ph2t
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Quote:……………I suggest; s/s kingpins and suspension pins, and the 5.8mm milled ball joints….:D
Yo! what’s the dilly with the 5.8mm ball joints? Are they the larger ones?
You can get the damper sets from here:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_21_512&products_id=6170
Each day I check the amount of parts for the Madforce in the rcmart catalogue. Today it’s 33! The parts are starting to trickle through.
I’m waiting on some alloy front damper mounts for the OL. They are meant to be very similar to the madforce mounts BUT they don’t have the mounting tabs for the shell……..
ph2t.
We’ll bugger it all to hell….. What days are good for you man?
it’s for all to share…..
Well done fellas, looking good!
So who’s mugs are in this picture?
http://www.ausmicro.com/galleries/miniz/sydney25-4-04/imagepages/image21.htmlWho had the fastest car on the day? What were it’s specs?
Cheers,
ph2t.
sounds fair, that might be better, I’m ok for this date as well.
ph2t.
ask a pimp at bitpimps.lixlink.com, they’ll help you out….
so that was a clear shell to start with? wow! 😯
Sausage, mocky, I’m in Melbourne fellas. If you supply the fets, I’ll be happy to solder them in for no cost. PM me if your interested…
ph2t.
Yeah I’m in! I wanna have some serious 1/24 scale racing going on(looking @ micro) ……
ph2t.
Get some copper de-solder braid or buy a solder sucker! You can get these at Dick smiths, Jaycar, etc,etc…..
My only tip is that you need to be VERY careful for how long you leave the soldering iron on the PCB. too long will cause the copper tracks to raise of the surface and trust me, you don’t want that, lol…..
stock motors have carbon brushes, yes….
A 4×2 stack of fets can handle 25 turns easily so 30 turns won’t be a problem….ph2t.
yeah, it’s a bugger that it didn’t work out, BUT we’ll wait and see. I’m waiting on some mosfet driver chips from maxim-ic that might help out in this situation…….
ph2t.
dirty boys………
yeah, I made these brass lugs from some old piano parts (yes really!). These now connect straight to the battery connector…..
All I need these days is a low ohm meter. The best resolution I get is 0.x ohms.
ph2t.
2) is more threatening……..
oh crap!!!!!!!
thump him on behalf of me will ya?
ph2t.
Yo Big W! When are we gonna see the video from in the car?
ph2t.
with a 4×2 stack of IRF73893 mosfets I was getting 30kph, this was accuratly tracked by betty.k riding alongside with his bike and reading its speedo, lol………
Dunno, what it’s pulling now. I’ve gotta do a low turn motor now that the ESC can handle it. I was thinking 12 – 15 turns with neo magnets I got from draconius and .4-.5mm wire. these magnets are insane!
ph2t.
check the BCG for sale section, 🙂
feds after you boyo?
thanks bithed! 🙂
just took it for it’s first spin and I’m very happy! the car really punches off on take off. I running the 12 tooth pinon that comes in the rtr kit.
On my old 4*2 stack of IRF7389 MOSFETs my car would stop pulling wheelies after 2-3 minutes. With Woah Nelly, I was still pulling wheelies after 10 minutes, no shit….
Woah Nelly connects straight to the battery pack, the wires are very think and low loss. I now notice that the batteries get quite warm, a lot warmer than usual. I guess this is the increased current flow (due to the really low loss MOSFETS) that’s causing the extra heat.
During this whole time, Nelly never went over 25deg celsius.
:approve:
ph2t.
yup 🙂
I’ve run into a problem with the big pcb though. After putting the pcb into the circuit I only get 1.8V at the gate pin of the mosfets. This is too low to be able to turn them on properly :dead:. So unfortunately these fets won’t work. BUGGER!
I’m gonna try the large pcb on a daul cell, see if that’s enough input voltage to keep the drive on the gate pins sourced with enough current….
ph2t.
yeah, I noticed this at the 1/10 track we went to recently. everyone was sporting foams……..
look for a component on the PCB that smells basically.
look for grey/black discolouring and possibly physical damage to the part…
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