PandaBear

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Was the JNH stand ‘protected’ by some nerd behind a counter? Some guy stopped me from going in there.

yea, some new rule they had… previous years they didn’t bother.
This year they asked if I held a trade a/c with them, when I said
I didn’t Mr Counter Guy went off and found us an escort to take
us around. No harm… at least I had his attention the whole time
(which is better than at a lot of the other stands..!).

Revised rule this year too: “no photos without stand owners’ permission”,
which is better than previous silly “absolutely no cameras”.
Saw that sign on Friday, -hey- remembered the camera today.

Naturally the *only* stand that said no to photos was silly Tamiya.
Not that they had anything even remotely NEW on the stand, all they
had were the stuff released earlier at Nuremburg & the ‘Net is
already full of those cars’ photos. :clown:

Everyone else, any publicity is good publicity. 🙂

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This is so strange! I see those Iragi playing cards here in the U.S. all the time!

Are they genuine army-surplus ones or “reproductions”?? 🙂

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“These are the ONLY Radioactive Uranium Doped Marbles on eBay that have been Investigated by the USA Nuclear Regulatory Commission!”

haw haw haw…

Hang on, just a minute.

Don’t they dispose of nuclear waste by
encasing it in glass then bunkering it??

Did someone just come up with a bright idea to
empty the waste bunkers by selling it on eBay??!? :evil::):shock::clown::blush::shock::smiley2:

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Yeah i wouldnt normally be caught dead down here, but i cant afford to move.

Time for uni soon? 🙂

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Damned, are they THAT hard to get??? 🙁

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Damned, are they THAT hard to get??? 🙁

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Dang, you didn’t buy BBs from RCMart??

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Dang, you didn’t buy BBs from RCMart??

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Y’know, you could probably jam the 3 bevels to the big gear with a bunch of small short self-tapping screws.

(Don’t involve the side gears, as they’re captive to the axle rods.)

The big gear & bevels spares are easy to find.

[PandaBear]

Y’know, you could probably jam the 3 bevels to the big gear with a bunch of small short self-tapping screws.

(Don’t involve the side gears, as they’re captive to the axle rods.)

The big gear & bevels spares are easy to find.

[PandaBear]

Hey James…

Do you really care to extend the engine life??

If you do & got some spare time, before you even 1st start the engine…

1) take out & pull the new engine apart.

(if there’s no ‘key’ pin, make sure you mark the original position of the piston liner you can replace it right etc. Don’t lose the shims under the head.)

2) make sure there’s no metal filings inside remaining from the manufacturing; sometimes it happens

3) reset the carb to “factory starting” as per manual

4) reassemble the engine using LOTS of oil on everything that moves. (I just use motor oil.)

5) don’t forget to loctite the screws that hold the engine to the car – or they will shake loose.

(don’t bother loctiting the head & manifold screws, just crank them down tight. Heat kills loctite anyway :blush:)

Now when you crank it up 1st time, you’re at least 100% certain that all moving parts are oiled, not running dry.

And yes, all that oil you’ve put in will find its way out via the tailpipe… so don’t run your car in over your mum’s best carpet. :smiley2:

[PandaBear]

Hey James…

Do you really care to extend the engine life??

If you do & got some spare time, before you even 1st start the engine…

1) take out & pull the new engine apart.

(if there’s no ‘key’ pin, make sure you mark the original position of the piston liner you can replace it right etc. Don’t lose the shims under the head.)

2) make sure there’s no metal filings inside remaining from the manufacturing; sometimes it happens

3) reset the carb to “factory starting” as per manual

4) reassemble the engine using LOTS of oil on everything that moves. (I just use motor oil.)

5) don’t forget to loctite the screws that hold the engine to the car – or they will shake loose.

(don’t bother loctiting the head & manifold screws, just crank them down tight. Heat kills loctite anyway :blush:)

Now when you crank it up 1st time, you’re at least 100% certain that all moving parts are oiled, not running dry.

And yes, all that oil you’ve put in will find its way out via the tailpipe… so don’t run your car in over your mum’s best carpet. :smiley2:

[PandaBear]

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One step ahead, ive bought some O.S. plugs, the guy at my LHS said that the first plug won’t last anywhere near as long as because the running in process wrecks them (so he says).

Ahh, if the plug picks up any metal filings yeah change it.
But if it still keeps going & the coils look clean, no need.

Try a new plug whenever you have problems idling or starting,
especially when it runs ok but dies when you take off the warmer.

OS makes best plugs for ‘normal’ engines, we’ve been using the
OS #8 for oooh about 30 yrs. :smiley16: Suits Kyosho engines well.

OS has a ‘cheaper’ plug called the A3 – it works exactly the same
but the wire coil is only platinum-plated. The #8’s coil is solid
material, there’s no plating that can wear out and it’ll give
you at least 3-4 times the life of an A3; Costs only a few bux more.

Have seen some Kyoshos come with A3 in the kit… the distributor
didn’t believe me so we went to his warehouse, dragged a kit off
his shelf and pulled the plug – ta dah! :smiley16:

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… Then the car is ready for hard driving and higher nitro % fuel.

I’d run it in on the % that you want to run on normally.

