worth the effort.
AU$48 is correct, I did put together a big order to save shipping, but the Iwaver was the lightest thing I bought, so since I only averaged shipping cost, it’s actually taking more than it’s fair share of postage.
I just put 14 (which is the number being talked about here) into my cart and they came to AU$51, as per Aarons quote. If I put ONE in my cart, it comes to AU$65, if you order 2 it’s $59.
Best price, I can get is AU$48 landed (for 14).
Now considering that they weigh 1.5kgs (as listed at TE) they’ll cost around AU$10 to post within AU. That’s if the post office don’t apply the cubic volume rule. If they do, it will cost more via the group buy. All this effort so some cheap skate (potentially) can save $7? I mean really, come on.
For now, I really want one for my boat 😀 Should handle 8t or less in a boat nicely.
We should surely have learnt by now that group buys aren’t worth the effort.
My Iwaver cost AU$48 shipped with my 10% discount.
I see people advertising group buys all over the place, come on, give it up already. At best you’ll save a couple of bucks.
I’m just wondering isn’t Nelly’s current draw close to the limit of what the tiny PCB pads can handle?
I wonder if it will handle an 8t motor in a Monster.
Build your own 😀
It’s interesting that people complain about the Mini-X being made of clear plastic, when it’s an option for the Z…
In place of the front diff.
Looking great. If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that doing a custom body is a sure way to get (in this case) Kyosho to do one as well :smiley2:
I’d skip the wall charger idea, there are no power points at the park. I use a SJ Swallow peak charger now, it’s around $120, and runs of a 12v car battery, much more useful at the park.
If you can’t spend that much any wall charger with ~300mah output and 6v will do the trick, you’ll have to fashion your own charging plugs (change them all to Deans micro plugs, which I use on all my micro cars/boats/planes).
You could add bigger batteries but the extra weight will adversly affect performance. The answer for doubling flight time is lipo’s, but that requires the charger mentioned at the top of this post.
…and the Mini-T.
If you just want small scale, you could get a T-Maxx (etc) and fit a Tamiya Mammoth dump truck body. It would be 1/20 scale 😀
I get 20 mins, or close to it, using a real charger. Don’t blame the batteries! It might get a single lipo for 40 min flights.
Remember than anything but Tamiya will destroy plastic, and that includes fumes. Super glue is a plastic friendly alternative.
‘L’ plate is a nice touch 😀
Why would you want a Futaba ESC? Get a nice GM or LRP, or possibly a Hitec HFX (great value around $110 AUD and down to 11t motors).
Well, I’m drawing up plans for a 1/32 scale (these guys boats are 1/72) German WWII Eboot. I start once I get my current boat 90% finished (the VACII) and the Chinese Junk still needs final detailing.
Anyway, it’s getting real working torpedos.
Once the Eboot is 90% done, I’m going to build a submarine, again in 1/32 with working torpedos (maybe vertical launching ICBM’s), haven’t decided on the prototype for that one yet.
TallduDe, I’ve seen some of these boats up close, the work manship on them is quite poor, they just do a rough bog job and she’s ready for battle again. They still look great from a few metres at sea, which is what counts.
That’s cool, but it’s not really a monster now, it is? The tyres are only about a scale 31″ or stock Landcruiser tyre. I just put OL tyres on the stock rims for some outdoor action.
Real monster tyres would kill the drivetrain in no time 🙁
The verdict is I haven’t touched my XM for a long time. OL came and became the 1/28 outdoor car, moving furniture so I can run indoors gets old after a while…
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