Aaron
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Glad to hear the Gandini Foams are doing the trick. And that the FETs are back in and running good 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.I do wonder about that. I mean we buy TFTs for work in batches of 20, 40 and 100s and honestly we’ve not had a single dead pixel out of about 1000 odd screens in the last 4 or so years.
Before that we had a $5000 SGI screen witha few locked on straight out of the box, a $8000 Toshiba with 3 locked on and 5 locked off in a cluster…
Seems at least on mainstream screen reliability is great.
The PSP is cheap, but at least the screen should (IMHO) be dead pixel free from new….
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Site Owner Guy.z-beam wrote:well thats better! i had to quickly change the default posts per page to 20… and now she looks fine!Now the default 🙂
z-beam wrote:but i nearly cried when i saw the odd style it was in before i changed it in my settings… might want to make it V.3 similar Aaron so that newcomers are not scared off by the alien set up!Me too. Finally worked out how to kill that off 🙂 :rocket:
We are slowly making progress….
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Site Owner Guy.Overall:
I would rate this as a very credible first effort in R/C design. The front suspension despite my questions over durability is exceptional in function on the bench and would probably address many of the handling concerns of the rigid axled Mini-Z and Firelap Monsters.The quality of the steering knuckles really has me concerned, but alloy replacements would resolve that pretty quick.
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Site Owner Guy.And finally something not so good. The steering knuckles were in appaling condition. The shafts not round, instead ground into a weird rendition of filed roundish.
Then there’s the fact one axle wasn’t even instered into the knuckle correctly – seriously limiting turning ability.
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Site Owner Guy.The Rear “pod”. I couldn’t really gauge the effectiveness, but to me it seems like overkill when the main shock mount bends and twists around long before the springs compress.
The Rx board has changed little. FETs are still top mounted with no pexky black box in the way. Still lousy 9110 steering but it does feel for linear and stronger using a “proper” servo setup.
And the reason the chassis is here. The Forward drive FET has seen better days…
The new 3×2 IRF7317 stacks fit under the top cover! No more cutting needed.
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Site Owner Guy.If you’re good I’ll get alternative skins for the site, and let you choose your own 😉
Got a few things to do first before I get down to letting everyone be that funky!
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Site Owner Guy.And here’s the Spider that’s going into the AWD.
Less than 20mm square – welcome to Spider v2.0 (EensyWeensy) :clap:
It will be mounted to the front of the Rx cover, and still use the stock motor terminals for motor wiring. We’ve switched to 22AWG wire for the v2.0 as it handles the current fine but is easier to work with in tight mounting places.
The v2.0 will mount INSIDE the chassis of an 01!
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Site Owner Guy.Saleens are now in the Shop..
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Site Owner Guy.Outdrives, Dry Bearigns and alloy motor clip are in mine. It seems a fair touch quicker again – still running the PN SpeedyNM.
I think my next phase will be the electronics (Spider v2.0) before going for motor changes.
Have noticed (like others) that the plastic on the chassis is really poor, I’ve got heaps of stress fractures around impact points and where impact forces concentrate.
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Site Owner Guy.Ahhh excellent 😉 The iWaver/Firelap bodies have really come a long way haven’t they?
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Site Owner Guy.betty.k wrote:one issue i had was i could only include 4 images per post which includes smilies, hence my double post in my mr02 thread. no real big issue just so long as i know for future reference if it will stay that way:8ball:That’s now resolved 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.I think you still can. I will have to turn off the old systems PM function… But although they were supposed to import int he new system they didn’t 🙁
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Site Owner Guy.mmm Interesting – I’ll bump it up a bit methinks 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.Attach to the motor terminals from what I can tell of the box packaging.
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Site Owner Guy.I’ve got some more work to do on things today 🙂 Hopefully a few issues people have found will be resolved…
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Site Owner Guy.No – it kills more – in a nice tight cluster, ideal for getting something replaced under warranty. The goal is to get the screen over the warranty replacement threshold.
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Site Owner Guy.I’ve heard a blow to a LCD with a rubber round ended type device can “kill” pixels quite effectively.
Unfortunately if you hit too hard and crack anythign (glass etc) no warranty at all…
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Site Owner Guy.Just to note, we will be stocking TopCad CVDs shortly, I am told they are perfect, but will believe it when I get a test set into the car…So far though TopCad has not let us down…
BTW iWaver are doing a bunch of Alloy for the MA010 as well, probably the best option for the colour purists as everything will be available in their 4 colour range.
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Site Owner Guy.Outdrives are the little half shafts that go from the diff to the drive cups for the CV joints….
PN has some nice alloy ones (arrived today)
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Site Owner Guy.Outdrives are the little half shafts that go from the diff to the drive cups for the CV joints….
PN has some nice alloy ones (arrived today)
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Site Owner Guy.PN Outdrives, Dry bearings and alloy motor heatsink should be in mine by the end of the week.
Outdrives, bearing washer, heatsink will all be in the shop within 24 hours.
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Site Owner Guy.PN Outdrives, Dry bearings and alloy motor heatsink should be in mine by the end of the week.
Outdrives, bearing washer, heatsink will all be in the shop within 24 hours.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah- I happent o have a pack of shims here 🙂
Not listed becuase I intended to use them for testing something here but they’re yours 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.As a note too – StepFET is gone and done with. Instead Spider2 has been designed to be mounted inside a MR01 chassis. Now thats a trick thing 🙂
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