PandaBear

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Trueno on 20October2002

Just wondering if you can switch the Fairlady and Auto Modelista set to run at full speed only like with the four band controller.

Nup, can’t switch anything (not like “B” or “C” on the 4-band).

Then again, it wouldn’t be very hard to solder in a switch or jumper to short out the boost button and put it permanently on. (Already have some unique ideas, but didn’t want to hack up this 1-n-only Zed.)

I’m wondering myself what happens if we use a ‘normal’ 57M controller with the Zed… unfortunately this is my only 57 set.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by Shypo on 20October2002

where did you buy the fairlady Z?

Usual hongkers place.

[PandaBear]

I’m in Melbourne, Jamie; you’re in Sydney I think? $235 is good price, probably not worth troubling my pal for that. By the time postage etc etc, it all adds up.

Try HOBBICO maybe, think they had some limited stock at $229 but probably not the popular GT3 in red. Spare bodies GT3 available as option too.

Ya, Kyosho makes some decent stuff – especially their gas cars. V-ONE and Inferno series are just great.

[PandaBear]

Where are you buying the KIT Racers, Z?

In Oz, if so how much?

tnx

[PandaBear]

Quote:

CORRECTION by PandaBear

To DOUBLE your TX’s charge time, they say to replace C3 with a 47uF capacitor (for our 3V the cap can be of any rating, lowest/cheapest is usually already 16V).

Make that “C2″… :smiley9:

Quote:

But me thinks… the original is 22uF. There is no harm in ADDING another 22uF or 27uF capacitor in PARALLEL piggyback with the original one and that should do the trick too. That way you can easily reverse the mod if you need to, saves work too.

Okie… have DONE that!!! :smiley10:

[PandaBear]

Easiest is to whack your ammeter on and see… (hint:- use the 10A setting first).

[PandaBear]

No!
Go way!
If you know what’s good for you, get away while you can quick!
These toys are ADDICTIVE!!

[PandaBear]

What’s cheap for a MiniZ?

Let me know and I’ll see if my pals can help. I’ve been running Kyosho for last 20 yrs now.

[PandaBear]

Official Oz Tomy Compacts are RRP $45-$50 at the usual toy shops.

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by jamiekulhanek on 19?October?2002

…i cant get one down here for under 350 AUD!!!

You’re obviously shopping at all the wrong places!! :smiley1: If Ausmicro no longer takes orders, PM me with which model/colour you’re after and I’ll go have a search around down here. Definitely have seen them for < $300.

[PandaBear]

Putting the boost button above the “go” button would have been a lot handier… hmm… not hard to add an extra pushswitch with flyleads…!

[PandaBear]

Quote:

Originally posted by z-beam on 18?October?2002

forgot to mention the chip under the pcb that replaces the black dot on the regular bits

Same thing! Black plastic dot = naked microchip.

Just depends what’s cheaper to manufacture.

[PandaBear]

Who still has an ATARI joystick?? :smiley10:

(The slim square one with the single red “boost” button – nyah hah hah!!)

[PandaBear]

Sell… yes – try Chinatown.

Cheap… err, no.

There’s always KMart &TRU for the standard 4 b2.2 styles.

[PandaBear]

Dual-cell usually means 2 cells in series, giving 2.4V. More speed, more heat from your motor.

Ya, you *could* put them in Parallel to keep it 1.2V but with twice the running time (capacity), but I don’t think anyone has done that before as1 NiMH cell gives twice capacity in the same volume & weight as 1 cell.

[PandaBear]

The microswitches are easy replacements, even the Tomy ones aren’t of the best quality. Wouldn’t need much skill to replace them.

Actually, if I had to replace mine… I’d be real tempted to junk them all and then also throw away the big square plastic buttons too. Wire up some real momentary switches on a new front panel and you might have a nicer control too.

Megatip:- see if you can find a used PC joystick or videogame gamepad… and use that as the switches instead.

[PandaBear]

How many you think will actually buy…?

Somehow I’d think most gals would find better use for $50. :smiley8:

[PandaBear]

This is what the (glare-free) box looks like, for all who asked.

You can’t see the boostbutton from outside.

[PandaBear]

Yea – just stop squabbling you too. (Must be something in the London water – cease swimming in the Thames, fellas.)

Talking of crazes… anyone remember the MOTOR TOMICA?? Motorised diecast matchbox models made by u-know-who. Or more to the point, there were 2 phases… approx mid 1970s they were “friction” powered, then 5 yrs ago they became electric motorised powered by a N-cell. Lest you guys start writing obituaries for the BCG, lets just say that MOTOR TOMICA was a “BIG HIT” back in its day too….!

One little reason why its getting harder to get BCG car & accessories stock *might* be that in Japan its already passe. I saw them when they first came out over a year ago, betcha the japs havemoved on to other gadgets by now. Anyone buy japanese manga just for the toy ads??

One _big_ drawback of BCG is that there doesn’t seem to be any attraction to Girls. Yeah, girls… haven’t seen any play BCG yet. Whereas with Mini4WD, there were actually girls playing them too. Plus they had a manga drama following too, that’ can’t hurt.

(Hmm… gotta get me one of those super yoyos with ballbearings!!)

[PandaBear]

No, they’re bigger.

If you want a Bit Supra why not just buy the AutoModellista set and paint your own?

[Author]

Posts