CowboySiR03

[CowboySiR03]

@vroomvroom55 230456 wrote:

The li-po is 2 cells in each pack, and 3 packs, so that’s three pairs of 2 cells, but i had to make another external board next to the nelly and the pn super cap that regulates a 6v to the board to cut servo jitter and to prevent burnification of the PCB, so that involved about 10 visits to radio shack, a v2.2, and a old spider turbo, not really sure how it works but my cousin is good at all this PCB and micro component stuff so he did it for me. All i know is that he had to somehow stack the spider and the nelly for more current capability and he had to connect the nelly/spider stack in a crappy board that we got for 6 dollars at radio shackto the V2, than a bunch of high current MOSFETs and a bunch a resistors i ordered online. So if you want to be able to run the Atomic X2 hybrid with 6 lithium polymer cells, count on spending at least 400 dollars in parts just to be able to run them, let alone buying them and putting together the li-po pack with a over/undercharge board. Mounting the 3 li-po packs was a pain too becauseyou have to put 2 throught the holes in hte stiletto and one in the middle layer, right in the middle of the other 2.

I’d really love to see how incredibly jumbled all this wiring, six li-pos and three external boards is mounted an xmod…I have no doubt it’s fast on a speed checker but it’s hard to believe it’s a useable throttle on the track.

[CowboySiR03]

Maserati MC12GTR:D

[CowboySiR03]

I’ve had to scare a black bear away from entering my front door as we were having a house party…just an average everday occurance in our neck of the woods.

Wonder how this made CNNWorld considering it likely happens a lot….he does live near a kangaroo reserve after all.:D

[CowboySiR03]

The filter for words seems very stringent here…

I can spell clas like this but put another s and its cl***.

I’m not really interested in trying others though…I’m not a profane person.;)

[CowboySiR03]

http://www.geocities.jp/wild_zracing/ is where the rims can be found….they might still be on holiday.

Our club make up any rules we want so our ‘open” cl*** touring is fairly open.;) As for video/youtube, I figure that’d be pretty unlikely for I have no camera….sorry.

[CowboySiR03]

six wide ovals is enough track to fill three parking spaces in an underground car park from end to end and side to side without any real gaps. Next time we set up i’ll bring my camera.:D

I’m seriously considering this fet change for my 2.4Ghz car…right after i make heads or tails of the ICS system i bought for my computer to rid myself of the delay i figure more power is on tap.:smiley14:

[CowboySiR03]

I remember reading an article from Christian Tabush about the merits of the sp8m’s on a 2.4GHz board for a “world cup” prepped AWD he was making. If you get a chance (since I don’t recall his exact words) check his reflexracing.net site and read pt 1 of his AWD story…there you’ll find that he replaced just the top fet setup with the sp8m’s so he essentially created a 3010/sp8m mix for his board that can run quality motors that are excellent for world cup level racing events.

As for me, i have an AD band board that has a mix such as described above that is too fast for most tracks with a 37ish turn neo mag motor…it has to be turned to about 60% throttle before it is even useable on any track i build (and I have six wide oval RCP’s to connect together:smiley14: )

My mistake…8858’s were the fet I read about…

[CowboySiR03]

Not that it matters but I found these pictures in my file of RC stuff of theJetDash armature.

I liked it a lot as a basis for a really fast motor but I found it only really useful on four cell aaa…anything more is just waaayyy too much power.

I have other motors that are smoother low to mid range but for my liking the Jet shiines at full tilt.:D

[CowboySiR03]

I’m getting my conversion board soon with a module that i’ll modify to fit my Futaba 3PK.:beer:

I’m looking forward to dialing in a new glitch free car on my Futaba but I’m a bit worried about the pause between brake and reverse….any thoughts on your car and how it behaves?

[CowboySiR03]

I might consider holding off on 2.4GHz until they get the module for higher grade contorllers in place…I’ve heard of people having delay issues in throttle response and I wonder if the controller is the problem.:huh:

[CowboySiR03]

It’s not bad but it’s not a huge leap in performance. I like the fact that you have a bit more damping capabilities with the shocks but tuning wise you can get all of the same setups with various toe bars and knuckles choices.

I’d spend the money if you absolutely want to try it.

[CowboySiR03]

Watching a little “Black Adder” while modding up your new ride?

Looking sharp, ph2t.

[CowboySiR03]

Hey!

I was asked to chime in about this topic…I’ve added turbos to all the Z line-ups and the F1 is the tightest space available.

I went about in this position with a Nelly.

It fits decently and still allows for suspension movement but it can be done better.

Instead of using the shell I have, both the F2005 and F248(newer bodies) have much more space under the air intake cowling area near the back. If I was to do it again I would remove the driver from the shell and mount it right where the cockpit sits.

As for performance, it’s way too much for everyday use! The standard 3010 fets are excellent combined with an Atomic F1 motor for typical RCP track configurations but if you have a huge layout or carpet track then the Nelly or Spider would a great choice. Even with the new v4 being smaller you could definitely get some great powerplant running on your F1.

As for the aaa lithiums…don’t do it! Most lithiums at this size have really poor discharge characteristics compared to quality Ni-MH aaa’s and the glitching you’d get on your F1 board from the 7.4 volt source would make the car near impossible to control.

Been there and done that…I’ll stay at 4.8 volts for good.

[CowboySiR03]

I didn’t think it was worth starting another thread(since I’m just creating a variation of ph2t’s design) so this is where my Brushless Mini-Z is heading…

I had to scrap the F1 design because I couldn’t get the body to snap down over the RX’s cap towers. I’ve switched to a 1/24th conversion and staying for the most part with guidelines similar to ph2t’s….my only variation is keeping the RX pcb intact on the exterior so I can mange programming without having a shunt in the lines. I’ll also be able to use the RX for other 1/18th applications.

This is my status…note the custom Li-Po tray, custom disc damper plate and 1/24th scale Mercedes CLK-GTR body.

I think this’ll be some fun to run.:D

[CowboySiR03]

Still hoping for an answer about the v3 on an Evo xmod…it’d be kind of a shame to use it on that but I don’t have an un-modded Mini-Z boards A.T.M.

[CowboySiR03]

Hey Guys,

Just joined the other day to get some spider info and I thought I’d show you my progress on my BL conversion. I’m at the bench test phase(working on the setup before I decase and hardwire the servo/esc leads) but on four cells this thing is pretty fast. i don’t have a comparison yet(no track where I live and its raining) but here are some photos of fitment to an F1 alloy motor pod and the crappy bench test vid.

http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/?action=view&current=benchtest.flv

I’ll update eventually…

[CowboySiR03]

If I’m not mistaken the wire coding is different.

[CowboySiR03]

Aaron, quick (maybe stupid question) for you…

I might be installing a newly purchased Spider onto a Xmod Evo…any chance you’d know the colour coding. I found the install doc. but I believe gen 1 and Evo wiring are possibly different.

Thanks.:D

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