PandaBear
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BL has got too much torque for FWD, it’ll go nowhere.
Would evaporate the front tyres pretty quickly…But yeah, if Leon hadn’t put his hand up so quick, I’d
have gone and maybe tried it out in an M03… 😀Had this wierd idea of making a twin-BL monster (having multiple BLs all on the workbench does crazy things to the mind) but decided it might confuse these motors by working in tandem.
Ahh, safer just to remove the temptation.
Quote:.. Mini running touring car (55mm) instead of the mini wheels…:smiley2:
Now looking for a body that fits; Frewer’s Mini Cooper-S is too tight around the flared wheelarches and doesn’t look good if they’re chopped off to clear the wheels.
Maybe one of the old HPI shells might be nice.
Especially that VW Combi van… :smiley16:Not as annoyed as I am…
The idiot seems to have gotten access to their email database and is spamming members??
I’m getting one “hahaha” message every, uh, 5 mins??!
If anyone knows “Hacked By- alkasr al mahe”, somebody report him/them for terrorist activities. That should be enough retributory annoyance… hahaha.
Same here… hideously dangerous when the silly credit card
companies think one’s good enough for ridiculous credit levels. :dead::shock:(bugger, pmt due this wk…)
Quote:im interested in getting started in 1:12 scale mini tamiya’s, what are the costs involved in racing them? what would i need?If you mean the Tamiya M03 FWD Minis, they’re 1/10.
(165mm track and 210mm wheelbase.)Probably the cheapest 1/10 racing out there; new cost:-
-M03 car kit ~$250
-bearings $30
-SportTuned motor $30
-Radio set: stick=$80, wheel=$130 and up
-ESC $80 and up
-good tyres & inserts $50-80/set
-batteriesCheap racing as the tyres will last the whole season.
Don’t need the best top-range ESC to run the SportTuned,
motor never needs work beyond clean & oil.Can save a little by buying some 2nd-hand gear but consumables
like motor, tyres & batteries are better ‘new’ for less headaches.
Depending on how bashed a used car is, might be cheaper sometimes
to buy a new kit than try to repair a trashed car with new parts.Surikarn is reigning IFMAR TC World Champ; Maezumi is one of Japan’s top drivers and Rheinard is one of Europe’s finest.
The Race of Champions is invitational-only for
the best-of-the-world’s-best handpicked by
Mike Reedy (US motor building legend)
and this year it was run “best of 10 races”.(given that combo, you’d need 120% in ALL facets
of skill, setup, equipment AND Luck to win)Held this yr at Tamiya USA’s track in California.
If you’ve hacked the heads into flatheads… that could be causing it too. Slotted heads are very “flexy” compared to phillips. Best are cap heads & hex dome heads.
Hi-tensile steel is also “springyier” than mild steel. You need this springy property + friction to keep your screws tight.
btw forgot to add… sometimes the screws are too short.
Get the longest screw you can get in that size, thread it in and find out how deep the hole really is, then add on the thickness of the chassis. Go find a hi-tensile bolt of that length.
More thread ares = more friction and more area for threadlock to grab if you’re using that.
That’s when you go “thank God for JB Weld”… :D:)
(JB Weld it, drill it then tap it)
Most of Loctite’s goods are “anaerobic” (they cure when there’s no air). You can leave the bottle unsealed and they won’t go off, but they’ll cure only when they get clamped between 2 metals and there’s no air.
(Fridge/freezer is good only for superglue & silicone sealant – no water vapour keeps them fresh longer.)
Trouble is with loctite, even the ‘permanent’ ones, is that they RELEASE WITH HEAT.
Should be ok on the engine mounts (they shouldn’t get thaaaaat hot…. right?); but they don’t do much either. Tamiya’s blue glue is not anaerobic and stays pretty tacky in the hole.
Suspect you’re still using the kit stock screws?
You’re probably not tightening them enough.I think the better solution is to go to your local fasteners supply and buy High-Tensile Caphead bolts of the right size. These allow you to crank up the torque (don’t overtighten) with less fear of stripping the head or breaking the shank.
Lookup your local “Coventry Fasteners” (previously called The Bolt Bloke).
Not many commercially-available nitro cars under 1/12th out there… probably none.
