ph2t
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High efficiency Center Shaft Drive that communicates full Motor torque.
The power from F/R diff Gear will transmit thorough the Center Shaft and Universal Swing Shaft to All wheels.
Due to the minimum width of 65mm chassis, most of MR01 and MR015 bodies are able to fit.
12 pcs of different wheel are included to fit to various bodies.
Easy to change to the M/L size Mini-Z Racer wheel base.
4 pcs Ball Bearing included.
F/R Diff Gear included.
Able to change the Rear Tow by using option parts.
4 kinds of Pinion Gear, 3 kinds of Spar Gear (3 kinds per wheel base, total of 6pcs) is included, so able to change the Gear Ratio as you like.
New receiver amplifier unit (High Grade FET), RA12 is included.
Wheels – not able to use regular Mini-Z wheels. Use AWD wheels only.
= Technical data and Proto-Type pictures =
Technical Data
scale 1/27.6
Length 127.5 mm (M)/131.5mm (L)
Width 65.0~72.0mm
Height 43.0mm
Wheelbase 90.0mm (M)/94.0mm (L)
Track F : 56.5~63.5mm R :56.5~61.0mm
Weight Approx. 135g
Motor 130 class
Gear Ratio (regular)7.2 : 1 / 6.4 : 1
6.0 : 1 / 6.0 : 1
5.7 : 1 / 5.3 : 1
5.0 : 1 / 4.5 : 1
Front Tyres
Φ25.0mm
Rear Tyres Φ25.0mm
Front Tires width 8.5mm
Rear Tires width 8.5~11.0mm
Batteries AAA X4
Transmitter Sold separately
Edited by – ph2t on 26 August 2005 15:32:51
It only keeps on getting better……….



yeah baby!
yaya, cool. let me know 🙂
I’ve thrown some nelly deluxes up on Ebay, also put some more plasmatomics up as well.
Check ’em out here:
cheers,
ph2t.
dude, loose the rubbers, go foams………
very nice though, loving the theme. It should become a spider show car as well with a PN anima in it and one of your low count alloy pinions.
now that would be a show car!
ph2t.
you never know, it could have a reduction gear setup like the mini-inferno.
here’s a few more lynched pics.



Ok, I”ve done some testing to see how much I can push this bugger and I”m pretty happy with the results.
Nelly Deluxe’s theoretical specs are as such:
– Max voltage: 12V, or 3 li-ion (10.8V) or 3 li-poly (11.1V)– Max current: 16A (100A peak)
– Total Resistance: 0.0087 Ohms (lowest in the game)
Now the theory and reality are always different. So if you wanna state something unique in this game you gotta be able to back it up. That”s why I always test stuff first. Theory is one thing but reality is another.
so my test setup involved a 3 li-ion supply. I”m using some li-ions from an old laptop supply. They are too big to fit on a mini-z or xmod but perfect for testing.
Very crappy looking I know, but there serve a purpose. At 1500mah they put out more punch than the more popular li-ions used in this RC scale.
Here”s the setup I”m running, using my digital multi-meter to measure the current drain on the batteries.
And it all works just fine! Nelly doesn”t even get warm. Even with the fwd/backward trigger being used a lot to lock up the motor, nelly handled it all.
The bottom line, after all the crap I just said is to watch the following video.
(cover your ears……………)
http://www.woahnelly.com/stuff/nelly/vroom.wmv
2MB, WMV format. Need Windows media player to view.
Nelly deluxe will be out on ebay within the next day so watch for it!
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 24 August 2005 14:57:17
Quote:ld788 wrote:Hi , ive been reading this forum and i have an idea to save space because everyones been putting such emphasis on small size. my idea is since your adding more ic”s to overcome low voltage to the mosfet instead of building wider why dont you use both sides of the pcb. this will makejust it slightly thicker. but with your packaging everyone probably wont be able to notice it being thicker since the thick wires bulk out the packaging. im not sure what method your using to make pcb”s so i dont know if your capable of using both sides. just an idea let me know if you lke it.
that’s a good idea dude, but the economics of it aren’t the best. the labour to cut the pcb’s up, align them, etc, etc… would be just to costly.
I’d like ot be able to experiment with double sided pcb’s, that would be nuts, the space savings would be huge! But making them by hand has it’s limitations….
ph2t.
nice setup man. I’m running my ICE off a 12A supply. Using it to charge my fleet of AAA’s, some lipo’s and AA’s for the TX’s, also sub AAA sizes.
The largest battery I charged on it was a 2/3A GP1100’s, I was pumping them at 3.5A no sweats. Power supply held up. The Duratrax is a great charger.
The cylcing is great, even not in the fancy charging modes (which I’m yet to comprehend). Cycle the buggers at the lower count you can spare. ie: 2,3 4 cells at most. you need to fine tweak the deltaV value between 0.12 -0.15V per cell, this is more for high C charge rates, 2c+.
If you discharge at high C values, pull the cell/volt down to 0.9/0.8. I know this is ‘low’ per se but it helps drain the last vestige of current out of the buggers. If you don’t the discharge cycle stops prematurely since the cells underload drop below the (regular) 1.0c=V/cell threshold….
To cycle 4 800mah AAA’s I would
discharge @ 0.4A, charge @ 0.6A, discharge v/cell @ 0.9V, delta peak volt @ 0.13, cylce 4 times.
that’s a good one. a puritan would lower the discharge current even futher. but you’d want the batteries this week sometime.
ph2t.
Quote:Aaron wrote:Yikes!
Don”t feed teh PCB more than 5v!!!
The Gate outputs of the Kyosho Electronics will always be only around 3v and 5v no matter what voltage you feed in. That”s why FET drivers (like MAZ627) work well..
A.
Yeah, if you isolate the spider from the MZM pcb and attempt to drive it that way, the pchan mosfets will always be in an ‘on’ state. this is due to the fact that Vout from the PCB is 5v BUT Vcc into the mosfets is 7.2v (or grater). This means that the voltage drop across the Source-Gate junction on the pchan mosfets is 2.2V, enough to keep them on. Ergo: as soon as you apply throttle and turn on an nchan mosfets, you will create a short and blow the buggers.
This is described in incredibly anal detail in my nelly thread, somewhere………
ph2t.
excellent work fellas, where is this tutorial?
Quote:bithed wrote:…I saw these the other day locally and they are hellishly small…I cant believe you could mod them..but if anybody can you guys can..lol…We only have the Doyusha ones here…no clones yet…
dude, can you give me a quote on sourcing one of these for me?
ta,
ph2t.
thanks everyone!
running on bugger all sleep at the ‘mo, but estatic as!
ph2t.
thanks fellas, it’s a girl, her names marissa, and she’s absolutely gorgeous…
now if betty would post that photo he er, um ‘edited’ lol…
ph2t.
I’m partial to the mclaren F1

