Admin
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
this is wat he is saying!! look under the motor and u should see a metal tab!! out it at a 3 o clock possition!!
i always do this and i dont seem to have any trouble with my 3.0!! its works fine!! my favourite!! pow pow
no stars for me?wat do i have?
Hey
Well i dont have a 3.0 altho i could get one, but yeh maybe a 3.0 would be alright casue we wont some top speed. Im ordering some 3.5s tomorrow so i reckon we could race them instead when they arrive! see you soon !
Radio Shack Zip Zap Barriers. 9.99 a box, 4 boxes. Thanks for the props, guys.
where did you get your barriers?
where did you get your barriers?
exactly DaveF, thats why i stated ‘clear’ plastic barrier strips specifically so that the ads can be reverse stuck onto them.
well i would say mine isa bit more of a profesional track where its not designed to be easy but to be challenging instead. as i mentioned its all to do with racing lines (on the road) and knowing where the overtaking spots are so… probably a little frustrating for beginners but it should catch on relatively quickly…
but because its 15cm wide all the way around it shouldn’t be too hard to manouver around anyway considering that the loews hairpin is well wide enough for 2 char-g’s to race around it side by side.
but as i said it will be the better racers who will be heading onto the main straight first because of the acquired skills of control that you get from practice and (for me) watching lots of f1.
Hello all, ibought a silver s2000 57mhz set about a month ago, and i just bought a 4 band remote, and i agree the range is terrible, it stutters after about 2 metres. there doesnt appear to be any cripple capacitor in there, although i removed the one that was on theboard of thecar. If anyone finds a way to improve range on the 4-band, it would be great. Thanks.
Ive got a booster automodelissta 27mhz set the other day and well range sucked so after lookin on net i removed crippler capicitor from car and slight improvement.Next day was lookin on web again and it said that there mite b one in my controller.couldnt find it where it saidbut found one with similar number.snipped a leg off and nothin worked.So dont clip off the thing in controller with no.24 on it coz it not work but i fixed it with some solder.
Ok have to echo Croms question, I need to know what current and voltages and how long it takes to peak charge my bit.
PRabbit build a AC Charger and I would like to use his idea but be able to charge several cars at a time and also charge normal bits, NiMH bits and Dual Bits. My biggest question for you EEs out there is how does the voltage affect the charge. the bits are 1.2v and 2.4v but the controlers are 3v (reality about 2.1 or lower). I have a variable voltage DC Charger which does 1.5-12V at 300mAh I also have 2 other at 4.5v 800mAh and 6v at 600mAh which one would work and for which car?
The base is 6×4.
Springs!!! Well I have some good news. (No specs yets sorry) But the springs i do have work totally awsome!!! Even better than I thought. Ok lets see if i can describe what is going on. The springs are tappered so you neede to cut of the tappered end and then cut the spring to size, well that is what I thought. YOU DO NOT NEED TO CUT OFF THE TAPERED END!!!! At first attempt the tapered end doesn’t fit but ifyou screw the spring on it widens the spring and it fits and tight too. What that means is that the precision of the spring height doesn’t need to be exact!!! Using something small and sharp you can move the spring up the rod to the height you would like the springs set at. Note that you have to get pretty close but just slightly smaller than you need. But by adjusting where the spring sits on the rod you are able to fine tun the height of the car!
On a second note – I have NO clue why you would want the rare earth metals over the magnet there… just saw it in a mod. I guess I should thing whether all mods are benefitial. :smiley9: If anyone has a thought one way or not let us know.
Ok yet another subject… tailskids, anyone have any ideas how to build one or RATHER where to get the parts???
Something is amuck… http://www.batterystation.com/nicads.htmlists the battery sizes also and first thing is that the N50-aaa are listed as 1/3 AAA. The size listed for that battery is 10.5×16
now the NiMH 1/3 aaa are listed at 10×15 making them smaller and still usable. This information can be verified at http://tinyrc.com/qfm/racing/mod_04.htm#14where it describes the type of battery and how the NiMH are slightly smaller.
But as far as micro_Amps was stating, I would agree with him that from that site you should order the 1/4aaa, since they state that battery is the one for microcars.
The other question is – Is there a difference between battery sizes between the courntries??? Maybe and then again it could be that one store labels them different from the next. So thx to micro_Amps for bringing out the fact that you should LOOK very closely at the battery size of what you are ording!
OH as i was surfing for this post it occurs to me the Problem… DUH, it is the brand of battery you are buying!!! I found another site http://www.tperc.com/tpespecsNiMH.htmlthat has the size for a 1/3aaa listed as 10×13.7… quite a bit shorter than what is needed. And so watch out and also watch for whether the battery is NiCad or NiMH
its the new forum conspiracy to make ppl dizzy 🙂
keep up the good work aaron..Project: R32 Skyline GTSt
http://www.projectskyline.tki went to my local toyworld and they said they’ve got some more on the way and should be here in about a week
what motors should we run at Barrell? I use a 3.? and I can get overeight laps off one charge. I can get these motors fairly cheap too.
