mcojoc
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Did this to my 35 and 45 mhz cars. Using stock controllers, both receptions increased. I don’t know how much because I am able to control them in my living room ALL THE WAY TO THE OTHER END OF MY DINING ROOM… All line of sight, but I can’t drive it any further unless I remove a wall:smiley2:… It’s maxed out at 24 feet… From one end of my house to the other with me standing up.
Here are the antenna lengths AFTER the mod. The measurement is from the plastic clip on the top of the receiver to the tip of the antenna:
35mhz Before: 2 3/8 inches After: 3 5/8 inches. 4 feet or more increase in range.
45mhz Before: 2 7/8 inches After: 3 6/8 inches. 4 feet or more increase in range.
A solution to lifting the car from by the antenna may be to put a small drop of NON CA glue on the antenna where it attaches to the plastic “clip” Just before it exits the chassis and goes through the body. The clip that holds the antenna in place. Combine that AND the small amount of glue and you may have enough power to not “stress” the circuit board with rough handling.I think white gluemight be best. You can certainly work the antenna free from the clip and glue if you needed to access the insides….
I pick the car up by the body, so I didn’t even think of that as a potential problem!!!
I had 20 feet with the 35mhz car before this mod. I’ll post the results of distance after later tonight…
… Goodnight…
I’ll get them up to you tonight Derek. I’m at work right now… It was actually a relief to get my Bit char working again….The pictures are taken with a web cam, but are clear enough for you to see what was what…
F.Y.I: The bit bodies won’t fit on the O.E.M car, but the O.E.M body will fit on the bit. I didn’t even have to carve out the wheel wells, just slide the body towards the rear of the car on the chassis mount tabs after mounting it on the bit char-g.
The O.E.M Rear axle is a bit wider than the standard Bit, so that won’t work (yet)… I’m working on a mod, however I believe the gearing is standard to the regular axle so it may not make that much of a difference if you can get the axle/gear set…
The motor onthe O.E.M’s is weak in my opinion (That’s why they gear them so high!)…Plus, mine was HARD WIRED to the receiver. I’d have to cut the wires and then put contact tabs on the motor to use it in a bit char. This is different than the pictures I’ve seen that Derek has put up of his O.E.M cars, but just beware…. For me, Not worth it… :smiley6:…
Sorry guys, tried to upload pics with no luck. They were on the page before I posted it, but gone after. If anyone wants to see them let me know and I can try again…..
Derek, You are correct. 4 BAND… Not sure why I put channel. Probably frustrated…. The car is a standard Tomy model, 35mhz. I get 20 feet with the standard controller…. 2 feet and it dies with the new one. My 45mhz OEM bullet car goes just as far as the standard Tomy with it’s supplied controller as well, so I don’t know if interference could be the “cause”… The 4 band controller antenna is significantly smaller than the standard controller antenna. I’m not sure if a new one will help… Seems like quality control is hit or miss with these things. I’m seriously thinking about hooking up more than 3 volts to see if that will help the thing out.
I agree with ISOROPIA. I used an HO ‘Pin’ fed oiler for this. It distributes a very, VERY small amount of oil and it STILL gunked up the works…. I won’t even use the grease. I guess I’m paranoid now…
Not much to set up. Of course, I used it with my standard car…Here’s all I did… Let me know if I’m missing something…
set the frequency on the controller, and the a,b,c switch until I got control. Left and right steering is ok, but forward and backward are reversed. I understand that’s the way it works… Anyone have more they can contribute…
A thought: Perhaps range is better with the new 4 freq controller and the Booster car than with the 4 freq controller and the standard car. I boughta booster, but didn’t open it yet… anyone confirm or deny?
Yikes… I may have some items for sale soon….
David,
I just got an oem bullet. Good tires (very sticky rubber on my hardwood floors), good range, motor isn’t interchangable. Appears to be (can’t be sure) a 1.0 motor with higher gearing. Gearing is pretty tall (pinion is much larger than the 6 tooth on the bit char-g’s) which means the motor is weak and has to be geared taller to get reasonable speed, however torque suffers. The car takes so long to start after stopping unless fully charged. I was able to put the OEM body on my bit char g, but not vice-versa. The front appears to be the same, but I have not opened it up yet myself… I hope this helps out…My suggestion is to spring for the bit-char-g unless you just want a “toy”…
Also, I believe there is a “POT” underneath the circuit board ON the car that you can use to adjust the range. I don’t know about that however as I’ve never done it yet… If you open the car and release the circuit board, I believe that is where it is located. Then with 2 people, have one operate the car until it is out of range, then “tweak” the potentiometer on the car until you get a signal again, then have the person with the car step out of range again, and keep trying it until you can no longer get the car to respond… Anyone know of a picture on this site of the car circuit board?
I hope no one minds… Here’s the link from another site with the procedure and a picture… I hope it helps!!!
http://pub24.ezboard.com/fmartiniracingfrm1.showMessage?topicID=16.topic
Too thick. No solution I can find just yet. I’m experimenting with (of all things)…. Thin elastic thread tied around the steering arm and the screw mount….
I’ve had hair caught in the wheel on the axle and was able to get it out without disassembling the car… First thing I found out is that out of the 2 cars I have running on my living room hardwood floor, that the one that I oiled (lightly mind you!) the front axles on, attracted more dirt and hair, so I don’t do that anymore. For the ones that did, I took a sharp exact-o knife and placed the blade between the tire and steering mount on the axle and started sawing away on the metal axle. This “CUT” the hair wrapped around the axle and allowed me to use a tweezer to pull it away without having to disassemble the car or even pull off the front axle and wheel… I’vehad no problems since I stopped oiling….
I have a 27 that I took out of the box and put back in because of the range. I’m going to try the cap test and also see about adjusting the pot on the car for better range. Thanks for the info Chris!
I mentioned the guys above because of my personal order experience with them…. I figured it would be an endorsement of sorts for guys in the US looking for a place on the web that delivers expediently plus, the side by side dimensions will let people feel comfortable about making sure the ni-mh batteries would fit if purchased…
I saw that but hadn’t tried it yet. Thanks for the suggestion. They appear pretty thick, so I wonder how well the’ll do…I’ll keep everyone posted….
Mitch
Anybody else open their receiver to find no cap between L3 and R9? My transmitter shows no connection on the surface mount between them either. My reception is pretty good (about 20 feet I calculate in a straight line when I’m standing up) so I guess maybe they didn’t put one in… Any thoughts from others who found no cap either when they opened their transmitters?
Thanks guys. Working on the Transmitter hack now. I don’t see a capacitor between L3 and R9….
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