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This thing really needs a tighter diff or ball diff or locker….or something.

Degrease everything then use Blu-Tac as diff lube. :smiley16:

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Maybe if you stuck an icepack on it, or stuck the whole machine in the freezer (with the wire hanging out thru the door seal)… :smiley2:

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Drink water?

Nah, methink it’ll be Un-American unless you drink only CocaCola & filter coffee.

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Try making the solder on pins 1 and 3 a bit thicker, put a thin piece of wire along the pins to aid in making the solder stick and make a big fat solder joint.

Use offcut legs from resistors & diodes, easier to handle than wire. 🙂

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Hydrogen comes from water, hydrogen is converted back into water…..makes no difference.

Yeah, but the Californians are so smart… when they make rules for
“zero emission vehicles” they don’t even allow water from exhausts!!

Maybe things will change with Arnie in charge..! 🙂

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Ah so you are prepared to ruin a country for cheap petrol…?

Cheap petrol — where???

Melbourne just hit 98-99c last weekend. :dead:

Cripes, still remember filling the (SAME!) tank
and fuel only costed 35c/litre.

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Kyosho parts shouldn’t be too hard, Oz importer is pretty good.

Expect the usual needs – front arms, front bulkhead, slipper bits.

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Bearings….hmmmm dunno where im gonna find ’em.

Best get from RCMart maybe, ask them for a quote.
Don’t have to be Kyosho originals, anything will do.

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btw there’s supposedly 28 cells in that thing.

(me lost count after I ran out of fingers & toes…)

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Nah, cells aren’t that heavy… they are probably 2/3rd subCs.

Well ya fellas missed Velodrome 2004 didn’t ya? 👿

uA saw/drove/dissected what I was planning to shoot with, but
come that day we got some rain and there was this local fella
(aka the Tamiya God) with the same idea… and a few more cells! :p

Unfortunately the speed sensor went on the blink when this ran
so nobody knew how fast it did. The boys think ~ 110-120kmh.

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Ultima RB is not a bad vehicle; its a few yrs old now but 1/10 offroad 2WD racer technology is pretty mature already and there’s been no real new innovations since then. A classic design, nothing too wrong with it.

Commonest complaint with 1/10 2WD nitro is… the parts are often a bit on the fragile side. I suspect the base design was for an electric versions which would hold up to normal abuse well enough, but the gas engine just makes it that much faster. (well, don’t hit anything too hard and you’ll be ok :evil:)

The stock Ultima electric buggy is heaps more advanced & tougher than Tamiya Super Hornet… and doesn’t cost much more either.

Personally speaking, I think that buggy shell is hideous on a GP car – looks like a backyard hack job. 🙁

If I wanted to get one I’d go for the truck version instead; get bigger balloon tyres too.

Bearings are essential, especially for GP. Something tells me the Ultima uses some non-metric bearings on the axles & metric in the gearbox, so best buy the BBs as a full kit if you can. Might be harder than usual to piece a set together from loose BBs.

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and as far as a first anniversiry, i dont get what u mean??? is it of the day dubya bush reckoned the war is over? cos americas government been actin like nazis ever since ww2 finished!

Its 366 to the day Iraq got invaded… and quite a few are edgy
that there may be some commemorative terrorist violence etc.

Conveniently ignoring the fact that the Muslim calendar
don’t run by a 365/366 day cycle anyway. 😀
Why let the facts ruin a good story?

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hey, ph. what the f*ck is your avatar???? looks like some australian idol regect!!!!

WORSE!

There is only ONE thing WORSE than Australian Idol…

… and that’s AMERICAN IDOL!!! :shock::shock::shock::dead:

That’s Mr Hung the dancing chipmunk, err, Engineer.
(totally unprofessionally untrained, no doubt)

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Hope ya didn’t kill anything more than the FETs… blackeye:

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Does it actually say they are 2000mAH? I couldnt find it.

Look closely at the pic of the cell… right under “..GEABLE”.

Its a AA NiMH anyway, most good brands do 2000 by now.

They’ve got AAAs too… but like you said, I haven’t
found out what their rating is. 850-900 would be nice.

