mcojoc

[mcojoc]

I have a spare OEM controller antenna… I am going to try that…

[mcojoc]

I would also like to add that since I changed out the front end of my bit char with the OEM-BULLET front end, that bump steering is reduced drastically due to the stronger spring in the OEM steering arm assembly. REMEMBER TO REVERSE THE MAGNET ON THE OEM STEERING ARM AND SECURE IT WITH SOME ZAP CA OR OTHER PERMANENT GLUE BEFORE ASSEMBLING YOUR BIT OR YOUR STEERING WILL WORK BACKWARDS! DO NOT GET GLUE ON THE SIDES, INSTEAD, PLACE A DROPON THE STEERING ARM WHERE IT “CUPS” THE MAGNET AND PLACE THE MAGNET BACK IN THE HOLDER MAKING SURE IT’s CENTERED….

P.S. BY “BUMP STEERING” I mean that the car tends to NOT change direction as a result of hitting a bump. It did change direction with the old original bit char g steering arm, magnet, spring and wheels…

[mcojoc]

EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT. Thanks SO MUCH B_drift

I just put $150.00 out for booster cars and controllers and you just made me feel I didn’t waste that money….I’ll mod the controller and post my results as well. Thanks again man.

[mcojoc]

Thanks b_drift….

[mcojoc]

b_drift: My 4 band is short range wise… My post above (see the 2nd one from the top) gave me hope that it was antenna, not electronics. Your findings would be appreciated if you have the time. Thanks for posting the mod page. I’m sure we all appreciate the effort. Don’t discount it!

[mcojoc]

Thanks mon!

[mcojoc]

Does their new controller improve the design so you don’t have to point the controller, or do you have to remove the led plate for them as well to get good control without following the car with the controller… Anyone?

[mcojoc]

how’d it work. Better? was it worth the time to swap the antenna?

[mcojoc]

EXCELLENT!!!!!!!! I’m going to try one asap.

[mcojoc]

What kind of improvement did you get in reception?Is it comparable to the existing stock controller? Can you post before/after results?

[mcojoc]

Replacements just from another car…. None from household items. The OEM cars are about $15.00 bucks each. I’d just asoon buy a replacement regular Bit instead however. Sorry, I’m not much help…

[mcojoc]

Wild…. Formula ONE!!!!!!!!! They look to be 1/43rd scale from what english I could see…..

[mcojoc]

I gots me one…. Have it in the box. Was tired of pointing the controller at it, and not being able to use it outside due to the light sensitivity issue..

Here’s a neat upside to these guys however…. I have a Phillips pronto learning remote control and I can write an interface to the remote to control the digi-q’s… IF I EVER GET 5 MINUTES OF FREE TIME.Another upside is that the range on that remote is UNBELIEVABLE, and I probably wouldn’t have to point the damn thing at the car to get it to go….

[mcojoc]

Sounds like different magnets in the 1.0 motor can might be contributing to the increase in punch and acceleration. I put a 3.0 in one of my cars last night and my 2.2 is faster off the line, butthe top speed is the same. The 2.2 has better acceleration. I did a “drag race” with the 2 cars to see what would happen. About 20 feet. The 2.2 went off like a bullet, leaving the 3.0 in the dirt, but when the 3.0 got up to speed, it didn’t lose any more ground…Same gearing. I’m trying PRABBIT’s mod with a 2.2 motor can. I have 2 burned out 2.2 motors, oneI lost last night out of the blue…(anyone else going through them like water????) I’ll post my findings as well…

P.S. During this test, The “frankenstein” car with the OEM car front end parts tracked straight as an arrow all the way through the test. The Standard bit pulled left and right… Another confirmation that my OEM mod is a good thing….:smiley4:

[mcojoc]

See the other thread on the 4 band controller concerning an Antenna swap with an older controller…. Another possibility…

[mcojoc]

Near as I can tell, He is saying that the swapping of antenna’s from the old controller to the new one increased the range 1 and 1 half the distance…. Something to try…

[mcojoc]

My super softs have gone a bit “stale” since I put them on. They aren’t as soft as they were. I soak ’em in warm water every once in a while to re-moisturize them… Yikes, sounds like a women’s hand cream commercial!

:smiley9:

[mcojoc]

Yes… I have noticed that….. Let us know how it goes! For $2.50 a battery american, it’s well worth the attempt…

Good luck!

Keep us “posted” on your results!

[mcojoc]

… While playing with my 4 band controller, I accidently rubbed the antenna up against my daughter’s metal music stand. I suddenly had all kinds of reception… more than my standard controllers!

Now I’ve heard others on the site say that a solid antenna has not improved reception, and I can’t very well carry around a music stand as an antenna, but what about something like those stick on antenna’s you see for cell phones. Small enough to be installed inside the controller, but will it help reception…

Any science types around have any suggestions?

[mcojoc]

…. Watching with great interest….

:smiley2:

[mcojoc]

Not yet, but I am interested. I’m getting 10 to 12 minutes on a 2 1/2 minuite charge right now so it’s not a major deal, but 1/2 hour of run time might be fun!…

[mcojoc]

Wow That’s weird that the charge with a different charger would cause the car to react differently as it pertained to Range….No Idea on that…

I’ve never tested charging from controller to controller. I have a 35 and 45 mhz… I did notice the 45 is “stronger” than the 35 power wise… I always thought it was the motor. I’ve never had glitching from the cars however, but I’m going to test the 35 mhz car by charging on the 45 mhz controller to see if I get a better charge. It was never an issue for me because of the way I charge the car…

I charge my car until the light goes out, then take it off to resetthe charger circuitry and then put it back on. I do this 2 or 3 times before I run the car each time I charge… That may be an option for you as well. Regardless of how good the charger is, I just don’t think 45 seconds is enough time to “peak” charge the battery however small it is. I always have good long run times, and alot of “punch” right off the controller when I do that…

[mcojoc]

Those wheels are COOL…. Nice work Prabbit…

Now every 1/87 and 1/64 scale car I look at won’t be safe….

The above is me getting ideas….

[mcojoc]

P.S. I can confirm now that the O.E.M battery is a 120mah battery…. It is labelled as a 1/4 AAA battery… It is slightly smaller height wise, and the same radius as the n-50aaa battery in the bits….

However, each battery has it’s own personality…. A 120mah battery is no fun if it’s flat the whole time you run it… If the 50mah batteryhas punch and then levels out as it discharges, I’d prefer the shorter run times for more fun with that battery… In the OEM car, the battery discharged quicky in my opinion and ran flat… If installed in the TOMY car, with thesmoother gearing Bit char-g’s, maybe it will run longer and stronger. That’s a test for another day…!!!!!!

mcojoc

[mcojoc]

I’ve sent Derek the photos. Hopefully he will have them up soon!

:smiley15:

mcojoc

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