PandaBear

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I remember driving on a ColecoVision. 🙂

But heck, wasn’t all that interested in video games. Had better things to do ‘outside’.

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heh. But 1/10 Stadium Trucks are usually 2WD not 4WD; that thing’s a weird hybrid of some sort.

TLT-1 is geared very high, too high to be a rock climber. Out of the box I think they’ll do a fair click… not sure how well they take corners at speed but the CoG isn’t all that high really.

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http://www.yourmicro.com/news/article.php?aid=14647

check that out 1:18 AWD..comes RTR with bearings and oil shocks. also comes with duratrax stress tech warranty.
the radio it comes with is a futaba and ESC (futaba again)… there is a 90% chance of one of these showing up in melbourne in about december :D…

haha… had to go more than halfway down the page for this:
“DTXC3307 380 Motor w/Connector”

why wait? :p

Tamiya TLT-1 is a bigger 1/18th and uses 540 motors!!
🙂

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If you can’t be bothered buying new sprue, there’s a good chance you could glue it back with superglue, then reinforce with epoxy.

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… i wonder what colour they have the alloy in.. if they have the same gold as the rest of it 😀

Gold? nah, have only seen them come in natural silver and TRF blue. The blue could be a ltd end run though.

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merc:- rohan, the silly PM thingy is causing some funny computer error on my terminal… can’t reply PMs. No idea why. blackeye:

Steering arm thingy (“idler”?) is K3 & K6, part of K sprue.

T50872 TAMIYA 50872 TA04 K PART DAMPER STAY $15.00 @ Metro

Or…

T53478 TAMIYA 53478 TA04 ALLOY STEERING ARMS $ 59.00

:blush:

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… wonder if it would have gone any quicker with that COLGATE POWER motor… 👿

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Yep!

Brand / +ve / -ve / signal

most / red / black / white
JR / red / brown / orange
sanwa / red / black / blue

Some older stuff has black-with-red-stripe / black / black… you’re on your own on that!! 🙂

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Which post, J? 🙂

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I watch initial D…, got the soundtracks too, my mates call it “fag music”…

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Does all those funny line-drawings in Tamiya/Kyosho/HPI manuals count? :clown:

Ranma is old, very old.
Watched that in 1991 on VHS I think… 🙂

Got the audio *soundtrack* for it even! 😀
The CD albums were very big in Japan.

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Old “AT” PSUs usually don’t need anything to trigger them ‘on’, but they might need some load balancing across the various taps. Usually done (quik-n-dirty method) by whacking on a bank of ceramics which dissipate 100-odd watts or so.

But the main problem is voltage… most of them supply only about 11.5V under load. Chargers like a clean 12V+, preferably 13.8V.

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I’ve got a tv to fix, and just worry that the capacitor might still be charged…

Heh… leave them off for 30mins and all the caps should be pretty drained, even the flyback ones.

Unless its a simple job like dry joints or an dessicated capacitors, old TVs are hard to fix. Can’t get parts, can’t get schematics…:evil:

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Templetowe was one big apple orchard back in the 1950s… and was still pretty much in the sticks in 1960s.

Today its just about “inner-suburban”. 🙂

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Honestly, unless you’re a qualified Power Electrical Engineer & a paid-up member of the IEEE, I’d avoid any mucking about with PC PSUs.

Especially if you value your charger… and Life. blackeye:

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I’ve been trialling some trinity light weight bearing oil and can’t tell the difference compared to just pumping them with fast drying moving parts cleaner spray aka wd40.

WD40 leaves behind an oily trace, its not really “dry”.

Real dry lube is graphite dust. 🙂

Trinity Royal Oil is recommended for RC but not cheap ~$15.
Probably get same results from sewing machine oil ~$3 :p,
but that’s not dyed purple.

Many different ways of removing the factory grease from BBs:
1) soak for a week in thinners, shellite, acetone etc
2) ultrasonic cleaner with shellite
3) RPM Bearing Blaster & motorspray

Works faster if the BB’s shields are removed first.

However once you’ve washed out factory grease, you’ll have
to keep maintaining the bearings regularly – else they jam.
They also live a harder (=shorter) life.

What price, speed? :smiley16:

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DON’T look at that thread to check out ph2t’s evil super MiniZ… ‘cos you’ll never be satisfied with your own vehicle again.

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pardon my ignorance, what’s castor?:8ball:

The axis that the steering knuckles operate around, on the BCG is usually 90degs perpendicular to the road surface.

If this axis is leant backwards (at the top) to less than 90degs instead… the castor effect will induce a self-straightening force when going forwards.

Without castor it’ll be very hard to balance a pushbike. And it makes it nearly impossible to balance it riding backwards.

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You should put some TRUCK tyres on that, James. Stadium truck tyres F&R work great on a buggy.

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otp, keeping it at 4.8V ensures that the RX electronics is operating withing it’s designed tolerances. Just because a few components might have 6V labeled on them doesn’t mean anything…

besides, I’m bit of a purist…

MiniZ is designed for 6V operation, rest assured.

4x 1.5V = 6.0V… 🙂

(And probably a bit more headroom too to survive the crazy Tasmanians amongst us. :p)

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Might be an idea to recreate the chassis using aluminium U-channel, and place everything close to the axle height – as low as possible. 🙂

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Where you’ve got a bearing’d wheel running on a stationary front axle, a flanged nut is the last thing you’d want. The nut unscrews due to friction with the wheel.*

Flanged nut is good for spreading the force out over the plastic it chews on, that’s all.

*stationary axle.. wheel falls off LHS first?
Rotating axle, wheel falls off RHS first?

Cars with a single wheelnut should have a reverse thread on one side, I forget which. :blush: Will confirm next time I get to drive a Carrera GT. :clown:

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Superglue should work.

Or how about replacing the nut with a collar & grubscrew?

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Did ya kiss the wookie, betty?:clown:

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If you could time how long the transistor is ‘on’ (beam interrupted) and you’d know how long the car is, you could deciper HOW FAST the car is going from each & every light-beam setup.

Yeah you’re right. This has gone from cool to geeky. :clown:

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If you could time how long the transistor is ‘on’ (beam interrupted) and you’d know how long the car is, you could deciper HOW FAST the car is going from each & every light-beam setup.

Yeah you’re right. This has gone from cool to geeky. :clown:

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Gee James, old boy.

Isn’t a subject like “3000 posts for jamiekulhanek” a bit of an invite for a pot shot? 🙂

Wonder what ‘Admin’ has in store for your celebration! :clown:

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