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Must be some kind of pulse charger.
I’d be interested to find out more, not to mention a little sceptical.

Thought NiMH never liked pulse charging, only linear?

Me speculating its just batteries that have a built in temp sensor,
which the charger uses to regulate the current. If it warms up
too much it’ll wind the amps down.

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Betty.K just wants to get the Spud back into the dirt :smiley2:

LOL… (groan)

… and Trash watering it with heavy water..? 🙂

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How about running Bits powered by a Potato Battery?? 🙂

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I’d think that’s what it is… unless some wacky
scientist has invented a way to burn water lately.

Probably not ‘sealed’ either; sounds like it
splits the water and stores only the H2.

But don’t know what happens to the fuel cell’s
exhaust – essentially pure water, as it’ll just
re-oxidise with atmospheric O2.

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Wills which AAA cells do you think is the best???

Still swearing by the Energizer NiMHs, James.

I’m sure there’s probably better cells out there, but
none as reliable & easily available as these.

Even my postoffice sells ’em! 🙂

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Still a few yrs away yet, no rush. :blush:

There’s a guy down the road who DOES have a red machine in his loungeroom. However, he lives in a penthouse apartment 10 storeys up! 😯

Guess he’s on first name terms with his crane operators… :p

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Still a few yrs away yet, no rush. :blush:

There’s a guy down the road who DOES have a red machine in his loungeroom. However, he lives in a penthouse apartment 10 storeys up! 😯

Guess he’s on first name terms with his crane operators… :p

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Given that a fuel cell produces more electricity than it uses, I guess the easiest way to make it work is to us a battery to get the process going, after that it’s self sustaining.

Ummm.. I think you’ve missed something, OTP.

Water is NOT the fuel fed to the fuelcell; hydrogen is.

Water is too chemically stable to be any good as a fuel. It is only
the media used as a source of H2 & O2 ions, formed via electrolysis.
H2 & O2… now there’s an explosive combination!

Feed H2 into the fuel cell and it’ll oxidise to liberate electricity,
but really its no more energy than what you’ve put in into the
system in the first place (electrolysis).

These fuelcell/hydrogen systems are pretty common as backup generators
(aka UPS) for PC server installations. They store the hygroden in
tanks filled with lead pebbles, then kick in whenever necessary.
Better than a petrol engine generator as they need less maintenance
and they ‘recharge’ their own fuel when grid power is available.

Fuel cells (ideal circumstances) don’t need any starting; the fuel
at the interface does not do anything until current is drawn.
When the current flows, the fuel then begins oxidising and only uses
as much as necessary with no waste.

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A smallish cap (~600-1000uF) on the battery inputs
often helps to avoid radio glitching if you’ve
put in a hotter motor.

A larger cap (1000-3000uF) might give you a little
more ‘punch’ in a larger RC… although not sure
what a MiniZ would do with it. Probably nothing on
a stock PCB, maybe something on a modFET’d one.

You’d probably get better results by getting some
known low-InternalResistance AAA batteries… or
rig up some AAs instead.

Cap goes across the battery inputs, closer to the
ESC PCB the better.

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Obviously it uses a generator or altenator to provide itself power. It would be really cool if it runs on AC power 🙂

and of course there’s a power limit, even a nuclear reactor has a limit :p

Not much heavier than an Xmods 👿

Might be a while before it comes to that… given that it
*is* only the size of a 1/24 XMod or MiniZ.

So you think it charges itself up, off some external electric source?
(which splits water, car stores the components as fuel and
oxidises it in the fuel cell to power the car later)

Output power limit in a fuel cell depends on a lot of variables,
eg its design, the amt of area its permeable interface there is,
the tyre of membrane used for the interface, ambient temperature
the pressure/temperature/volume of fuel flowing through it etc.

Hey where’s uA??

Had posted this up if only to bait him… 👿

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Gadget-phreak pal sent me this:- http://www.i4u.com/article1266.html
(which I conveniently ‘borrowed’ above :))

… but the on-link doesn’t pickup anything more.

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No idea… I’m still stuck at trying to find out
WHERE it gets the power from to split the water?? :question:

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Cute!

Where’s the FET mod?? 🙂

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