ph2t
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Please email me a pic of your work, that will help. Did you email be before on this earlier this week?
ph2t.
and it’s a croc of shit, will burn out yoru mini-z/xmod. Stay away from it. That ebay seller sells a lot of crap, unfortunately a lot of dodgy xmod sales are on ebay.
I suggest you get the pn anima motor from the shop:
http://shop.ausmicro.net/product_info.php?products_id=116&osCsid=9420b43fa44488747125ce82bc90c987
Remember to convert to USD in the bottom right since it defaults to AUD.
ph2t.
Hachi sent me a PM into the old system. (ie: the link in the email stated /v3 in the URL) can I still access this? Can the v3 pm’ing be turned off for sending any new pm’s?
cheers
and you’re driving!
mahuhuhuhuhuhuhuhuh!
I got my new saleen shell today (thanks again A!), so I’m ready to kick ur arse, AGAIN!
I LOVE IMAGE TAGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
woooooooooooohooooooooooo!
Good to see the pimps here too!
ph2t.
lol, good to see you here mate!
cheers,
ph2t.
In like flynn!
ph2t.
lol, the ones in the RTR I lost the moment I opened the bloody thing!
I swear atomic just shits me now. These CVD”s are strong but their OD on the shaft is a beesdick smaller than the ID of the bearings they sit in. this introduces wobble.
Also, the dogbone part of the CVD can be 1-1.5mm longer. Othewise they also introduce in/out play, which is why I need those damn shims….
And to top it off, the thread that the bloody wheel nuts are meant to screw onto is thinner than standard. Therefore even a NEW STOCK kyosho plastic wheel nut won”t fit.
ATOMIC definately pulled out the big guns in stuffing these CVD”s up.
I just bought another set TOPCAD ones, since no other brand is out yet. 3Racing have some on their site, but not ready yet.
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 10 January 2006 22:56:14
When you take into account the twisting forces on the drivetrain, the outdrive is one of the weak points.
ph2t.
When you take into account the twisting forces on the drivetrain, the outdrive is one of the weak points.
ph2t.
sounds like you’ve got some major noise issues. Have you got the caps on the motor soldered on ok?
sounds like you ve got some major noise issues. Have you got the caps on the motor soldered on ok?
You getting any alloy CVD’s in that ARN’T ATOMICS?
You getting any alloy CVD s in that ARN’T ATOMICS?
I only had two caps on the Anima motor and I noticed it was a bit twitchy on the steering response and throttle at times. So I added the third cap.
I also added a power cap to the main chassis +ve/-ve, it””””s 1000uF at 6V so it””””s pretty small given it””””s capacity. The AWD chassis gives you a great spot to put it on as well!
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 08 January 2006 23:59:48
Edited by – ph2t on 09 January 2006 00:01:03
I only had two caps on the Anima motor and I noticed it was a bit twitchy on the steering response and throttle at times. So I added the third cap.
I also added a power cap to the main chassis +ve/-ve, it ”””’s 1000uF at 6V so it””””s pretty small given it””””s capacity. The AWD chassis gives you a great spot to put it on as well!
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 08 January 2006 23:59:48
Edited by – ph2t on 09 January 2006 00:01:03
Done the following to my ma-010.
PN Anima motor (lowest gearing)
Atomic CVD”s (they need to be shimed to stop the wobble they introduce, 🙁 )
3Racing bearing set.
Atomic low ride spring set (Med)
That”s about it for now. I”ve got the Kyosho alloy driveshaft comming along with alloy outdrives (both pn and atomic ones). I”ve also got the wheel set comming as well. I don”t like how on the stock shaft that the pinion on the front doesn”t have a notch to lock it into the shaft. BAh, even the dumbarse xmods had it! The Kyosho driveshaft at least appears to have a brass one that I”m sure won”t budge!
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 08 January 2006 22:45:23
Done the following to my ma-010.
PN Anima motor (lowest gearing)
Atomic CVD ‘s (they need to be shimed to stop the wobble they introduce, 🙁 )
3Racing bearing set.
Atomic low ride spring set (Med)
That”s about it for now. I”ve got the Kyosho alloy driveshaft comming along with alloy outdrives (both pn and atomic ones). I”ve also got the wheel set comming as well. I don”t like how on the stock shaft that the pinion on the front doesn”t have a notch to lock it into the shaft. BAh, even the dumbarse xmods had it! The Kyosho driveshaft at least appears to have a brass one that I”m sure won”t budge!
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 08 January 2006 22:45:23
what good is the diff lube? If I may ask…..
what good is the diff lube? If I may ask…..
Hey Hachi, good to see you’re still around bud. Just some tips with mini-zs.
Always turn on the TX first.
Never leave batts in the mini-z, even with it off. Technically the fets are not swtiched off. whilst this ain’t a huige issue, it’s good to play it safe.
IF you’re runing this baby primarily on concrete then you need better tyres, especially with the setup you have. Get a set of 11mm Gandini racing foams from the ausmicro shop. Aaron is the only one that stocks the FULL LINE of Gandini pre-mounted foams. Trust me, get them and a set of 30-40 deg 8mm slicks for the front end and your handling on concrete will be excellent. Trust me, betty and I did this and have not looked back ever since!
Get a good ball diff. This will help you control that bugger in corners.
I would keep the gearing on the low side with the plasmatomic. Seems to work best in that setup for tight tracks.
Striaghten that antenna! lol. A good antenna is always right angled to the ground. Put some heatshrink tubing around the firs 6-8cm of it to ensure it doesn’t short out against the motor wires / motor.
Get an oil shock. A must for concrete racing. You don’t need a tricky sway bar / shock setup. Just an oil shock and a good CF h-plate. 3 racing make some of the best cf hplates.
cheers, good to see you’ve finally taken the pluge and got a *cough* real *cough* 1:28 scale racer, lol….
ph2t.
good to see you’re still around Prez, where you been hiding? lol….
thanks for the heads up man, I’m yet to install my bearings. my brother just got me BF2 for christmas so I’m gonna be locked in the PC room for the next few days……
ph2t.
bugger, I was hoping that Aaron would stock suitable MM hplates.
ph2t.
yeah, get the mr02, lost of fun, parts and good times.
you in Melb? there’s a small crew of us here that tear up the concrete weekly 🙂
the ausmicro.com shop has lots of goodies and quick shipping. I ordered my ma-010 on Monday, got it yesterday!!!
ph2t.
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