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Check out the RPM Equivalency Table at http://www.questformadness.com to see the theoretical RPM gains/losses with different combinations of motors and gears.
Thanks I ordered the Nissan GTR 34 off Toyeast and it comes with the 2.2 and I was just wonderin how much of an improvement that would be even though it was cheaper than some of the 1.0 motored Bit Char-g cars at a measly $23.40 :smiley4:
Hey
Yeh theres a massive difference between the 1.0 and 2.2 motor
In acceleration and speed, the 1.0 just doesnt cut it compared to other motors, i guess the 1.0 motor can be called the “beginners” motor as it gets you used to controlling these things
Thats my point anyway, i wouldnt bother with a 1.0, and if your thinking of getting a 2.2 or 2.6 motor etc you should 🙂
Yes, no new cars yet.
EEK!!! poor dude!
that was damn messy!
so now you have it working tho, whats it like?
OOPS! P.S. how much of a difference is their speed/power-wise from the 1.0 engine to the 2.2? Thanks again.
Hello all, I have also purchased a 3.0 as well as a 3.8 and have not experienced any of the above simptoms. A friend of mine also purchased a Bit Char-g with a 3.0 and i noticed that his gears were fitted a little different that mine. Just wondering if maybe some of you are fitting your gears a little tight and causing binding. With the lack of torque from thehigher rpm motor, you cant get the gears to spin without a little help. Might check it out…
Hey guys, I’m in the same boat as you all. My 3.0 seems really sluggish, doesn’t spin the gears sometimes, and just seems really slow (overall) compared to my 2.6.
What a rip-off! Why does the package say Bit Char-G on it if it were only intended for the Bit Racer!?:smiley7:
Yes, guys, they are the “OEM bullets”
DJ
I cut it, and WOW it goes so much further now.
I opened up the controller on my rev evo(35mhz) and accoarding to QFM it says the cripple capacitor should have L3 and R9 touching eachother but on my controller it has L3 and B3 wired together. Help! Should I cut it?
update: radio shack’s stock was limited but i got a bunch of stuff. i only worked on the ‘L3’ resistor (the one from the antenna). the one on my 27mhz car is 4.9ohm. the one on my friends 35mhz spec ed car (with cripple cap)is 2.2ohm. i replaced the resistor with a piece of wire and the range got worse although i might have messed up doing that. i also tried a 220kohm resistor for the hell of it which made the range extremely bad. so that tells me that the L3 resistor does have an impact on the range. next to try is: get a 2.2ohm resistor and try that, retry the piece of wire, replace the C3 cap with a 104 cap and then play with the transistors.
Matt
Yes, the headlights of the WRX are painted on the inside, but scraping that paint off isn’t too difficult. And the rear lights are painted red with a transparent paint.
Toyota Bb also has clear lights.
Is that really a problem? Does it work otherwise?
they’re “OEM’s” if i remember a topic from a while back…
-dan
Far from it- If you want a cheap car to either race stock or extensively modify- get OEM. If you want good quality and compatibility with all option parts, get the TOMY’s. Basically. OEM is NOT OEM by the traditional definition of the term. OEM Bit CHar-G range from near-exact copies of TOMY’s to vehicles that have different length, wheelbase, motor connections (some even hardwired) and gearing systems. A real OEM would be exact to specifications and indistinguishable except for the lack of retail markings, however none such exists. The closest to this are the hobbico and hotwheels releases, but these are lisenced, not OEM.
-dan
Sorry, but that’s old news. Check out http://www.endlesswaltz.net/bdrift/bitcharq.htmfor a review.