If you change % afterwards then another tank or 2 of run-in is good too.

Suggest nitro 10% or 15% is good;
10% probably more than enough & cheaper.

Should have oil content of about 15-20% minimum.
Castor is better as it gives a nice smoke. Synthetic don’t give much
smoke, harder to tell if you’re running rich enough.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

One step ahead, ive bought some O.S. plugs, the guy at my LHS said that the first plug won’t last anywhere near as long as because the running in process wrecks them (so he says).

Ahh, if the plug picks up any metal filings yeah change it.
But if it still keeps going & the coils look clean, no need.

Try a new plug whenever you have problems idling or starting,
especially when it runs ok but dies when you take off the warmer.

OS makes best plugs for ‘normal’ engines, we’ve been using the
OS #8 for oooh about 30 yrs. :smiley16: Suits Kyosho engines well.

OS has a ‘cheaper’ plug called the A3 – it works exactly the same
but the wire coil is only platinum-plated. The #8’s coil is solid
material, there’s no plating that can wear out and it’ll give
you at least 3-4 times the life of an A3; Costs only a few bux more.

Have seen some Kyoshos come with A3 in the kit… the distributor
didn’t believe me so we went to his warehouse, dragged a kit off
his shelf and pulled the plug – ta dah! :smiley16:

Quote:

… Then the car is ready for hard driving and higher nitro % fuel.

I’d run it in on the % that you want to run on normally.

If you change % afterwards then another tank or 2 of run-in is good too.

Suggest nitro 10% or 15% is good;
10% probably more than enough & cheaper.

Should have oil content of about 15-20% minimum.
Castor is better as it gives a nice smoke. Synthetic don’t give much
smoke, harder to tell if you’re running rich enough.

[PandaBear]

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Swarms of locusts are really quite rare down here, ive never seen one before.

Mebbe locusts wouldn’t be caught dead in Tassie… haw haw haw :p

Nah, its the “poor old” farmers in northern Vic & eastern NSW.

First they lived through several years of drought
(some young kids had never seen rain before in their lives),
then suddenly last year they got several years’ worth of rain
all at once and everything got flooded.

This year it was looking pretty good going for them
– some rain, some sun… crops growing well…
but then the LOCUSTS are coming. :dead:

… me starting to think if I were those farmers, I’d be
suspecting Somebody Up There is trying to drop them a Hint… 👿

[PandaBear]

Kyosho should give one… not the best, but better than nuttin’.

Bought any spare glow plugs?? 🙂

How much did postage come to on that?

ps: for the receiver DON’T feed it anything less than 6V, it must have 6V. If you’re using rechargeables you must build a 5-cell pack. If you’re using 4xAAs, stick to good alkalines (& wrap some tape around the 4AA batt holder).

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Kyosho should give one… not the best, but better than nuttin’.

Bought any spare glow plugs?? 🙂

How much did postage come to on that?

ps: for the receiver DON’T feed it anything less than 6V, it must have 6V. If you’re using rechargeables you must build a 5-cell pack. If you’re using 4xAAs, stick to good alkalines (& wrap some tape around the 4AA batt holder).

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Mine neither, was using fwd-only ESC. 😀

BluTac works ok, but you’ll have to open & check the gearbox every few runs. The bevel gears are so big and coarse even the BluTac gets squished out (and jams the countergear) after a while.

There’s more permanent solutions, like epoxy or hotglue… :p

[PandaBear]

Mine neither, was using fwd-only ESC. 😀

BluTac works ok, but you’ll have to open & check the gearbox every few runs. The bevel gears are so big and coarse even the BluTac gets squished out (and jams the countergear) after a while.

There’s more permanent solutions, like epoxy or hotglue… :p

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Yep, precisely correct. You need 1 rear tyre to grip the ground unmoving; if both are sliding you have an extremely taily car – virtually undriveable on loose ground.

With a locked diff, it’ll probably handle better in REVERSE… :clown:

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Yep, precisely correct. You need 1 rear tyre to grip the ground unmoving; if both are sliding you have an extremely taily car – virtually undriveable on loose ground.

With a locked diff, it’ll probably handle better in REVERSE… :clown:

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…and my fav… bush chook ! (emu)

Bush chook is really bunny rabbit (ask someone who lived during WW2).

Try bush turkey. 🙂

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Believe it or not, 1WD is actually a HANDLING feature… as if you have both wheels spinning, you have no lateral traction left.

== donut city.

And I got rid of the (old 1st) Hornet’s clacky hingepin thing too, made it back into Grasshopper fixed pivot style. Improves handling by about 10% and it stops that clacking noise.

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Believe it or not, 1WD is actually a HANDLING feature… as if you have both wheels spinning, you have no lateral traction left.

== donut city.

And I got rid of the (old 1st) Hornet’s clacky hingepin thing too, made it back into Grasshopper fixed pivot style. Improves handling by about 10% and it stops that clacking noise.

[PandaBear]

Tyres – any std buggy affair will do, lots of cheaper & better rubber out there other than Kyosho. Suggest try Proline boots.

Engine can be rejuvenated with a new piston & liner ($100), maybe the conrod ($50) too.

Everything else you’d be better off just buying a whole new car. It’ll be cheaper!! :blush:

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