Aaron
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Well after running down a set of batteries in stock form (with my lovely old GT3 body) I upped the stakes by doing a direct drop in of a PN Racing Speedy 05NM.
The extra torque absolutely flings the car off the line and ramps it up to a a higher speed than the stock motor. The Tamiya Dyno doesn’t back this up, so we can easily assume that most of the losses occur not in spinning the mass of the AWD system, but in the extra weight of the car and the extra drag of the AWD running gear on the ground really liking the torque boost.
Can’t wait for the bearings to arrive and then I may even treat it to some alloy nuts. Unlike the previous Mini-Z nuts are less critical as the wheels and a tight fit onto all four axles, no more stuffing around wiht play and so on.
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Site Owner Guy.Here’s a pic of mine before I switched to the 0 offset Wide rears. It’s a old GT3 body and the chassis is set for 94mm. It’s more likely to spin than drift but it definately can and will drift. Since this pic I’ve switced to Wide rears and now it’s more even and a little easier to maintain prolonged drift.
Overall this is the second all-new Mini-Z I’ve owned and it’s by far the best out-of-box.
In the more Techy thread I’ll post some pics of my changes…..
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Site Owner Guy.Mihes drifting fine in 94mm length with the wide rears and stock rubber. But the surface is very slick.
I’ve now set the car up with a PN Speedy05NM which has given it explosive acceleration and a little higher speed.
The bearings we have coming are Aftermarket and will be AUD20 shipped from within Australia. I’ve seen genuine Kyosho sets for up to USD38 which is even more insane than their usual USD25ish for the MR01/02 etc.
So far I’m not really considering bringing in any of the genuine Kyosho stuff until supply and price settles a bit. There’s a lot of fun to be had with the car stock.
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Site Owner Guy.Dunno about brakes, I still haven’t fired mine up.
The good news.. Bearing sets will be here within a week (fingers crossed). $20 in the shop…. All 10 bearings.
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Site Owner Guy.More Tech: I dug up the Datasheet for the HAT3010 FETs fitted to the AWD.
RDS(on) is about 175mOhms across the N+P paths. So no great gains there given the IRF7389 is 105mOhms and the IRF7317 a mere 62mOhms.
However current handling is now up to 6A nominally on the N- side but down to 5A on the P side (assuming you control temperature). This means that you’ll still be stressing them pretty hard.
Overall an improvement, but still nothing on using a decent FET.
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Site Owner Guy.I can pretty much do a modded PN motor anytime – I am a big beliver in running stock until you know what it wants though. I may get mine up in the garage this weekend (gotta roll the 1:1 and lawmower outa the way) and test it on painted concrete.
I’m thinking going for a 2nd Gen Spider setup running a PN Saber – the slight torque advantage over the Anima should make it nice.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah I’ve got about 50 new items in a carton waiting to be photographed and put up in the shop. The S7 will be in the same price bracket as the other iWaver shells. Hopefully I’ll get them up this weekend.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah there’s 1.5mm offset wheels there! At a guess they just sit that little bit extra tucked inthe guards.
I’ll take pic tomorrow of the R32 sitting over 0 offsets 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.Nah not yet Kev. I would expect it to be the same as the regular X-Speeds with the slightly changed wiring layout though….
That said the new FETs may mean they’ve upped the stakes a bit.
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Site Owner Guy.Started a new thread for us to talk techy about the AWD
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Site Owner Guy.Updated with MA-010 (AWD) Info.
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Site Owner Guy.At each corner of the car is a knuckle as expected, these are the same front and rear , and either a left side or right piece. They’re an elegant design that accomodates two bushes in stock form, bushes that you’ll want to replace with bearings ASAP.
The bushes are 6mm outside, 3mm shaft bore and 2mm thick.
I have test fitted 6mmx3mmx2.5mm (MR63ZZ) and they do fit with a little protrusion. The ideal would be MR63 bearings (they’re open) and coincidently the same as used by 1st Gen Xmods.
I have updated the info on the Bearing size thread as well.
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Site Owner Guy.The Motor:
A lot of people expected this to be vastly different and there is a slight difference to the previous setups. The stock motor has three 104 ceramic caps to kill noise and they’re mounted differntly to suit the new mounting style in the AWD. Motor wires are much the same length as before .
