PandaBear
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Skyline is 35Mhz… it may still interfere with 40Mhz cars. 🙁
Not exactly *free* though!! :blush:
You’re crazy!!! 😯
Just wrap sellotape around your tyres next time, and run on glass.
Less hassle from your mum I’m sure. :smiley2:
haha guys… if you don’t have brakes like on mZ…
REVERSE = BRAKES!!! :D:D
Quote:yeh exactly, that would be awesome to race eveyday !I think Aaron does that at his ‘work’… :shy:
(scummy!!)
Quote:Anyone made any race tracks? 🙂I got a big piece of cardboard with clean paper stuck on it.
Not gonna win any prizes but it works well.Free to good home too! :blush:
JNH:- please bring in the FULL Tomica range!! 🙂
There was one time I was on the Nepean coming into town… on a day where the train strike was on. Yikes!! Spent 3hrs+ sniffing smog, not funny. :angry:
Yeah, its huge in HK. Dunno about Jap, but the HK scene is pretty active.
And its not all official organised racing either, I hear its pretty common in workplaces where the guys get together to race at lunchtime or afterwork.
Maybe you could do with some driving lessons, my friend… 🙂
Quote:I live near Frankston but commute to the city each dayI knew others like that too… they were very well read fellas too, given the length of time they spent on that V-Line! 🙂
Quote:…On the 14th of february i should have 2000 postsGuess 13th Feb is the day we switch off post counting… :clown::clown:
Nah, forget rechargeables in the TX – not worth the $$$. Tried Greencells and the like and they all *leaked* after a while.
Just stick with normal alkalines, imho they’re the best if you never forget to turn TX off after use. A set lasts a very long time.
Heh… a “few grand” in HK$ don’t buy ya much these days.
I thought it was pretty cool experience blowing HK$100+ at KFC alone.
oh hey, how did your drama go?
Did ya sic your lawyer dogs on ’em?? :pHaha, how didja blow a gearbox?? (ya ya, feel free to blame ‘mum’ :))
Not sure about the rounded MR2 but the original square 1st-gen MR2 was good to work on, even for a mid engine. 4AGE twincam too!
Headsup… don’t forget “whinge central” http://www.notgoodenough.org/ 👿
City itself.
Forgot to add…
If anybody is interested in wrenching on your own car its not very hard. Just takes patience and make sure you’ve a copy of the workshop manual.
Most of the time you won’t need any fancy computers; even with some ‘computer’ diagnosis (ie fault reading off the ECU) all you need is a multimeter to count the pulses at the various output points, then refer off the key in the manual/s.
Biggest drawback is that you’ll spend a lot of time mucking around crawling over the car. If this is attractive to you then that’s great, if not then you’ll just have to pay someone else to enjoy the fun for you.
Quote:… There are apparently a few very good well equipped Sydney workshops with all the factory computer gear to hook up to the Import toyotas (and Nissans etc) that will do a better job than a Dealership.Christ – that wouldn’t be hard!! 👿
I don’t wanna start telling tales on all my not-so-good experiences with franchised dealers. Most of the time its about charging ‘pro’ rates for a job half done, if at all.
These days I’d just prefer to do my own servicing (just spent Sat night with the oilpan, new plugs, new points… over 2 cars) and if there’s a “too hard” job that simply gets outsourced directly to a specialist eg aircon, transmission, big engine jobs, major electricals, drivetrain etc.
These guys all do the job for a fraction of the $$ and best of all, I get to speak to the guy with the greasy palms NOT the cute but clueless receptionist babe. I tell them what exactly I want done and they do it; the better guys would keep an eye open and report back what else needs to be done, if any.
Quote:Att eh same time these places often employ mechanics that can read the japanese language manuals and all that which makes it even better.Eh! Let’s not get carried away here… 🙂
I’ve met a few good wrenchies in my time, but I’ve yet to meet any bilingual grease monkeys in Oz. blackeye: Not even sure if any manuals exist even (they’re usually proprietary info)… most of the local Toyo specialists have invented their own servicing schedules anyway based on the LS400 – as majority of the Soarers landed here are V8s. Nothing wrong with that, just as long as the car is attended to regularly.
Besides, I’d rather let the car tell me what needs to be done. I like to see yellow oil on my dipstick and when it goes black its time for a flush-n-fresh-filter. The way I do it my oil stays yellow for at least 3500kms (a lot of city work), if the dealers do it its black after less than 500 – go figure.
No I don’t believe in “10,000km oil intervals” either… its only good for the beancounters for the first 40,000kms (first owner), but I don’t think its any good for engine longetivity in the long run.
I think Tomy doesn’t recommend them, they also recommend against using nicads/niMH.
Big problem is that the charging circuit relies on the internal resistance of alkalines to restrict the current going into the BCG. Rechargeables and lithiums have lower resistance, so are able to pump through more current which might overcharge your car.
Lithiums when fresh also have a higher voltage… approx 1.7-1.8V vs drycell 1.5V and nicads 1.2V.
Aren’t red Energizers still selling for A$10/pr? They usually last only 3X as long as normal Energizers… but they cost 5X as much.
I think Tomy doesn’t recommend them, they also recommend against using nicads/niMH.
Big problem is that the charging circuit relies on the internal resistance of alkalines to restrict the current going into the BCG. Rechargeables and lithiums have lower resistance, so are able to pump through more current which might overcharge your car.
Lithiums when fresh also have a higher voltage… approx 1.7-1.8V vs drycell 1.5V and nicads 1.2V.
Aren’t red Energizers still selling for A$10/pr? They usually last only 3X as long as normal Energizers… but they cost 5X as much.
Haha, why not?
The AusMicro shopping excursion… sounds great!! 😀
Quote:what shell did u get Panda??The AutoScale that arrived yesterday was a 360 Modena… but it looks too darned good to run!! Even the rear logo and tailpipes are chrome finished, amazing! 🙁
Had thought of mounting it anyway till I found a better basher/runner, but then realised (1) chassis was too short and (2) I think I’ve got a Echo/Vitz and the motor is “high”.
Modena needs “Long” and “Low”; could do the Long but didn’t have the bits to move the motor. As is it’ll bash the rear window, so its retired back into the case.
Hmm… what’s the 4AAA battery box on the dummy chassis for? Looks like Kyosho wants us to light up the display body, maybe. :p
Geez, at that rate I think I’ll be flying to Hong Kong every other week with an empty suitcase. I could resell & make enough profit to pay for the airfare.
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