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For physical changes to the body…

Here’s a little information from amember ofThe Admiral’s Lair about modifying a HO slotcar body.

Here’s a Japanese article about modifying a Bit Char-G body into a BMW. The pictures give you a pretty good idea, but using a translator like Babelfish helps out with the text–if only a little.

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i want em to make a 2002 Mini Cooper S just like this

http://www.mini2.com/gallery/personal/swerks/dsilver_blk.jpg

so i have sumthin to play with till i pick my 1:1 scale modelup in september:)

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What if I have a 57mhz w/ no cap, but has really short range and constant studdering? Any suggestions?

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What if I opened up the controller and there is no compacitor, yet my range is still horrible? The car studders constantly and there seems to be tremendous interference? Can anyone help? I 4 cars and the only one that seems to be having problems is the 57mhz?

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Thnx, even tho i dont have a jigsaw ill ask me neighbors 🙂

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Thanks, DJ

yeah, guess I wasn’t being too sneaky about the door numbers. I figure’d it’d be a easy way to keep track.

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Or you could use a jigsaw with the finest blade you have. Thtat’s what i plan to make my track out with once i get started on it. Dave

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Hey Kevan!

Welcome to the forums. I encountered the same nightmare with my first foam cutting exercise. My workaround was a 32TPI (Teeth per inch) hacksaw blade.

However, having seen my messy results, other members on ausmicro.com advised that there is actually a product called a “Hot Wire Foam Cutter” available (about USD10.00). It cuts though the stuff like the proverbial hot knife through butter!

Cheers

Derek

(Fellow foam-cutting victim)

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As far as I can tell, the capacitor is not always

present: for example I never found it in 45Mhz and 27Mhz units,

and only dome of the 57Mhz and 35Mhz units do have it. What I did

notice is that the remotes with the capacitor installed had a

significatively lower range.

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Great photo once again, Aquila.

One little touch I noticed (that I thought, “What a great f#%*ing idea!”) was the door numbering which, I assume, corresponds with the frequency of the controllers.

Love it!

Derek
(Running late for work! – Eeeeeeeeeeeek)

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Greetings LanternRouge!

Like the case!

And I am jealous of your Spec.Ed Collection!

Floyd

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yeah, I was trying to think of something that would look good on the black/white car…so I did a graduated fade on the rally checks…turned oout better than I thought it would. There’s also a Kanji on the hood, a few toyota/corrolla GTS logos and some 80’s era TOMY logos..

OH! and it says CHAR-G, accross the spoiler, in the stretched corolla font.

Littering the Focus mod with FORD logos certainly hleped make it look more Ford-like…it was still looking very Pugoet up to that point.

-aquila out

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A motley crew if I do say so myself.

Would that be agradated Checker pattern on that Trueno?

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A two-for-the price-of-one reply

> But looks to be more of a novelty than anything else.

Absolutely. Good for kids though, if you want to keen them away from your real Char-Gs!

> Are the internals the same as regular Bit Char G’s?

Aye. Same size, anyway. Only visible differenceare the steering coils, which have been dyed RED for God-only-know what reason.

> (You say it’s shorter…where did they shorten it?)

Length – mainly front axle to bumper and rear axle to bumper (a couple of mm off each)

> I bet that it effects it’s propensity to flip over on sharp turns, doesn’t it?

Not really. Actually – it looks a couple of mm WIDER, too (just took a closer look). Stability might actually be a little better….

> Excellent summary Derek!
> And now for the 64.00 dollar (Australian dollar? ) question.

LOL…. the USD33.00 dollar equivalent question

> Can the multi-band controller be used to control these? Or
> is it pretty much the same as the OEM cars?

Yep – once again they’ve put a code change in. This time they operate on the “B” channel, however, the throttle signals are reversed! If you use a multi-controller FWD=REV. But they keep LEFT=LEFT and RIGHT=RIGHT, which means you can’t turn the remote upside down to use, either. Bum!

Cheers

Derek

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ZeroBXU

The donor car was an OEM Light-Up car (ie cheap body that I wouldn’t stress on if I killed it!). I’m guessing the 5spoke wheels are just there to….um…. be different from the genuine Char-G?

Derek
(Off to work)

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Looking good, ZeroBXU!

Will have to order another Blue rex body in preparation of their readiness!

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

Derek

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Hey LanternRouge – welcome aboard!

Lovethe case mod (care to post some more info about it – ie source of the donor case?)and the 2sp WRX (just like a 1:1 rex with turbo – wh0oo00o0o)

Cheers

Derek

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Hi Stormin

These concept pix are doing the rounds at the moment. The versions that I got had the following file names (with links to local images on ausmicro.com):

• G-21_Honda-NSX-R-white.jpg
• G-22_Toyota-Supra-silver.jpg
• G-23_Skyline-Set-R2000-R32-R34.jpg
• GM-09_Mitsubishi-WRC-EVO-VII.jpg
• GM-11_Toyota-Supra-Japanese-Cup.jpg

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On another note, I’m awaiting some photos of the special 2002 V35 GT Skyline that TOMY will be releasing in conjunction with NISSAN JAPAN. No signs of the micro sale car yet, but you can see the 1:1 scale car right here

Cheers

Derek

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Too Freaking cool man!

BTW, Johnny Lightning sells decal sheets with some of their cars. And it has stuff like Hoosier, Hurst, STP and other American Muscle logos at the time. And they are perfect size for Bit Char G’s.

-Floyd

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here it is…I know the pic is lousy…I was using our camera at work…it’s a cheapy.

I’m currently trying to make black-outs for the headlamps, so it looks more like the pro-rally version, with the small bullet lamps, instead of the big, bug-eyed lamps we get on the production model WRC…hmmm also need to make those pie-plate sized foglamps…

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great looking graphics!

I am working on a similar look for my WRX…I’m doing a white on blue STI / PORDRIVE / SWRT.com / PIRELLI theme…

I need to look into some of that decal paper…so I can use a regular printer with better resolution – the decal printer at work is way cool, but it’s DPI sucks, its designed to do large-format stuff (billboards / real vehicle graphics) so the resolution and color registry blows at Bit-size….

I’ll post a pic soon

-aq out

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Whoops.. Sorry about that Y. I will mail some of my flying budys and find out where they are getting their toys now a days:)

b.

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Well… the Evo VII rally body saves me the trouble of doing that one.

There goes my checking account again…

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Lantern Rouge – I don’t mind making them public at all. As a matter o’ fact, that was the whole plan. I’ll be using some blank wet-transfer decal paper I already have for this project–just make sure you buyclear decal paper, and not white decal paper.

I just did a test-print of a couple of the graphics (in a Word document) through the color laser printer, and the results were even better than I could’ve hoped for! I could still read the micro-sized KENWOOD logo for the pillars!

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Here’s a link for water slide decal paper.

http://www.supercaldecals.com/

Instructions are on the site, but here’s the jist of it:

1. Print images on decal sheets.

2. Spray with Krylon (or some other type of clear coat finish) and let dry.

3. Ready for use!

zeroBXU, I hope you don’t mind making them public. You would save me alot of pain and suffering, since I don’t have any graphic skills whatsoever.

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