Help!!!! Okay I’m confused but which of the different cars mentioned on this website is ike the Micro Racer at http://www.firebox.com/ ? From what I could tell it was the bit charge car though when I went to the Tomica website I could only findhorribly immature looking ones that were said to be for children 5 years and older. I knew nothing of the different motors and (1.0 2.2 etc.) until I came to this website and I was wondering if the ones on the aforementioned website are like the ones that you all have. I’m horribly confused. Thanks
Yes- Bit Racer was the first in TOMY’s “Bit” Hobby line, compared to the Bit Char-G, it’s missing Reciever, antenna, and steering systems. In addition, the controller is nothign more than a battery and charging plate containing no transmitter or controls. Thus the addition of all this radio circuitry makes Bit Char-G more expensive. Bit Char-G is the combination of Bit Racer battery, motor, and chassis techniques with Char-G radio system (A larger RC car TOMY made a few years back) I’m pretty sure that the drive system from the Bit racers can be used on bit char-g but, short of one to try, I’m not certain. Guaranteed, it does use a 3:1 ratio or close, which is much lower than the bit char-g ratios 8, 9, 12 but is a lighter car and more “disposable” so this might explain TOMY’s lower tolerances of QC and design with the bit racer parts as compared to bit char-g parts.
One item of interest to me from the bit char-g setsis a “temperature gague heat sink” which I have not been able to personally get, but I’d love to know if anyone else knows if this is some sort of clip with a color-changing finish or similar that varies with heat
-dan
From what I remember, the 2.2 motor versions were first- sets G00-G04, followed by the 1.0 motors G05-G08, G10-G22, Disney Resort Cruiser, then a jump back to the 2.2 with booster sets GM101-GM104 and with the special edition SE01-SE04 at 2.6. So far I haven’t seen any official TOMY 2.0 motor in Japanese or US product lines, although mention has been made several times. Also if there’s no frequency logo painted on the reciever cover there’s a good chance it’s not genuine. The practice of putting dots on the rx/tx seems vaguely familiar from mid-80’s rc toys, but I hadn’t seen it since. I’d suggest ordering a 4-frequency controller and just testing to se what frequencies are used by what color. And in the process, if the cars go backwards, then you know it’s an OEM, not a TOMY.
-dan
Most of the cars seem to have lighter coats of paint over the headlights. If you’re patient enough, it’s pretty simple to scrape off the paint over the headlights with an xacto blade broken to a small square end.
-dan
Have just bought Blue Skyline from UK Toys R Us, Havent checked for Cripple Cap yet, but range seems to be a good 10 feet or so straight out of the box.
Unfortunately bought it for a mate, still waiting for my red evo to turn up from Toyeast. Where is that Postman!!
Yeah, thanks Chewy, but I’m pretty much up with the play on OEMs. This place is the capital of knock-offs, we get everything from Japan and China. I’ve seen the Tree knock-offs that copied Tomy’s packaging almost exactly. Of course they only coped one box and it’s luck of the draw as to what’s inside. Kinda funny though.
The cars I’m talking about are definitely Tomy. The big department stores won’t sell anything too dodgy and it seems they’re all selling these strangely packaged Tomys. Most stores have a display that includes the Tomy video and they stock official spares as well as the Bit racer parts. The cars are quality, trust me, I’ve got 3, there’s no way they’re copies. It must just be some kind of repackaging thing for the Singapore market – dunno. I found one or two places, generally the more expensive specialist shops that sell the special eds etc and their packaging is accurate. As for the big department stores and ToysRus etc, I think there are 3 or 4 box variations, they very rarely show the right colour, sometimes the right car and never the right frequency – they all show 27mhz regardless. As I said, for some reason they’ve covered the frequency box on the electronics covers with a little coloured dot. I guess each colour is a frequency. But then I’m fairly sure there are more than 4. I’m just going to have to ask to open a few boxes. Oh, and just to confuse matters, some don’t have stickers but do have it printed so you can see (for some reason it’s usually the Open Decks) and still others, have nothing at all. Very strange.
I suspect the big stores here jumped on the bandwagon early and bulk purchased a whole heap of one of the first production runs. There arn’t many of the new bodies around or the 2.0, 2.2, motor versions that came out later. Still, the benefit is, they’re real Tomys, they’re plentiful and they’re cheap so what the heck. Worth the inconvenience.
Nick.
maybe this “bigger resistor leading to antenna” is what is crippling my booster controller!!! 😀
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