ph2t

[ph2t]

haha, yeah….

[ph2t]

makes me feel better about my current outlay of $$ on the madforce….

still sorry to hear that though dude, least you were doing what it’s meant for when it shat itself……

bugger,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

tim, make sure you’re running the latest version of IE, goto http://windowsupdate.microsoft.com to get the latest updates.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

* I would NOW like to sell shares in PanicToys to the miniz population of the world 🙂 once NELLY tm hits the streets the world is gonna need some SERIOUS spare parts…

said like a true prophet, lol……..

[ph2t]

for once hog is on the back foot! lol…

[ph2t]

yeah come on slacka! lol…. really man, I appreciate all the work you do…Now if only you had a spare suspension pin for the front oil shocks……

goto http://www.divx.com and d/l the codec, this will allow you to play divx AVI’s on media player.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

the price of pushing the limits…..

[ph2t]

che?

Overlands have the same mounting method as racers? I don’t think so brutha!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

no-one dude :(. I’m using the Overland alloy front damper mount. There’s two available. The short one is a one-for-one replacement. The longer one allows you to extend the front end(moving the suspension pins forward a place). I’m using the longer one to get the longer wheel base.

The only bugger with the OL damper mount is that there’s no catches for the shell to mount on. I’m going to put some thick sponge stuff on the inside of the shell and just use the pressure to hold it in place. Otherwise the shell will still just “sit” on top of the alloy mount…

ph2t.

[ph2t]

sounds cool…. fingers crossed……

[ph2t]

yeah, I’ve seen that thread dude. there’s a link there somewhere to neurokinetic’s website that has a pretty good connection diagram, it’s for xmod’s but that doesn’t mattter, the layout’s the same….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

I think you need a blue mushroom buddy :p

gawd, another bloody hippie….

[ph2t]

Yup, spot on man. I’ll get the diagram soon, been slack…

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Hey Aaron, all these changes, will this explain the hideous time outs we’ve been getting over the last week?

thanks mate,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

Here ya dickhead

that’s only 14 tooth, fag!
oh well, better than nuttin’

[ph2t]

wow man! that’s great! never thought of that!

You’re such a resourceful bugger! lol….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Excellent man, as usual your knowledge kicks ass!

The armature pictured below is a plasma dash. Not modified at all, ripped straight out of the can.

Now the commutator pin closest to the foreground is the one that has two wires connected to it, where the loom starts and stops for the whole armature..

I know it’s not the easiest to see but the loom starts on the right adjacent commutator pin and then is wrapped clockwise for 27 turns. When finished the wire comes up to the left adjacent comutator pin and then goes onto the next winding. So I take it this is the “hemi” style of winding.

Is there any advantage to this method? Until I saw the guts of a plasma dash I was winding all my motors in the crosover style. This was because all the motors I had (mabuchi 130 stock, tamyia no-names, etc, etc…) were based on the crossover method.

Unfortunately I have no idead how I could balance any motors I made in any precise method.

Thanks again man.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

yeah dude, 150-200mA mark is correct. tested this myself ages ago…

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

………..Titanium pinion with alloy collet for 5.95 US from rcmart.com…….

gotta link for this badboy man?

ta,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Everyone has forgotten one major issue with the SBCG’s!!!!!!

Some SBCG’s (not all I’m led to believe) suffer from the very annoying trait of remembering the last command sent to them. So at the edge of your range the car doesn’t really stop but can go off in all directions.

Also some SBCG’s are twitchy with their commands.

Personally I would just buy the regular BCG’s and then put the SBCG pullback shells on them

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

………BBcans AND comm drops……….

what’s a comm drop???

[ph2t]

cosmo, where you at dude? Us melbournites are having a meet in a couple of weeks….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

JOWLZ plaese fill in this form….
……..
……..
……..

dude, now that’s a pissa!

[ph2t]

Quote:

Does anyone know the Watt rating of a stock Z PCB?

I’ve got a single Lipo (3.6v) project so I’d like to ideally use an Iwaver PCB without FET stack, but I’m hoping to run a Plasma. It’s in a boat, so the instanteneous current will be much lower, hopefully low enough. Don’t really want to buy a whole ‘real’ Z just for the PCB. I could also water cool the FETs. Thoughts?

A stock Z pcb would be around the 3W-3.5W mark. Assuming 4.8V. Under these conditions a plasma would definately blow it.

At 3.6V you would reduce power output by 1W appox. I’m still not certain that this would be enough room for the plasma to run in, especially under load. Although as you said, given the nature of the application the load curves are totally different…

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

Hey ph2t, i dont suppose you would give me the schematics and pcb layout with a list of all the neccessary components to me ?

sorry, I missed this. The components are listed in the first post man. The schematic is being drawn, gimme a few… The pcb layout was done in Circuit Maker 2000, http://www.circuitmaker.com/downloads/demos.htm. I can email the project file to you if you want. 🙂

cheers,

ph2t.

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