kevsta
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Mate, best to go for a kyosho mr01/mr02 for durability and less headaches.
@betty.k 226086 wrote:
i started working 6 days a week and i just bought battlefield 2. i’ll probably never see people again!:D :8ball:
This is an absolute awesome game. You should also check out all the mods that people have written for BF2 – they are top quality.
One thing I could never do is fly aircraft.
That looks like an 02M to me. The iwaver 02 and firelaps 2 look like a Kyosho MR02 chassis.
I’ve been playing around with the micro-t’s at the moment and messing around with the real car and playing a bit of gtr2. These forums were on fire a couple of years ago, I guess everyone eventually moves on to other things.
A couple of my mates are in the process of building a mame cabinet as well. 😀
Here’s another place to buy lipos for the micro-t that fit in the standard battery compartment.
http://www.aero-nuts.com/index.php?cPath=32_88&osCsid=5b9a2e8b4f81fab1dc7fbefdbaf74bfa
Register now, and they give you a $5USD gift voucher to redeem off your first order. 😀
I second that. Definitely the 350z booster pack is one of my favourites. I still have it along with a honda s2000, a couple of perfection booster sets with various supra shells, a trueno shell, gear sets, hot motors, heat sinks, tyres etc.
Can’t run these now because all the batteries were taken out a while back and no longer take a charge. One day, I’ll get some new batteries and revive them.
Only bought a yello vw kombi van shell a month ago too…:D
But it’s bcg’s that got me into this rc stuff along with help from members on this forum.
Zap-A-Gap from hobby shops. Much stronger than super glue. Shoe Goo allows flex but unfortunately can be peeled off with a little bit of elbow grease but the bond is no where as strong as zap-a-gap. I use this stuff to bond tyres to 1:10 rims.
mini-z is the best – sorry but had to say it. Get yourself a ma010 awd with drift rims to satisfy you urge to drift.
I’m always on the hunt for ant trails in the backyard to do burnouts on with my mini-z and micro-t… pretty sad, but it gets that way some times.
where did you get the lipo, and what part number ? 😀
I’m waiting for the 3racing alloy parts to be released. Not going to bling the thing out, just getting parts that break easily.
One issue I have is the short run times from the battery. I’m going to have to cut the wire off the supplied charger and use it with my peak charger.
Got it from ebay, rcmart is the seller $85USD and they include 2 extra battery packs and for some strange reason they threw in bearings because I think they’ve run out of those paper ramps. But be aware that there service hasn’t been as good as they use to be. They took 8 days to process payment and it wasn’t till I emailed them then they dispatched my order.
My son has been continually launching this thing off small ramps, rolling it, crashing it into our furniture and it still hasn’t broken anything. 😀
I finally got mine as well. I ended up getting the deal with the 2 free batteries.
Now I see what everyone has been saying about this little truck – it’s fantastic. I couldn’t believe how small it is, and to work on it I need tweezers because everything is so damn small. I’m surprised how well it does wheelies stock.
Out of the box, my slipper clutch was way too loose and not turning the wheels at all. Apart from that, everything is great. I’ve just installed bearings into mine…:D
You may need to buy the lay down crystal holder.
I’m running a vw beetle (mr01) body on my awd chassis, it fits but the rear of the body has a higher stance on the awd.
Something similar happen to this guy who worked on a car with the batteries in it. The antenna wire accidentally touched the battery terminals and from then on he had very little range with it.
Even 8M isn’t good. Something is definitely wrong.
Are the batteries in your radio tx fully charged.
Go to a hardware store that sells piano wire, get a piece and make a longer antenna. This might help a little, but with the stock antenna, I get at least 30 metres of range.
I actually bought a can to try out on my mini-z bearings for the hell of it. Afterall, a can of this only cost $12.
Anyway, after spraying and giving the mini-z a run the wheels do not free spin as much as they did before the teflon spray. So basically :thumbs_down:
Like what everyone’s mentioned, it’ll probaby work on larger items but not on a mini-z. I guess I should really invest in a smallish air compressor to blow the crap out of my rc bearings rather than rely on a dry lube.
LOL so not a waste of money afterall…
I was going to suggest looking at the for sale forum section at http://www.rcracer.com.au
Looking good guys, noticed that you’ve widen up the track which is great. 🙂
As what bk says, don’t buy 75Mhz. You’ll have trouble selling it here if you plan on upgrading in the future.
You don’t need all the fancy stuff. I have a futaba 3pk that I use with my 1/10 gear but couldn’t be bother reading up on all the fancy features…
I gather this was the one on Ebay that sounded to me like it had been accidentally stepped on, as kyosho mr02 battery clips don’t usually crack that easy and the other part of the chassis that was cracked as well. Oh wait, perhaps the owner used the battery clips to remove the batteries, if that’s the case then the rough handling could see them breaking as well.
After ensuring that it works as expected, you should check to see if anything is bent, eg extreme negative camber on the front knuckles, ball diff shaft, wheels which wobble like jelly when running, as well as t-plate tweak.
I haven’t played with the awd gearing because the stock motor is fast enough to drift and run on small tracks.
But generally a small tooth pinion gear is suited for small tracks where you need to punch out of the corners, where as the larger tooth pinions are more for top end speed.
I bought one as well. Temptation got the better of me.
Wow that looks pretty clean. Is it the V2 of the VDS? I’m surprised you haven’t moved to using disk dampers in the rear end yet. They’ve made my 02 handle much better than using the top shock/spring.
It’s getting difficult to source MR01 parts. I would suggest you stock up on some of the less durable parts like servo gears, front knuckles, h-plates.
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