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Associated seems to have brought out something huge too, might be bigger than Ofna?

Jeez, the hobby shops better start renovating their shelving!!! 😀

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In response… 🙂

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What colour is cousin’s R33 GTS-T??

He says its silver. One of the very rare examples without
*any* mods, its 99% factory stock – that’s how he wants it.
When he got it even the Jap radio was in the dash, amazing.

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And…do you have your own jappo rocket??

No way, gotta be crazy to drive that in Vic. We now have speed cameras
just about every 50 yards (NO joke!) and lately at every intersection
(“dual duty” speed & red-light cams); plus they ping you at
anything 3km over the limit. 😯

And this year there’s 40km/h limit around schools too now. :dead:

Anyway, am ‘too old’ these days to get any kicks from silly driving.
Just can’t be bothered anymore; all the VIC drivers are basically
asleep at the wheel all just staring at their speedos. After all,
“Speed Kills” and if you “Cut off Five” and drive 5km/h below
the limit, you’ll never get into any grief. (yeah right)

The weekend toy that lives in the garage is much more interesting,
its something that really takes one back to basics of motoring
and imho gives more pleasure than riding any big bike.

You’ll not recognise what it is anyway so no need to tell ya, but
whenever you’re up this way we can take you out for a whirl.

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My friend is sellin his super hornet 3 yrs old for $100 still working with stick control, batttas n 15 min charger.. is this worth it?

He says its still good condition and still runs well..?

Sure thing!
They’re like $300 new – all up with radio etc.
So if you’re in the market for one, that sounds good.

Parts for the Super Hornet is no problems as its
still a current model.

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Cousin recently got a R33 GTS-t too… I hear its plenty quick bog stock even before one makes it uninsurably modded… 🙂

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Did you get the RCX edition with the OS motor??? :blush:

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No hopups are needed – seriously!

Best thing you can do is to buy some decent tyres.
HPI mini X-patterns are the best so far.
(Your kit radials will be bald in no time.)

If you’ve got the BMW Mini, the wheelwells are
big enough to fit full-size touring car wheels
and tyres. Looks a bit better too, imho… 🙂

PLUS your gearing goes up.

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Where there’s water there’ll be a beach… and room for RC buggy or boat… :blush:

Girls? What’s that?? blackeye:

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One of my friends has an auto car, and the starter solenoid failed……..the only way to “push” start an auto car is to get it upto 60km/h or so…..

shouldn’t be able to do that… otherwise the next failure
VERY SOON is likely to the the whole auto tranny :shock::shock:

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The TOMY fiasco??? Do tell? :question:

same here… here’s a new topic just for that too! 🙂
Tomy Fiasco?

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Methinks Aaron has discovered its hard to put
3rd party headunits into a BArra.. :blush:

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… Its kinda interesting seeing (reading) what goes on behind the scenes to keep this site ticking over. Now that I can read all the past moderators stuff.

Phew! Lucky we went and censored all those geek jokes last month… :p

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Also remember seeing some that do that back in the 70s (mic & headphone jacks?), but they’ve all come inside audio equipment… short of scavenging them out of vintage AV gear or finding OEM NOS spareparts, not quite sure where one would buy those things separately.

Used to be place called “All Electronic Components” in Latrobe St Melb, but can’t seem to find them in YellowPages anymore. Maybe uA might know what happened to they, they usually had some ancient esoteric stocks.

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Yay, another Victorian! 🙂

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i got a friend of mine making an esc for me, to put in my TA02,
and im going to look on ebay for a good esc for my other car!!
cheers

If by “making” you’re talking about the Xenon kit from
Talking Electronics or the one from Silicon Chip… err, yeah,
they’re both a bit ‘behind’ the times by this stage.

ESCs usually go for crazy prices on eBay too,
good for sellers I guess.

Let me know what specs exactly you’re looking for, and can
always see what the guys down here can do for you too.

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Camera weighs about 20g… probably 1/2 of that is due to the big fat 2.5mm DC plug that is attached to it. If you replaced it with something smaller or hardwired the battery perhaps you could halve the weight.

Power requirement is 8V, it seems to draw about 150-200mAh. From a 9V alkaline, sucked it nearly dry in about 1/2 hr – expensive. I’ve been running it off 6xAAs for a bit more life.

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Most hobby shops sell delta peak chargers, just be sure to mention the small size of the cell you want to charge, some chargers only charge larger cells.

yup!

Most hobby chargers will only do minimum 4 cell packs, and
some that can do single cells with adjustable current will
only go as low as 500mA.