The trouble is there’s not many tiny engines that are throttle-controllable, most of them are fixed throttle.
Lots of crazy personal projects out there though.
Under/oversteering is adjustable via front wheels’ toe-in/out. I like my cars to be a bit “lively” with good turn-in.
Yeah, fully proportional control too… want less steering, turn the wheel less. 🙂 Its not Nintendo or BitCharG with full-throw or nothing control.
Quote:by : assembled as per Instruction Manual and no chassis modifications allowed. that means i cant put in a TA03 diff like suggested.. can i….
also can you race a M03L under vortec rules… i know you cant race m04 casue theyre RWD but a M03 l should be fine????Yep all versions of M03 allowed. Balldiff is totally allowed; rules should be read as “no chassis surgery” but all bolt-on/in hopups is ok.
Only problem with M03L is that you can only get the BMW Mini body & only from Tamiya … @ $90 a pop.
But just remove the extender piece and you get a standard M03 anyway, so you can fit classic Mini shells on it.
The handling is no different around TFTR even with the extra inch of wheelbase; there is no obvious advantage either way.
Quote:Quote:Who’s black/grey car (chassis?) did I whack into at full tilt…? 😯iwoould be more worried about ur chassis (suriken wasnt it) lol 800 dollar chassis owner worried about the 140 dillar mini-z
urs copped tons more anyways yours fliped and smashed around and his was just pushed into the ground .. thats a novel idea use a mini-z as a jumpthese are toy cars and they’re meant to be used… 😀 if I didn’t want them scratched they’d just sit on the shelf & never see daylight. 👿 What fun is that?? :smiley2::p
Who’s MiniZ was that anyway…? :question:
Sorrylah…Quote:also vortec says you can have tamiya hop up … whats hop ups do tamiya have??.. im looking to be very competitive.(althou i cant drive i will learn) lolVortec aren’t that strict, they’ll allow anything on your car as long as its just screwed on and you don’t have to hack up your car to make stuff fit.
Must-have hopups are:-
bearings (a must)
Sport Tuned motor
full set HPI X-pattern mini tyres + insertsCommon hopups but not mandatory are:-
oil shocks (only Tamiya Super Mini CVAs fit properly)
universal driveshafts
balldiff (TA03 or MantaRay)
2-degree toe-in rear uprightsIf you’ve got money to burn:-
alloy front knuckles
alloy front C-carrier
alloy motor heatsink
stainless steel suspension hingepins
aluminium kingpins
carbon gear shafts
… etcYou don’t have to spend much on Mini racing. Just get the 3 must-haves on a standard Mini kit and you’ll be set. Spend the rest on more batteries, a good charger and a nice paintjob.
Quote:i no this is stupid but i was wondering about the tamiya motors that u race the M03s with a beter ESC isnt gonna make it faster is it? .. like if i got a top line nosram and put it up agains a 120 dollar ESC they will perform roughly the same rite casue a ESC can pump in more than the motor can take out rite?.. the Tamiya Sport tuned motors are 20 wind moddifiers rite so my lpr runner will run it aswell as a top line ESC??Top racing ESCs have lower resistance, but that only comes into play when running high current drains (= more heat generated). A SportTuned motor wouldn’t even sweat the lousiest ESC out there. 😀
Also with the Mini you can just about drive with full throttle all the time, there’s no need for in-between. Good ESCs are more efficient at the mid range, but for full power always – you might as well just use a on/off switch = max efficiency.
Only trouble with the LRP Runner is (unfortunately) it is Fwd & Reverse only, no Brake. Brake is good on a track, you don’t want to slow down by jamming straight into reverse. Otherwise LRPs are good machines; I was using a LRP Sprinter in the TB02 on Saturday. It only got a little bit warm controlling a 15turn motor.
Quote:…And just wonder where did u get the bumpers for the Minis again? what do they called? thanks
i am thinkin of buying a Mini, is M01/M02 not as good as M03/04? i heard they are easy to break?M01/02 has been discontinued a fair while and parts are getting
harder to find. Also they have some design hassles like their unique
monoshock “seesaw” suspension and convoluted steering assembly.An M03 has conventional 4 shocks with coilover springs
which makes it much more easier to tune.M04 is RWD and shares the M03’s suspension & gears
but the chassis is unique. RWD is trickier to drive.Not quite out-of-kit standard but nothing crazy either.
