kevsta
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Excellent. What motor are you running TD ?
Not many people going lately, everyone over it and moved on to girlfriends ? Girlfriends and rc don’t mix. They’d rather you spend time with them clothes shopping as oppose to playing rc.
5 cents.
To remove them, I use pointy tip pliers an pry from the sides where those two little slots are. Doing a bit from each side until it comes out…
For the bearings in the standard motor mount, I use the same as Dgs, allen key pushing the bearing from the other side.
Oh.. cleaned my bearings, and boy oh boy, do they keep spinning much better than new. It also solved by flying wheel nut problem, and the Z just keeps on rolling.
🙂
Yeah negative camber gets your fat wheels to remain under your wheel arches brother.
Thanks for sharing this very useful information that you can’t get from anywhere else on the web.
I like the thought of having the rear axle spin for more than a minute…or a wheel even…
Cheers,
K.🙂
Check the code for the h-plate at the kyosho website first. I think toyeast might have the wrong photo there. Don’t mr02rm use a T-plate ?
Quote:Wont have to do that again as of this week thoughBeen ebay shopping have we ? Checked out those titanium coloured narrow alloy rims with tyres with the buy it now for $19.95 ?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5915131596&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
Be quick…
K.
Quote:I might as well put what I do then… its already half here… overnight soak in turps, clean out in prepsol/low grade thinners (not for long if thinners!!!), dry, dremel. Install. Spin. Go to the shops, buy beer. Return, still spinning. Questions??:DEdited by – dgs73 on 17 August 2004 16:04:23
Wow.. thats a lot of work. I would do it too if it wasn’t so damn difficult in getting the bearings out from kyosho plastic wheels.
Hmmm… a dremel – Don’t have one of these expensive buggers. Might have to settle for a $20 rechargeable made in china one which has bugger all power but will probably do the job of spinning a bearing or commutator/armature.
Quote:Jamie and I have nutted this one out too… dry bearings are alot faster, but the trade off is lifetime of the bearings… plus they do seize up every now and then (at least mine do!), but easy to fix. All my other cars run factory greased bearingsI cleaned out my factory greased bearings with pcb cleaner and they actually spin much better than from the factory if that makes sense.
So general consensus is to leave them dry…
Good Good.
🙂
Quote:ahwell guys looks like another cold day, well i guess its winter after all!ill be ther this sunday without sleep but wats new aye.
what motor are you gettin kevsta? plasma dash????????
i really want to run my z to see if its werkin good now :question:
I’m not going to be there this coming Sunday. Got family stuff on.
As for the motor, nope no plasma dash. A stock one of these on load will only do 25,000 rpm and I simply don’t have the knowledge on how to rewind them with thicker wire or put in neo magnets/bearings/brushes. So I’m simply just going to buy an off the shelf performance one. 🙂
K.
Quote:Well, this was not a good day for much of anything — especially not to be working on the new diff!!
Got to breaking down the new diff to install the delrin gear and ….. the danged little c-clamp decided to take a prolonged vacation to parts unknown and to never be seen again. :dead: Guess I’ll spend a good deal of the next couple days scouring the local hardware stores to try to find a replacement. I already know they don’t carry metric screws or nuts that small. :8ball:I don’t think you’ll find them at hardware shops your best bet would be to try a local rc hobby store. I know tamiya carry them in bags of 10 and should only set you back a couple of dollars.
😀It was a good day I thought. I had 6 sets of fresh batteries and wanted to stay back a lot longer but the cold wind was giving me a runny nose.
I guess the good thing about it was that the motors were getting some cooling while they were being run.
Next time I’ll be running a hotter motor so expect some decent competition. :smiley2::D
Gotta review the handling of my skyline though…
I think I definitely need the hard yellow springs for the roll shocks because the hard h-plate just don’t cut it.K.
Quote:yeah not coming this sunday
yeah i cleaned out the servo pot, im hoping for the best now
Make sure antenna is screwed down tight.
I’m going to be doing the same with the second mr01 this weekend. Hope she doesn’t give me the death wobbles.
K.
So I take it you’re not coming this Sunday ?
Cleaned the servo pot yet ?
Quote:Quote:Quote:what do you want for it mate? Will bring extra $$ for you if you’re going to be there this Sunday:D$10 AUD and it’s yours. 🙂
I bought a couple of them with the intention of converting my mr02mm to mr1.5 – but that’s all changed now that I have a second mr01. I’m just going to run the mr02 as a mm and win all the track races.
