ph2t
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Has anyone put their bearings in turps and turned them into ‘dry’ bearings? I did that with my gen1 xmod and it workd a treat on soothing up the drivetrain. I know it increases wear but it’s only bearings, lol…… anyone else?
still watching the front of my house, I walk out to the windo every 5-10 minutes, how sad! lol…
ph2t.
In bout 9 hours I’m joining the AWD crew! yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah!
ph2t,
lozza learn to press fricken ENTER!!!!!
then the pics won’t pull a panoramic on yer arse….. lol…
good stuff.
ph2t.
Aaron, do you have the ma-010 in stock, ready to ship out?
cool, for 10deg I’ve only ever tried atomc, they were VERY sticky and VERY soft. Was worried about them loosing tension after a bit of use, but they seemed to hold up ok.
generally I’ve found that now running on betty’k concrete track, you should change your tyres after 5-6 battery ‘packs’. I think betty changes them even more frequently than that.
the iwavers are good for their price, they don’t last as long as my favorite front tyres, the kyosho 30deg radial normal width tyres. they’ve got a cool tread, but it dissapears after a few packs, lol….
let us know when they come in A.
cheers,
ph2t.
aussiemini-z, soryr about the late replys but chec your pm’s.
for smooth concrete I would reccomend that you put carpet down. betty and I are heavily experienced now in actauly racing on concrete and this is the type of concrete surface that’s outside. the concrete surface I think you have is the very smooth, finished, indoor variety, yes? IF that’s the case then not much will stick to it at all.
otherwise, go gandini acing foams on the rear, and iwaver 30degs on the front (from the ausmicro shop). or get the kyosho 30 deg redials from rcmart. they’re also excellent.
but again, this is for externallyu exposed concrete racing.
also, keep in mind that toe-in and and camber make a difference to cornering.
cheers,
ph2t.
yasuo havris!
the gpm v2 will have a problem on your monster, when the power is turned off it will fry the turbo unless you do the ‘mod for mr02’ as listed on the rcmart site.
otherwise, go for a spider, I reccomend it. I make the nelly turbo but I don’t make them very often, but Aaron from the ausmicro shop has the spider in stock.
you can check out the ‘woah nelly turbo’ thread in the mini-z technical section if you want to learn everything about PCB’s and mosfets.
cheers and welcome to ausmicro.
ph2t.
Nah, as I said it’s a bit tricky to understand.
All versions of my nelly turbo before v1.3 are just external hbridge circuits but they use very high performance MOSFETS. Nelly v1.3 uses special mosfet drivers to account for the voltage drive issue that mini-z, iwaver and gen1 xmod pcb’s suffer from.
You will still get a decent performance increase by using a nelly (or spider) because of the better mosfets to start off with…..nelly mosfets and spider mosfets are still very low resistance mosfets, better than the EVO stock or replacement ones, it’s a limiting factor of the package design the mosfet sits in.
but yes, the extra design in the v1.3 series is redundant on the evo xmod PCB.
ph2t.
OK, time for a little update, but on the XMODS EVO front.
Been doing some more analysis of the EVO PCB. It ‘s very the same in fucntion as the gen1 XMOD pcb but has a key difference that is integral to it”s increased performance over the gen1 XMODS.
Written in detail many pages back in this huge bloody thread is discussion on how there is a limiting performance issue with all Mini-Z, iWaver and gen1 XMOD PCB”s.
The issue is one of MOSFET gate voltage, I won”t go into the detail here (read back 10 pages!) but the bottom line is that with MOSFETs the higher the voltage you drive them atthe better they perform.
Mini-z, iWaver & gen1 XMOD PCB”s all suffer from lack of performance in this area. With an average 3.0 – 3.4V gate drive hitting the nchan MOSFETS, all these PCB”s loose an extra 1.2 – 1.8V in drive. This extra voltage can be used to drive the MOSFETS and has been shown to add a critical amount to performance.
To compound this problem even futher, add a higher voltage supply to these PCB”s and they would still only drive at 3.0 – 3.4V the nchan mosfets. Not good at all. ie: with a typical lithium 2 cell setup of 7.2V you are loosing up to 3.2V in drive voltage.
It’s this issue that’s the core behind nelly v1.3 and subsequently nelly deluxe. Both these turbos INCREASED the drive voltage up to the supply voltage for the MOSFETS. (deluxe also included the 5v regulator)
Enter the XMOD EVO PCB. This fella is impressive. Yes, it”s still crappy, coarse PWM controll but it makes up for this in a big way.
