VR-4
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lol they all require glow plugs becouse you bunrn the stock plug out during brake in.
maybe 19mph with really good cells the right gearing and useing no alu. parts
lets face it the x speed is a pos. no berings ect. my little $10 plasma dash eats the x speed alive so dus my ultra dash and that was only $5
gettin my monster gt on thursday
some times i done even run a pipe on my car…yeah it stalls some times but it makes it 50 times louder. i want me car ta make people think the world is gonna end when im driveing it.
batterys are for flashlights gimmy nitro!
i dought that in 6 months the t maxx will have 1/2 the 3rd party suport that the hpi will have just like all there cars just about every company makes somthing for a rs4.
ss is a hoped up verson of the savage just a few changes and a diff. eng.
i seen a savage ss a t maxx and a ek-4 all get spanked by a monster gt.
hands down the savage has a better chassy and more power so my vote goes there. but if you toss in a monster gt by far thats a faster bigger and better truck
diff spool $12
steel spur gear $20
cvec .21 pipe $45
cvd’s $? check into itget the diff spools and you cant stop the truck just just rips throught everything.
i got mine in a group buy off tiny rc and i plan on another 1 in about 4 days so pm me and i’ll give ya some info on them. there $20 usd and there 15 styles to pick from. were getting them from germany so it might take about a week for who’s ever gonna do the buy to get them and another week for you ta get them
you got a 2wd stadum truck why dont you use the tires that are made for it. mashers are made for 2wd monster trucks like stampeed ect. dirt hawgs are got street/hard packed clay or dirt.
1 thing you must remember is that a staduem trucs trans is not like a monster truck trans you cant spin a par of machers its gonna be to hard on your trans eng. ect.
you want somthing with long whare and high grip use step pin and nip them “cut the tips of the pins off” this will give you more traction.
go to the losi web site or the proline web site and ask them there gonna tell you the same stuff i ben telling you.
only 4wd cars come with dirt hogs there a deep street tred they suck off road unless your cars 4wd.
mashers have tomuch grip and a stadum truck cant handle it becouse your gonna need some extra balls ta spinn them about a 15 turn or less and i used a alu. top shaft in my losi and i had sand paws on it “step up from the mashers” and used a 9turn single and snaped the part of my topshaft that goes to my slipty in 1/2
well there bolth the same size the only diff is 1 is considered 1/8 becoue of the .21
the hpi and the savage can use the same tires and bodys. and its a new car but theres gonna be alot of parts like any hpi car in a few years.
heres some + and – of them
+ savage
.21
strong chassy
better brakeing system
stronger drive trane– of the savage
not alot of aftermarket parts yet
you gotta buy the reverse mod. “i hate reverse anyways”
.21 is a gas hog and sucks alot of gas
parts coust more becouse of the .21tmaxx +
2 speed
reverse
rear exhust 2.5
3 ch. radio
pre painted body– tmaxx
the electric starts sucks and hardly works after a while
the tuned pipe well sucks
nothing you guard the head from roll oversthere more + and – of each truck you need to check http://www.hpiracing.com for the savage and http://www.traxxas.com for the maxx
i had a maxx and just reacently sold it and i liked it but i upgraded to a rc10 monster gt thats faster and more powerful than bolth of them
also if your looking i got a hoped up ek-4 im looking ta sell but you need a starter box for it
or you can get creative take a aus. car batt. charger and hook your charger up to that so you can plug it into the wall.
got banned on every pso fourm becoue of hacking the game and posting how to hack lmao
im just trying to see if anyone here plays this game
you can make a hood scoop by sticking a hot soldering iron from under the hood and heating the plastic then just puch a scoop out then just sand it smooth and paint it and cut a intake if you want
moisture in the air the temp. ect.
read it in the eng. instrution booklet. my novarossi loves cold weatcher but its much harder to tune but when its tuned it runs smoother and faster.
go to a hobby shop and buy a book called nitro basics its writen by the people from rc car action and its full of helpfull info and tips.
mashers are for monster trucks and dirt hogs were made for 4wd trucks.
use either proline bow tie t’s in the back losi silver or gold step pin or fuzzys and pro line the edge up front.
you can buy a gallon of fule for about $30 and that will last ya awile
they are alot more work but there alot funner. cant take a electric car mud bogin or plowing through puddle and snow but nitro can 🙂
they suck mayjor azz.