0.5A is probably a bit high for your little bitty 150mAh cell. :dead:

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A 25W iron is probably enough for those little cells. (I bought an 80W for sub-C cells and it works great – but more due to it having enough thermal mass to keep the heat high on contact.)

You need to leave the iron on for a few secs to
get the surface hot enough to melt the solder
and you can watch the solder “flow”.

If your solder only “blobs” then the surface is
not hot enough to melt the solder.

But don’t leave it on for long long time, you’ll
be cooking the cell and boiling off the innards.

[PandaBear]

A 25W iron is probably enough for those little cells. (I bought an 80W for sub-C cells and it works great – but more due to it having enough thermal mass to keep the heat high on contact.)

You need to leave the iron on for a few secs to
get the surface hot enough to melt the solder
and you can watch the solder “flow”.

If your solder only “blobs” then the surface is
not hot enough to melt the solder.

But don’t leave it on for long long time, you’ll
be cooking the cell and boiling off the innards.

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err… somebody did once put Wheels & RC system onto…

a Wheel/Pistol RC Controller???! 😯

Yeah it was sure cute driving a transmitter around.

There were pix of it on the web somewhere.

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Damned autos, can’t even pushstart the buggers… 😀
Ahh, the only place for an auto is in stop-start city traffic.

(whaddyamean I’m a city slicker…? :dead:)

Yup, I make sure the AUTO family wagon also has a good battery.
‘Cos charging all those 7.2V batteries sure takes a big drain from
it, and have had to call out RACV to the track at least once. :p

These days I also make sure its got enough juice to start *before*
I’m the last car left in the carpark heh heh heh… so WHO SEZ
age doesn’t benefit wisdom??! :smiley2:

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Nup… the only bits interchangeable between TL01 and M03 would be:
1) steering knuckles, rear hubs
2) front stub axles
3) kingpin screws
4) wheelnuts? 🙂
5) ok ok, same friction dampers too, if you’re that picky

TL01 is 4WD with shaftdrive.

M03 is a FWD.

M03 is a close cousin of the FF02 (FWD 1/10 TC)
but the M03 is a ‘mini’ and has shorter susp arms
for the narrower stance (165mm vs 190mm).
These 2 share the same chassis & drivetrain.
There is a “spacer” that makes the chassis longer
in the middle to suit either the full-size sedan,
or the new M03L.

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I wonder if that camera could be pulled apart and spread out in a BCG? it would definately fit in a MiniZ by the looks of it.

There would be no point in pulling it apart… all it is in the
little case is the camera/sensor on a little circuit board.
You can’t lose the case as you need something to hold the lens,
and its already as small as it can be.

Camera also needs a power source… mine sucks 200mA @ 8V.
You can run it off a 9V battery if you’re feeling rich
or have shares in Duracell, but the battery will be bigger
than your BCG.

Ignoring the battery… the camera will also
double the WEIGHT of your BCG.

We’re already having trouble with the extra weight in a 1/10.
The camera equipped car firstly can’t corner as quick (rollover),
and it puts extra strain on the motor. So the camera car keeps
getting overtaken on the track as its only running at 80-90% pace.

Soon getting rectified with “more power”, but hey…

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I reckon i could do this, quite cheaply too, http://www.oatleyelectronics.com.au has all the bits you need.

Nah, no way anyone in Oz can offer cheaper 👿 on these things:

Had one of those for 6+ mths, it works surprisingly well.
Receiver on that is straight AV (composite) out, so you
can do anything you like with the video feed.

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:blush: the difference between deadshort & correct
is one tiny little fibre washer that does
all the insulatin’…!

yeah, cranked it for “quite” a while too whilst
watching the DVM drop from 13V to about 5V across
the battery (which was started off fresh charged).

Well… it certainly saved me having to go & clean
all the contacts in the starter circuit. Pretty
sure they’re all clean & shiny after that.

To be safe, decided better to put a new battery in
so d’oh, that ‘experience’ costed $100 there. On
top of $300 for the startermotor to be recond’d.

Methinks a good starter/battery is only second in
importance to good-working brakes. :p

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Hmm…! Well, if any Tassie friend needs anything from any of our Melb shops, happy to be of assistance to buy & post if necessary. Or I’m sure some of them can do direct mailorder too.

Certainly would explain why NOBODY came from Tas
to race in the Tamiya Championship Series the
weekend before. Race was in Melbourne this year,
we saw 141 entries from as far away as Perth,
Brisbane, Sydney, Adelaide and even New Zealand!!

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