DaveF
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TallDude – make sure are the images are saved as JPGs. Sure, it’s not the bees knees for image quality, but it’s the best for size for the image quality it does have.
Mind you, I can be a bit thick. (Small Bit joke in there).
Seen it, liked it, pre orderred it it from HLJ.
That and the Lambourg set.So I know too then, 5 gold start boy?
Front shocks MTB. Scorpion frame, Middle of the range Shimano gear all over. Nothing flash. You?
I’d love a full on downhill bike, XT gear all over, disk brakes, dual suspension, etc… but I’m a crappy rider, so I don’t deserve it. =o)
Not much does happen in Slowbart.
Drums are great. Once you’re into it, it’s all you want to do. I could happily live and breathe it, if there was the money in it for me.
Well, my dads bigger than your dad. =o)
The Supras look great!
I play drums in a few bands, have about $16k worth of drums, which I’ll never earn back through the music industry in Hobart, and to be honest, I’m not some ledgend player, I just spend money on my passions.
I do photography. Mostly B+W arty stuff, but have shot a few weddings for friends, family shots, etc. I come from a long line of photographers.
I work with computers, which means once I’m out of the office I don’t want to know if your mouse is frozen, you can’t get the internet, or your microsoft is broken, so now I tell people I meet I’m a drummer/photographer.
I haven’t ridden my Mountain Bike for a while, but hopefully will get in some downhill runs with summer comming up.
Yeah… that’ll do.
Trash – try webshots. That’s where I have pictures of my track hosted. It’s free, but you can’t direct link an individual picture, you can only link your gallery.
The surface on my track is just exterior house paint, and it works pretty well. Primer/Undercoat would provide a better grip though, and would have been cheaper.
I’ve read about a few people with rubber track surfaces. I think they said the grip was more than they wanted, but they may have wanted to drift race, which is near impossible with these things anyway.
nice looking track. I notice it’s possible to cut off areas to make another 2 smaller tracks too. Nice design.
That would be awesome, though I’d have to extend the starters grid on my track around a corner. =o)
Best motor for control is a 1.0. Best all round motor would be a 2.2 or a 2.6 – good combination of speed and control. Best motor for speed… well, the higher the number the faster the motor.
Quality of product. most people agree that Tomy Bit Char-Gs are the best for consistant quality. Just about every company produces lemons, but Tomy seem to have less of them reaching the showroom floor. They re the original, or if not the original, then the industry standard – all other brands are considerred as clones.
Getting your hands on one in Melbourne. Well, Kmart, and some other bigger shops will stock them. You’ll havea very limited range, and no accesories are available.
The best way to get them is from Barrel (find him on this site… actually I’m suprised he hasn’t replied first.), or through an online hobby shop in Asia, like HLJ, or ToyEast. You end up waiting for delivery, but you get a better range to choose from, plus all the extras are available. I use HLJ (Hobby Link Japan). See the links page on this site for their web addresses.
Best motor for control is a 1.0. Best all round motor would be a 2.2 or a 2.6 – good combination of speed and control. Best motor for speed… well, the higher the number the faster the motor.
Quality of product. most people agree that Tomy Bit Char-Gs are the best for consistant quality. Just about every company produces lemons, but Tomy seem to have less of them reaching the showroom floor. They’re the original, or if not the original, then the industry standard – all other brands are considerred as clones.
Getting your hands on one in Melbourne. Well, Kmart, and some other bigger shops will stock them. You’ll havea very limited range, and no accesories are available.
The best way to get them is from Barrel (find him on this site… actually I’m suprised he hasn’t replied first.), or through an online hobby shop in Asia, like HLJ, or ToyEast. You end up waiting for delivery, but you get a better range to choose from, plus all the extras are available. I use HLJ (Hobby Link Japan). See the links page on this site for their web addresses.
Yeah people Get your photos together, and update your gallery.
Barto – because racks are a pain to drag around. about 6 times the metal, thus weight of a single stand, longer, and more cumbersome. They just found them to be a real pain inthe bum.
Oh, and Aaron. Give us a hint mate. C’mon!
he says, playing dumb. =o)
KingRX7, sounds like you told the site to use an Avatar that lives somewhere on a site that blocks people pinching their stuff. It’sa pain, but it happens.
If you can’t type the address of the Avatar in the address bar and have it appear, it won’t work as an Avatar. After that test, you still oinly have a 90% chance, and it’s all the site hosting the images fault, not AusMicro.
Yeah. Acts as a blocker. Even thick dull paint would do – absorbs the light.
What looks like Neons are basically lines traced with a torch, and an extra long exposure (I’m a photographer too).
It’s a Brady kit (Jarrah) and Snare (Wandoo block). The little drummer guy is made from bent wire by a local artist at the market.
The kit is Purple, the snare is a satin wood finish. I play Zildjians (just got a 20″ Custom K ride on the weekend in Melbourne), and I’m slowly selling off all my Paiste gear. Wanna buy some Signature Medium hats?
That’s a nice looking kit your going to buy. Be wary of getting racks, everyone I know that got a rack, sold it within 2 years and went back to stands.
Barto… another drummer. Did I know you were a drummer? Check out my kit in the only online photo I have of it
Yet again, great work man! I always wonderred about painting the sides of the LED with reflective mirror or silver paint, to try and concentrate the light out the front of the LED, not up through the bonnet, but you’ve found another good solution. I also dislike the light fromthe headlights appearing under the car, but you seem to have gotten rid of that too… might be the LEDs you use. Cool.
Aren’t there smaller switches for computer boards and stuff, or am I just not picking up the true scale of that switch. I know you know your stuff ph2t and it’s a great mod. I’m just wonderring if there’s room to have a seperate switch for battery and lights.
The one I sent to ph2t was based on the Dick Smith dice kit, as well as several other dice kits from electronic magazines my dad has when I was a kid. It’s a common design (infact, one of the mags had a KITT car light kit, but for a 1:1 car). The PCB is ph2ts design, and is very nice, especially for the size.
Cool. Can you spot where I went wrong? I know I was close with one of them, because it worked, it was just too fast. I’d love to get this working for home. It’s make racing a little more realistic. I’ve got the design for the light bridge for over the track in my head already. =o)
ph2t… did you get the schematics? Are they of any use? I know they’re close.
Do you hear the motor spinning at all?
Do the front wheels move when you press left/right on the controller?
Can you test a different motor in this car?more details please.
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