The motor mounting has changed. You now load the motor into a pair of mounts (selected to suit the pinion and spur choices you’ve made) and then slide the motor up into the chassis fromt eh underside. The motor cover then clips into place.
It looks like PN motors will be able to be used with relocation of the filter caps.
The motors will not cool well in this location and this is likely to cause problems with the mount sections melting.
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Site Owner Guy.New Electronics.
The PCB at first glance looks just like the MR01 and MR02 boards, but then when you look closer it’s got a slightly different chip-load and ofcourse the big news is the change in drive FETs away from the 3004 type used by Kyosho up until now to the new 3010 type. I haven’t looked up the specs yet but they are still a P+N S08 pack device which means IRF7317 conversions will be possible. Except for the placement issue.
Becuase the board mounts FETs up it does give us room to make a stack if you’re willing to cut holes (Ala iWaver) in the top cover. Had the PCB been mounted FETs down stacking would be out of the question as the motor sits barely5mm below the board.
3004 FETs still do the steering dutyand the motors attach in the same manner that we’re used to.
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Site Owner Guy.The chassis set comes with 4 weeks pre-mounted (0 Offset) and then comes with 10 more wheels of varied offsets. The set of 10 includes 4 wide wheels.
The manual includes a table giving offsets that match the various Autoscale bodies.
Unfortunately there are some offsets that are not available but are considered to be more desireable. ie 1.7mm for running R32 Skyline bodies.
The next downside is that once the wheels are removed from their packaging you can’t tell them apart – so maybe colouring them would be a good thing.
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Site Owner Guy.Got one in stock now. It’s a very long looking body but overall not a bad thing. Got the TE Enzos coming too.
The MR02 GT40 body is very sexy though 🙂 There’s no doubts about that one!
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Site Owner Guy.I got my chassis set on Monday arvo and will be picking up another batch today seeing as Duty etc was paid on Monday for those.
Pics about to come. The sad thing is I haven’t run it yet… I’ll probably bearing up the hubs today if I can find the last of the spare bearings around here.
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Site Owner Guy.Ken, my price list shows Y700 for the titanium shaft. either way it must be real small to be priced so cheap 🙂
Then again I think all the options parts are in the 700-1400 Yen bracket barring a few of the more elaborate pieces.
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Site Owner Guy.They’ll just be out of stock. Keep checking the stores. Also the Firelap 2.0 continues the MR02 compatibility now that iWaver have released their new look 2.0
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Site Owner Guy.The PN S05NM is the same motor as z-beam is using. The SpeedyNM is a Neo magnet (more torque) version of the FET friendly PN Speedy 05 (S05) range.
You don’t need to buy credit, and we can take cash into bank account, do Australia Post COD and Credit Card via Paypal which is integrated into the shap system.
We do offer the Store Credit for people who want the ease of paying with a Money order or large payment when they have cash and then buy using it for a few months. It’s kind of like having a way to buy anythign you want form the store and not needing cash. It works well for peopel who would normally use COD as they save the $8+ fees from Australia Post with each shipment.
I strongly advise using a PN motor over any iWaver motor, the PNs are exceptionally good and the NM is an awesome choice for an Overland where it’s less about speed and more about torque. Not having to do FET mods etc makes things even better.
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Site Owner Guy.I have a White and a Millenium Jade available and due within 10days from my second order. I wouldn’t bother with hop-ups until someone actually determines what brakes and what helps.
Check this link to see our trace notice 🙂
http://phlog.net/getpic.php?pic=fd8935c74ba791b77a3389a39c0bba38&original=yes
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Site Owner Guy.The trucks shoudl be fine. Sure they can sometiems break due to abuse, but realistically they’ll be a lot of fun. My experience is that bearings are always worth it, although they could be left until you find out how much the child enjoys the toys. Likewise the alloy stuff.
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Site Owner Guy.*laughs* All mine (well customers ReadySets) are between the US and here. They’re coming EMS so may arrive by Monday.
I know a few people who will be very happy.
I’ve still got a few sitting in Japan as well, so there will be stock to touch real soon.
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Site Owner Guy.How are people going with their shipping notices?
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Site Owner Guy.Newest version of the Spider (still in development) can be internally mounted in a MR01 chassis!
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