The Minis are built to VORTEC’s racing rules, which say:Quote:Tamiya MiniTamiya M01/2 or M03 series “Front Wheel Drive” chassis only assembled as per Instruction Manual and no chassis modifications allowed. 540 Johnson/Mabuchi or Tamiya Sport tuned only. ESC, bearings and Tamiya Hot ups permitted. Small size Mini wheels only. Any rubber Tyres. Mini Cooper Bodyshells only.
Minis are cheap racing!! They’re tough as leather, nothing much
breaks on them and there’s not many parts on them to start with.
Get a car & set it up right and there’s nothing to buy thereafter.
(If anyone thinks mega hopups will make your car go faster, come
talk to me before you go shopping…:p)Who’s black/grey car (chassis?) did I whack into at full tilt…? 😯
Damned hard to see black things at dusk, especially that 1/10 S2000 drifter painted in all matte black. Tinier things have even less visibility!
Next time we gotta get some LEDs haha… winter is fast coming.
Some underbody neons would be nice. :pQuote:…can bring ur Mitsubishi Pajero Metaltop?Could have, but d’oh didn’t see your message until just now.
haha, so that’s where you saw the Minis… :smiley16:
Probably not running though; last time it saw daylight was in July/03. Took it out to Heritage for some scenic photos and terrorise the golfers.
Had the Kiwi friend (TamiyaClub) with us, he was the blonde with the green Mini. He’ll be in town for another 10+ days so might gang up with him next weekend too to maybe squirt some dirt somewhere, he’s got some offroaders… keep you guys posted?
Quote:Only one thing is good, it works with 3PK, MJ and 2PL.:Dwhat you mean?
3PK is FM, MJ & 2PL is AM. MiniZ is AM 27Mhz.
They can’t drive away if you jump out quick and prop the bonnet open hehehehe… (done that b4) :p
Bring your charger anyway, we’ll work something out. Should have some spare capacity somewhere.
Quote:i should be there but i was wondering what chargers will be around casue my mtronics needs a car battery and i can be stuffed lugging one along..How about checking under the bonnet?? :):p
How about someone just bring a VHS VCR?? 🙂
Hookup the receiver to it and just leave it running.
We’ve got 240V and betty’s got a plugpack to run the RX.I might try running it from 12VDC too, see if it makes any diff.
Any special requests for me to bring on Sat 15th?
(don’t think we’ll bother with the frypan anymore)
Quote:I had 512k/b ADSL … I was doing up to 80Gb a monthSounds like a break would be good for you, A! :smiley16:
Max throughput is about 200MB/hr on 512 – so for 80GB you’ll
need to be running at max for 16hrs per day every day.Even I can’t find that much interesting content… 😀
Honestly, there’s not much to see in HK. Ppl ppl ppl everywhere, the skies are constantly grey (lotsa pollution) and we never saw the sun once. The buildings are all dirty and grey, the apartment blocks are amazing how tall *and* skinny they are.
As for tourist attractions… wow, concrete statues and gaudy temples.
Food wasn’t particularly memorable either. Methink we get better variety & better prices here in Melbourne – and got lots of HK friends here to confirm that.
(yeah, I’m not the “travelling” type)
Most amazing sight… they use BAMBOO for scaffolding!! 😯 Even if its 20 or 30 stories up, they build a little verandah out of bamboo out the window to work on. No safety ropes nothing!
Construction sites work 24hrs there, there’s no noise pollution laws that say you must stop work at night when ppl living next door are trying to sleep.
Shopping? Clothes are cheap. Electronic stuff isn’t especially cheap, not by Asian standards anyway. Brandname goods, cosmetics, perfumes, booze etc… might as well just buy them from dutyfree.
Best entertainment was to hang out at the LHSes… and eavesdrop on the “haggling” when a tourist gwailo walks in. Very hard to keep from laffing… :p:p:)
Optus cable is good if you can live with the caps. Sometimes you can see bursts of over 1000kps when doing cached files.
ADSL always maxes out at your rated bandwidth though.
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