AdamC
I dont have the info on me now, but when i purchased from battery world, i just said that i need a 1/3 AA battery around 100 – 160 NIMh i think thats what it is and they looked it up in the book, they should know what you need if you speak to the right person, if not ill post here with correct info later.
Yeah, a few bucks sounds good Barrell. And the more people that we get the better so that we can either lower the price or maybe get a clear body kit each made up from A & R Models and a couple of stickers/transfers. We’d have to bring our own coffee/beer/tea as well.
I bought an Edge Runner today for $25 from Target as it was on clearance sale. I’m just charging the batts now (four hours, yawn) but I’ll tell u how it goes.
Thanks for the support Guys,
Man your track looks way cool! what have you used for the base and paint?
I used the side from an old packing crate I scored from work for the base. Its about 10mm thick but the ply is really poor quality and wouldn’t have made a very smooth/good track surface. So I bought a few sheets of 3.5mm thick MDF or ‘Craftwood’ to make the new surface. That allowed me to sink the surface of the bridge down flush with the rest of the track. I have so far put on one coat of Blackboard Paint as the track surface, but I got a bit of dust and crap in the paint before it dried, so I have rubbed it back a bit and now I’m ready for the second coat (with the shed door CLOSED this time). Can’t comment on the end result yet but will keep you all informed!
the bridge looks realy smooth and i think it will handle well!
I looked at a few other tracks with bridges and they all looked really angular and square, not like a reall bridge at all.My cars just make it over from a standing start at the base of the bridge on the unpainted MDF surface and do it easy with a run up. They look coolat the moment cruisin’ up and over, and I’m not even half finished yet!!! It was only lack of traction that stopped them origionaly, so I guess once the surface is fully painted it will be better still.
i have a nano racer and two char-g’s i find when i put the pink nanoracer motor in a bit char-g it would go like a 3.0 with great acceleration! but i also am unhappy with the quality of the nanoracer
Yeah, they are a bit cheaper looking, especially in the body. I will have to try the motor swap myself. Having not tried or seen any of the Hi Po motors in a Bit I as yet have nothing much to compare with.
DaveF
How much was the MSC car at ToyWorld?
Theywere on the shelf at A$49.95. There was only the one WRX left and a heap of PT Cruisers (surprise surprise) and the box was ripped a bit so they actually knocked it down to A$45.00 for me. That was Toyworld in Devonport (Tas) a few days before Christmas, and I havn’t been back in to see if they still have any left. Very tempted to buy another one just for the speed 8)
Craz and DaveF
Yeah that MSC sounds pretty sweet, are you sure their nimh or are they nicd,
Well, I didn’t pull them out of the car when I had the thing to pieces, but the manual that came with the car definately says Ni-MH. They are really small cells, they both fit under the PCB with quite abit of room to spare!!
Genspec,
I think you’ll find the “safari styled 4WD of some type” is a Toyota Bb.
Well I thought it may be too, but on closer inspection last night, I think it could be something else? The badge moulded on the grille is oval but there are no other really distinguishing shapes to it at all. It looks like a 4 door with a tray at the back? I will have to post some pics so we can all have our guesses!!
I will also put a couple up of my MSC so you can all drool!!! lol
Have done a Dunlop bridge for my track too which has come up OK, can’t wait to get stuck into the barriers over the weekend, can’t wait to get it finished, then I will be having some serious fun!!
Yeah, does anyone know any other online shops?
Frenetics cool but they only take Credit Card..
I bought mine from Jaycar.
Can’t remember what kind of charger it was, but it did 10 AA or AAA at 1 go, either NiCads or NiMH
It was relatively cheap, but takes a while to charge though. (Doesn’t matter too much because I have enough AAAs)
Aesch 🙂
hey guys, i did try to trawl thru to check if anyone had posted what i wanted but didnt see it after a coupla pages and so am gonna ask anyway….
Does anyone have any capacitor info such as values, number on the pcb layout etc,that the cripple cap usually is, and can help peeps identify it? I looked at the transmitter of my Loctite Skyline (45Mhz) and didnt see any caps that looked like afterthoughts, although there was one that seemed to be right next to the blue aerial wire, but it was mounted and labelled properly….
Just wanted an idea of whether it could be the one or not, so if anyone has anything that could help me it would be appreciated.
Loctite Skyline 3.0 45Mhz
Nissan Fairlady Booster 3.0 57Mhz
Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 2.6 35Mhz The last two are my bro’s
Thanks Cranga,
I thought I’d try swapping motors but after it didn’t drop straight in, I didn’t want to make a mess of either or both of them.
I have a 57MHz Celica Nanaoracer and it goes well – pink motor.I have put the hard Tomy tyres on the rear (which makes it a bit more controllable) and put the Nanoracer rears on my 2.6 AE86 which runs really sweet now.
The combination of harder Nanoracer tyres on the rear, medium Bit tyres on front,with the 2.6Bit motor and soft suspension make the AE86 a joy to drive. Good for drift and it looks pretty neat when you do 180s then straight into reverse.:smiley1:
-
AuthorPosts
