Aaron

[Aaron]

The Speedy NM doesn’t do more than 1-2km/h more than a stock car with the same batteries etc. The NM is a whole lot quicker on the ground though as you’ve seen.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Mate – I haven’t done much more on the chasing front.

I have some spare (used) motors here. PM me an address and I’ll mail one out to ya 🙂

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

The caps are now available to purchase in the Online Store:

http://shop.ausmicro.net/product_info.php?products_id=341

There’s Limited Stock so get in FAST!

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

*laughs* That’s the rough plan Pete. The Bike will make it vastly more affordable to do day-trips to Sydeny and stuff around Canberra. Ofocurse I do want to get some more expereince, and probably a condom suit (wet weather) to ensure I stay dry each way.

Just remember it’s onlya 250cc and the AWD acceerlates harder 🙂

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

I reckon once you’ve done the FETs a PN S03 or Saber would be the ducks nuts… with the high torque it’s going to really use all the AWD grip off the line and out of corners and still have a pretty strong top-end speed.

You’ll always get a good result from FETs.. My AWD will eventually go under the knife for a Spider II installation which will fit very nicely on the chassis.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

OK everyone.

This is back on the Agenda, it’s likely we’ll be making the purchase in January, and moving the website by April (in time for our 5th Birthday!)

The Hats donated to us will be sold to raise the funds for the software over the coming 3 weeks.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Quote:

PandaBear wrote:

Quote:

Aaron wrote:

I have two plans…

Plan A) Unwind properly and compreshensively – hopefulyl recovering a bit more from the ijury that””s kept me on 3 day weeks for the last 2 months

Plan B) Enjoy riding my new motorcycle 🙂

You gone bikie too?

Have only done less than 90kms on the two-wheeler since August… but that”s still over an hour in the saddle given the little thing only does 55km/h at WOT. Damned dangerous in traffic being so slow.

Should really get around to testing for the licence…

Well in review…..

The relax part went as well as expected, while the Bike part is goign quite well I really do have to get up some more kms and more seat time. Bit of a let down was not being able to ride much over the Christmas part of the break, instead only in the last 3 days. Still got close to 100km up now!

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Still using the PN SpeedyNM and still no breakages. Haven’t installed the bearings yet, and I’m only starting to think about playing with the electronics.

It’s hit, rolled and crashed more than just about any of my other ‘zs and hasn’t broken anything.

Sadly screw holes damage is almost always excessive tensioning. in short don’t take anythign apart unless you have to!

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

*laughs* Nah normally they’re fun enough. Sure not mind blowing quick but enough to bring a smile to the dial….

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

I have seen online instructiosn on how to upgrade the steering to be closer to the Kyosho steering setup. I haven’t done the mode yet – but am likely to in the coming weeks as I tinker with our test truck.

If I get it going I’ll post up the how-to.

iWaver trucks sometiems can be a pain – but ont he whole they do work well – the steering seems like their real problem….

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

http://shop.ausmicro.net/product_info.php?cPath=21_27_59&products_id=118

That’ll be them

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Got a pack of MR02MM PN Plates here….

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Yeah – iWavers use different servo gears to Kyosho too. So make sure you keep that in mind.

It’s possible to convert to Kyosho servo gears if you change the steering potentiometer.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

The thing is a MA010 is not that much more exxy than a MR02, say about $70 or so and the difference in ‘fun factor’ is more than that – But it does mean thinking away from the ‘cheap’ R/C to the it costs as much as 1/10ths…

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

I think I have MM plates as well – I’ll look in the H-PLate box this arvo ….

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

I am considering converting mine to dry – especially as they’re open bearings, dry does tend to make more sense as they won’t attract grunge as much…

Still I have to fit them first.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Yeah picking it up tomorrow. Little 250cc Honda VTR. It’ll do fast enough to get me into trouble. The investment in gear is the killer. Helmets, Jackets, gloves, boots, pants etc … Bikes ain’t cheap transport :/

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

I have two plans…

Plan A) Unwind properly and compreshensively – hopefulyl recovering a bit more from the ijury that’s kept me on 3 day weeks for the last 2 months

Plan B) Enjoy riding my new motorcycle 🙂

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Yeah – the bearings are to narrow to have shields. That’s defined by their sizing. The 3Racing bearings I brought in are the same.

Have checked with bearing suppliers and there is no shielded option unless you go for the slightly wider ones.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Interesting…. I just sent out my last white and never took a good look at it to see how it’s paint was. The MJ of DGS’s looked fine so it could be a one-off 🙁 That ‘Glosscoat’ does dilute detailsthough – starting to see that on some of the re-release shells that I handled before Glosscoat and now with Glosscoat.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Yeah I got one left – Millenium Jade sitting here…. Got a Yellow 575GTC body too….

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

I may be Cynical but I think the message from Kyosho is to buy the ReadySet then buy the optional wheel set, and same for the Chassis Set!

Just another way of extracting 2000ish yen from people.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

Nope Ready sets only come with the Skyline style wheels in 1mm offset, and narrow all round.

But I belive you do get the gear sets for Medium and Long chassis setups…

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

The caps would need to be remounted to the top. and I think the risk of junk input is too high havign them at the bottom unless you’re real sure of the running surface.

The motor is below the PCB and there’s little more than some tape between them – but a small air-gap.

So far I’m considering the following Mods:

* Lay-down Crystal – that way I can run some of the low-roof shells like GT40

* 2×2 Drive FET stack (IRF7317) for improved torque and offline punch – possibly to accomodate a move to PN Saber power.

* IRF7317 steering FETs to quicken the steering slightly and give it a little more torque (yes it makes a difference).

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Site Owner Guy.

[Aaron]

To my touch it seesm to run a bit cooler. I’m running it in it’s standard layout which means the cooling holes int eh case face up towards the Rx board, but I suppose it could be rijigged to face them down (at the risk of getting junk int he motor).

But yeah I think it runs cooler – and for the most part I’m running on a tigh pile house carpet which is pretty ‘draggy’ comapred with foam or slicker surfaces.

It does make enough toque to want to unclip the motor cover though and I think if there’s an alloy motor cover available it’d be worth it if you’re going to play with gearing and higher performance stuff.

A.

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Site Owner Guy.

[Author]

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