I took some measurements today and found that the gate drive voltages for your typical 4 cell nimh setup were approx 4.5V. This is very good, the EVO PCB is basically driving the mosfets as close to Vcc as possible.
Taking it one step futher, I plugged in a li-poly pack I made (700mah, 7.4V) and got 7.2V drive.
This means that not only does the EVO PCB drive the MOSFETS at a good gate votlage, if you increase the supply voltage the gate drive increases too!
This might sound like a lot of jibberish to some people and I’m sorry for that but it’s hard to explain any other way. This performance feature basically makes the nelly v1.3 design redundant for the EVO (the MOSFET drive circuitry I use on nelly v1.3, nelly still uses kick arse MOSFETS) but that’s not a big issue.
Aaron, you might want to check out the figures for the Spider MOSFETS”s Rds(on) values for gate drives of 4.5V and 7.2v (approx). Compare these figures to the EVO MOSFETS you stock in the shop and even the stock EVO MOSFET, might be interesting.
I wrote this here in the nelly thread mainly ’cause it pertains to PCB mosfet design and voltages. Whilst it’s not totally nelly centric it focusses on key issues in the drive of MOSFETS and getting 110% out of them.
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 05 November 2005 16:34:09
where do me purchase them? in the ausmicro.com shop?
ph2t.
it will redefine the great old aussie saying:
‘she’s a noisy little bugger!’
ph2t.
from rcfart…..
Kyosho Mini-Z MR-02 (#30471Y) Ferrari 575GTC (YW)
mello yello 🙂
can you score it in an autoscale man?
yeah, unfortunately these manufacturers are only in the OEM (original equiment manufacture) market.
do you need the RX chip or the TX chip? I take it you want the one in SOIC14 package format and not the ‘blob’ version?
ph2t.
You can’t really buy them retail per ‘se. Your best bet is to by a micro rx car and rip the RX/TX chips outta them. rcmart.com or toyest.com should have several clone micro cars available for you to get the IC’s from.
ph2t.
On floorbards, try forever. Seriously.
I got a set and have shown them to you in the past numbnuts! You need to glue, cut and true them which is way over my head……
very nice leon, loving the pan chassis……
I should of copyrighted those bloody rainbow wire things,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
ok, I was a little worried but it”s cool.
I tested the v1.3 on an iwaver PCB with a 7.2V li-ion supply and a PN Racing Anima motor.
Not a problem. So I”m not sure what happened your side. WIll no more when I get your chassis next week!
cheers,
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 16 September 2005 20:33:59
lol, she’s a little cutie! (as in a dad of a little girl myslef not a pedo way!, lol)
the v1.3 was designed to take the high votlage setup. I ramble on about it in my usualy bs way back on pages 11,12 of this thread I think, can’t remember. I’ll do some more test to confirm since I’m building a batch of v1.3’s over the next week. I can only put it down to a type of mosfet I was using at the time, a fairchild semi one, not the IRF ones I susually use. I’m not sure. I’ve had many users run them on 7.2V li-ions (ala xmods) succesfully.
cheers dude,
ph2t.
Quote:Morbid Monaro wrote:to be honest, i didn”t get home till the sundaynight& i sent the email on friday morning & when i didn”t see a reply I didn”t give it another thought, also i”ve emailed you before a few times & never recieved a reply.
i don”t know if you remember but the nelly that melted on the lithium car was the one that took 2 months to deliver after i payed for it so i”m not too interested in the offer,cheers anyway dude
yeah, I apologise for that. i’ve changed the way I sell them now so I didn’t have to live my life by those bloody paypal ‘add to cart’ buttons. If you want, I’ll happliy fix those 1.3’s for you, no cost. As I said I like to think that I support my customers when shit happens, lol… just let me know if you’re interested.
cheers,
ph2t.
cool, well if you’re interested nelly deluxes are going on ebay now. Just check out the news section in my site to find the link. If you choose to bid and win the auction, I’ll happiliy install it on the chassis of your choice for free.
as to the email you sent me, you said it ‘was a quick email with some pictures’ and that you were going to email me more detail when you got home (later that night I guess). then email I never got so I guess I never pursued it. If you want some action taken re: these nellys, ie: fix , install check ,etc,etc just email me again and we’ll work something out.
cheers,
ph2t.
sorry to hear about you blowing the nellies dude, the setup you’re running is definately hardcore. is that a 4×2 fet stack on that chassis?
the 1.2 is really only for 4 cell setups, the 1.3 handled the higher voltage ones. Although a few people have had issues lately blowing them. I’ve tried to help where I can. Did you ever contact me? If I missed your email I apologise.
cheers,
ph2t.
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