oldtamiyaphile
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Thanks for the info. I’ve found that those Powertechs have a short life span, with cells often dying. These were probably duds, as the ones that survived are still OK.
Surprisingly, I also found that the Varta’s have a short life span. My favorite is Energiser Nimh’s, I don’t know about performance (but looking at the graph they’re all pretty close anyway), just going on lifespan.
I think you cant go wrong stocking Micro-T’s 😀
Thanks, I think a stock Epoch would do around 10km/h on the speed checker, so I think that setup would be adequate (a little slower than Epoch is OK too), though since my car is 1/32 scale and fairly heavy it might not accelerate too well.
Since I’m building the transmission myself I want to work out approximate ratios before I build it…
Have you tried one of those heli tail motors? I remember ph2t saying something about them having lots of torque, though they are designed to run on 6-7 cells so speed would be lacking I imagine. Of course a 2p lipo is an option, but I have little room to work with (the batts must be contained within a scale fuel tank).
The new Mini is a pretty big car, and it’s WB is about the same as a 996 Porsche.
Why is it so hard to understand scale?!!??
No typo.
Epochs are called 1/43 scale, but if you actually measure them, you’ll find they are actually 1/38 or so. Since I have a number of stock Epochs with 1/32 bodies, and some 1/32 bodies are still to small to fit an Epoch, a 1/28 Micro car is a perfect fit.
If you take an MZM and put a roller skate on it, it’s 1:1 scale, but put a Mining truck body on it an magically it turns 1/60 scale…
They are nominally 1/28. Invariably there is some fudging to help the odd body fit the chassis, but it’s generally only +/- half a scale point (ie 1/28.5).
The exception are the Monsters (1/32 or smaller in the case of the original monster body – not sure about the “killer” bodies as I don’t have one), the Monster CJ5 is around 1/18, and the boats range from 1/24 to 1/40.
They are acutally 1/28 scale, which makes them the same size as an Epoch, give or take 😉
Have a look at the Traxxas Villan, a great rough water boat.
Can anyone tell me what wheelbase the Batmobile sits on?
Mine’s the new fangled ‘outlaw’ (illegal for competition) G26 engine, some 5hp 🙂
I want one of these real time telemetry systems:
http://www.eagletreesystems.com/Seagull/seagull.html
Finally you can see speed, RPM mixture etc right there on your TX. Since I have seven channels I can spare a few for mixture and other adjustments, so I can actually correct problems as I drive, optimise setups with the G sensor etc. Not quite F1 but getting there 😀
I do run with the inner body but this creates a new problem, no cooling air! The motor, batt and ESC can get very hot.
I’ve never had a belt car lock up due to a rock (sometimes a bit of garden mulch can lock the drive train), but belts do eventually stretch and need to be cleaned to avoid excess wear. The RS4MT is still on it’s original belts though. Probably has 50-60 packs through it.
I agree, I have a FG Ferrari F310B F1 and won’t go back to 1/10-1/8 Nitro.
Why? It’s much more realistic than any smaller R/C car. You get real rain tyres, brake bias adjustment as you drive etc (assuming you have a Multiplex TX). The handling is a lot closer to real life, since you can’t scale physics, you need to start with a big car to get realistic handling.
Fuel is 1/10th the cost and the engine lasts forever compared to 1/10 engines, tyres, while expensive last ages because they’re so big (ever wear out a Clod tyre?).
I have the monster version and think it’s great, although the belt will need a little attention when used in dirt. It’s an ideal ‘mostly in the street but sometimes in the garden’ car.
I don’t really like the whole Iwaver thing, for the relatively small extra few bucks, I prefer to go with the real deal. The main reason is if I’m about to spend maybe 50-100 hours converting a model, I want to start with the best.
But anyway, I am interested in the TX, does the quality beat the old ones? Can anyone tell me if it works with Epochs? It’s based on the Futaba 2PL and that doesn’t.
It’s just a TLT-1 with a different body. There’s plenty of info on them around. Try r7r.
Yup, my LHS has one OL for AU$150…that’s better than getting one from Asia. Maybe I’ll pick it up this afternoon :shy:
And I also spent $40 for paint (bottled for AB use) to finish a $30 aeroplane…somethings never change.
Edited by – oldtamiyaphile on 13 November 2004 14:15:49
The 1000hrs thing is from a German mag that has a lot of large scale content, the G26 may not last that long, but it’s going to be a lot longer than any 1/10 engine.
Ask any competitive 1/10 or 1/8 racer what a race day costs them…
Wheels generally need to be replaced with the tyres. Since we’re (well I am) talking on road, wheels look pretty sad from curb rash once the tyres wear out. At any rate, I don’t much want to bother with trying to debond super glue from used wheels. If you run off road, wheels and tyres can last the life of the car.
Tyres cost $30 and last you one race weekend, and that’s just on a race tuned .12. a .21 would half that. Piston/liner is $80+ every 8 litre of fuel in a race engine at correct race tune, on a race engine like a NovaRossi you can expect to spend double, tripple etc. Good fuel costs $16/l and you’ll need at least 500cc for a race weekend.
Zenoah will go 1000hrs (in chain saws etc) without drama and fuel costs $1/litre. What is your Zenoah in?
Ofna make a Mini Z10 thats pretty simular for around $300AUD with engine (Force 12). Some HPI parts fit. I love all my 1/10 Mini cars, but the Nitros just don’t handle because of the high CG. The front wheel drive Kyosho Nitro Mantis Mini is my favorite 🙂 It’s disco’d too though 🙁
The 5.3hp Zenoah is a stock G-26 ‘outlaw’ spec. I was actually looking at the .21 powered Schumacher Fusion (70+ MPH), but then I remembered how much these things cost on wheels, tyres, fuel and piston/liners. The 5th scaler is much cheaper in the long run.
Try working 72hrs a week and getting 6hrs sleep if you’re lucky and try spelling then…sometimes you just don’t care 😆
Quote:yeah monsters are cool but they roll over alot, overlanders seem neat but remember only yo use em on carpet or the same surfaces as racers if your going to make jumps.Monsters roll much less than regular OLs (never actually traction rolled my monster, which is very easy in the OL). The CG to overall width ratio is much lower in a monster so it rolls less. I agree that all Kyoshos should be kept inside. Mechanically, monster and OL are pretty much identical.
Have yet to break anything on the monster, OL has broken a few parts (I only noticed the cracks starting in the shock towers when building a new unbreakable chassis).
Nitro is for loosers (had to buy 10 or so to make sure ;), well, got a nitro Helicopter too). I’ve got a 1/5th scaler in transit. 5hp Zenoah and no nitro in sight 😀
I could have got a 1/5th scale monster, but I really wanted an F-1. Maybe next year 😉
Keep in mind this truck is actually 1/24 scale, a pretty good indoor. outdoor vehicle. The outcome of any mag comparo is pretty predictable.
We can argue about who ripped off who, but they are all the same!
Good news is the pretty BMWesque Schumacher body for those of us who already bought the VMG.
AU LHS price is $185.
Cars only or boats, planes etc too?
My review, just don’t tell anyone I sent you 😉
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