Check out the following links for more info:
http://www.zero-products.com/products.php?id=0000000014
http://mini-zracing.com/archives/000085.html
http://mini-zracer.com/shop/product.php?pid=855I am coming this Sunday – got to test out the nelly.:)
K.
ifs its just a conversion plate to run MR-01 pod then i’ll give it a miss. Maybe. I’ve got two conversion plates as is, but bring it with you, I will no doubt take it anyway…:smiley2:
I don’t know what the mr02rm motor pod mounting holes look like or if they’re the same as the mr01 motor pod. But from the links they “say” its a direct replacement. I’ll bring it with me on the day and we can do some analysis. Are you able to bring a h-plate for the mr02rm so that we can compare the holes ?
The links in my first post say it should have the same handling characteristics as the O-plate for the mr01… But I haven’t tried it yet so can’t tell you if it really does. 😀
Oh, it’s not carbon fiber either. It’s the other stuff graphite – don’t think its available in carbon fiber?
It’s suppose to offer a little more flex than the carbon fibre one which would be ideal for slightly rougher surfaces like asphalt or the netball court surface. Sort of like running soft springs for more traction on rough surfaces.
Reminds me of when I drove around for 10 years in one of those boxy corolla twin cams with heavy duty lowered 2.5 inches racing springs – No doubt it looked good slammed to the ground but it bounced around on uneven road surfaces…:smiley16:
🙂Edited by – kevsta on 13 August 2004 10:09:27
Quote:what do you want for it mate? Will bring extra $$ for you if you’re going to be there this Sunday:D$10 AUD and it’s yours. 🙂
I bought a couple of them with the intention of converting my mr02mm to mr1.5 – but that’s all changed now that I have a second mr01. I’m just going to run the mr02 as a mm and win all the track races.
Check out the following links for more info:
http://www.zero-products.com/products.php?id=0000000014
http://mini-zracing.com/archives/000085.html
http://mini-zracer.com/shop/product.php?pid=855I am coming this Sunday – got to test out the nelly.:)
K.
Anyone interested in a brand new MZR G10 V-plate suitable for MR02MM/RM ? No roll shocks required with this baby installed.
🙂TD, don’t worry I’ve got a controller I can use with your MR02 chassis…:):):)
This may me old news to some, but during my internet surfing addiction I came across StellaModels online shop. Some things seem quite reasonably priced in comparison to other stores.
I’m getting the impression that rcrm/3racing/topcad come from the same manufacturer…? There parts look incredibly similar to each other, just external packaging is different.
http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/default.php?cPath=117
Edited by – kevsta on 11 August 2004 20:13:25
Quote:tall dude managed to change the first servo gear and im hopin for similar luck.If that don’t work just buy the yeah racing servo pot and solder it in.
Super glue it is. Don’t really want to spend any more money than necessary.
I’ll give it ago tonight.
Dgs, lucky you – you can bring your mini-z to work. If I did the same here, I would be seriously frowned upon.

Thanks for the advise guys.
Cheers.
Dgs,
Did you want me to charge up your powertech 900s for Sunday ?
Quote:Quote:Here is a bumper for a MRO1, This may help:smiley2:http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_21_76_471&products_id=193
:D:D:smiley2:
cheeky little tacker…:smiley2::D
something else to break, dat’s allI got a feeling that any hard head on smashes with that thing attached will end up stripping the screws in the chassis that hold it on.
Oh, and it will only fit cars that don’t have a low front spoiler.
🙂Quote:lotta metal for an indoor only racer Kev… TD; we’ll look into alternative methods of getting one. No vid footage btw, you wanna see, you come and see! ph2t; Nelly not enough now eh? Time to head back to the mod desk for you… Mocky; you want in on this carpet track deal eh?Yes lots of alloy, thats how I like it. It’ll eventually see the courts one day.
No video, that’s cool, I understand. :smiley16:
Let us know what the pricing will be on the carpet and if there is a url that has a photo of it.
🙂
Quote:get yourself a metal #1 servo gear too, Mocky… I cant help you this time…Edited by – dgs73 on 11 August 2004 09:11:05
I thought kyosho servo gears don’t fit an iwaver or do they now ??
Quote:dudesi got two new autoscale bodies!
a merc racer for a mr01
and a
ESSO supra for a Mr02! :D:D:D:):D
now im waitin for that mr02 chasis…………
Dave any news about that track order? or should we pursue other ways of gettin one??
Oh my.. the esso ultraflo… Where did you get it ? I’ve been eyeing that one for a while now but have been holding back on pressing that pay/checkout button.
How come you didn’t get a ready set rather than getting the chassis seperately ?
Now you got to pump another $150 into alloy parts for the mr02. You should see all the gpm alloy that I’ve got on mine.:):):)
I want to see the car & motor in action. Is it faster than Geo-z’s PN-S03 ?
This calls for some video footage.
:smiley16:
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