And the dynacity supra..

Needles to say I own both…. lol
I’m just replying to this thread so I can get rid of all those bloody ‘topic reply notifications’ arghhhhhhhh!
once you fellas know the right surface n stuff let us know ’cause betty and I wanna do the same thing. If ya can get the name or part number for the foam you end up using that would be great!
ph2t.
nice stuff fellas, didn’t realise you had that many Z’s Azz !
ph2t.
oh yeah, you might want to take the opportunity to hack a power switch together to stop the batterykarking itthrough overdraining (??)…
ph2t.
that would be it.

just buy this replacement one and it should be fine.
http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=2674
space shouldn’t be an issue either.
you could possibly try this larger capacity 250mah one as well.
http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=1635
this one would take longer to charge, I take it it charges through the USB port?
cheers dude.
ph2t.
Kero, be carefull mate. I would check the capacity of the dead cell first.
The inbuilt lipo charger circuitry on the pencam needs to be matched to the battery capacity.
lipoly has a certain restriction on charge rates, you can only charge at 1C.
C = capactiry
eg: a 250mah 3.7V lipo can be charged at a maximum of 250mA
if you swap out the dead lipo for a new one that has a lesser capacity you may (note: may, I’m not %100 sure on the charge rate the internal pen cam circuitry would put out) find that you’re chargeing the replacement lipo at too high a rate.
overcharge lipo = flames
find out the mAh rating on the battery and we’ll take it from there.
cheers mate,
ph2t.
.
here’s a little video (divx format, http://www.divx.com) of my stocker vs. betty’s modded beast…
http://www.woahnelly.com/stuff/dgm_final.avi
ph2t.
uber is german for ‘above all’ of something like that, got it from a dead kennedy’s song…..
the armature is from an ultradash, so I think the name change sorta flows on, lol….
ph2t.
Definately comparable to the anima. Slightly quicker than it. But louder. I love the anima for it’s pure LACK of noise, lol.
Little less punchy than the S03. Betty had one in his xmod. (if ya reading this numbnuts please post a little comparison).
🙂
ph2t.
ak73 pro a, I have a few pcb’s I could remove one for you.
$5.70 USD is what I ask, that includes shipping to you. Payment via paypal.
Let me know if you’re interested.
cheers,
ph2t.
sick em rex!
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