proline the edge up front and proline bow tie t’s in the back
as far as tuneing the suspen. rebulding the diff ect. the top shaft is flawed in the xxxt so you gotta make shut its greased good it it whares out fast
not really a good truck ta start off with but you can it will just be a little harder. the carb for that mach .15 is really hard to tune and the truck its sell has alot of upkeep outher than that its a good truck. i prafer the rc10 gt ben around a long time and hasent changed much so it must be good. they offer that in a rtr to i think the eng. is made by thunder tiger or they might of switched becouse i while ago it was a thunder tiger.
yeah just keep it on till its started and the after its started i like to keep it on for a extra 30 sec ta keep the pulg nice and hot till the eng. warms up.
depends they bolth have there ups and downs nitro can couse alot more to fix becouse of the eng. but there really made ta take a beating. just keep the air filter on tigher and use a fule filter and your eng. will love you.
to turn them off you just pinch the fule line till it go’s off.
brake in is the hardest part of nitro rc. but remember your high speed needle need to be adj. alot. like if it muggy out and hot and the next day its cold and dry then you will need to adj. the high speed becouse it might not start. not all that hard after a few times.
for your first nitro car you should go with a traxxas becouse of the eng. replacemnt plan and they have the best warrenty on the eng. and there cars are easy to tune.
the 2.5 max and 4 tec might be alittle to powere full and to complex for you to start off with.
the nitro sport and nitro stampeed are really nice trucks my first nitro was a stampeed and with the trx pro .15 its pretty fast and hass all the goodes like electric start dual exhust nice trany ball bearings.
just spend $30 on a race guard fail safe unit. did yu see my fusion thats what happens when your batt. pack on the car dies at full throtle all you can do is sit and watch and cry.
the fail safe can be programmed to whare if there a voltage drop it returns all servos to the normal pos. or full brake ect. for nitro cars its the best hop up ever.
check out http://www.traxxas.com the reason im saying go with them is becouse there custmer suport is A+ and there cars are really nice qualty. back when the trx pro .15 came out i was racing my stampeed and crached it into a traylor and snaped the head off and the carb off. and they replaced it for $60 a fresh new pull start “back then they were $110 for the pull start verson”
everyone i know who had a traxxas has had good luck with them and has nothing but nice things ta say about there cars.
tru it is hard to dial in but i seen 1 run and during brake in it wanted to pull its front tires up off the groud. lb for lb you cant beat it its a nice car .21 top of the line features and it dosent coust all that much. i was thinking on buying 1 my self some time soon
xxxt is really nice but a bit harder to set up but just read the instrutions and everything will be ok. take your time to just bocouse i can make 1 in a hour dosent mean you can it might take you 8 hours
well i made all the hpi’s and really theres nothing to fear there simple to do. if you want i can do it for you but really you need to make your first car becouse some day somthing going to go wrong and you take into a hobby shop and there gonna charge you for stuff you dont need.
the instructions for all hpi kits are really easy and all the bags are marked so heres some tips
when the directions say bag d-2 only oen bag d-2 then set all the parts out so you can see them.
if you have any screws touching metal use thredlock.
when you want to install your stering servo turn the hook up all the electronics and turn it on then install the servo this will center it for the car and after that you just fine tune the trim adj.
remember to not tighten the diff’d up to much “you want them nice and smooth but not so much as they slip”
same with the servo saver to tight and kiss your gears good by to loose and your stearing will suck.
the slipry clutch should be just tight enought to whare the car when holding it and the motor is at 100% throtle it slips so there no chance in striping a gear when you land off a jump.
to get the right gear mesh just put a normal peace of paper between the pinion and sput then tighten the motor down.
i live in michigan and i worked for riders hobby shop so if you need any help just e mail me at Toobadneil@aol.com and i’ll be happy to help you
but this is somthing i think you need to do foryour self hpi’s are easy to set up
if you need any help just e mail me or tell me any kind of messanger name and i’ll help you throught it i had a rs4 rs4 rally and its not a hard car to put togher.
just remember when you get it just take the instructions out and give them a gook lookthrough befor your open anything. some times you get some extra parts and hpi marks them really good in the instrutions that thhere optional parts.
if you live in lower michigan or upper ohio i might know some guys in your area that can help
i saw some clones at the gas station so im gonna pick 1 up
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