ph2t
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Well you know me Impreza, I have my finger constantly on the F5 button…………:smiley2:
Oh yeah, Melbourne, Australia.
ph2t.
Do you have a timeline yet Aaron as to when the new changes will go into production?
ph2t.
Barrell, I’ll say it again. They are eye candy. I doubt they cool the motor any more that the regular heatsink. If you realy want a better thermal response put some silicon grease in between the motor and the heatsink (avail at any electronics shop, Jaycar, Dick Smith, etc….). They say that these sinks are more aerodynamic, that’s crap! They are located within the shell of the car and not on the outside so I doubt that there’s any airflow around them at all.
The best suggestion is Panda’s and the % weight issue of the old sinks .vs the new…..
/…end rant…../
ph2t.
Impreza, they are purely eye candy man. I doubt there is any thermal transfer going on that would benefit the motor……… If anything, my Bensu clone heatsinks are better, they wrap around the motor in a more circuilar pattern which increases the area of contact…..
As promised here’s some video of the event.
Download it here. DivX 5.02 format.
Cheers,
ph2t.:smiley2:
Crom, a word of advice with Uni, get in and get out as quick as you can. I turned a 4 year degree into 6! Enjoyed myself a bit too much. 😉
That’s why it’s potluck when it comes to clones….:approve:
ph2t.
Good stuff, Jord……:D
Shypo, what are the 45 and 49 you mention? I take it the 49 is a US MSizer, what is the 45? A clone?
cheers,
ph2t.
M Coupe, I have the 27Mhz Rx-7 MS and it has no problems with the Compact Char-G 40Mhz and 49Mhz Mitsu Lancer MS.
ph2t.
Yeah, I’d be up for a chat room as well. AS if I didn’t do enough at work anyways……….:smiley2:
What’s the name of the software?
Hehe, Panda and I have seen the guts of this thing in real life. Maybe more Melbournians would be coming to the next meet knowing such goodies are available to check out!
😀
ph2t.I ripped apart a couple of my clones……
Or you can get them from here:
http://www.batterieswholesale.com/nimh.htm
Look for 1/4 AAA, they are rated at 150mAh and you can get them in a sample pack of 8 for $12USD.
Micro_Amps made a comment to me about the labels on these batts being wrong, can’t remember what he said but when he got them they were the correct ones.
Maybe you can go to their front door instead of mail order since they are located in Melbourne.
ph2t.
Edited by – ph2t on 01 May 2003 14:13:58
We hope to, next time we’ll do it properly and get a hall, about 20 meters of rope and make a track!:smiley2:
Let us know our movements Z and we’ll take it from there.
ph2t.
Fair point Z…..I sorta forgot that the PCB cover applies opposite pressure to the steering assembly cover. Micro’s dual had the battery cavity gouged out the other way, that is the back wall connecting to the motor assembly. Maybe I should do that since there is no structural issues there, from what I saw……..
Ahhh, good stuff man…. What do you use on the PC to design your ciruits? Does it do auto layout and stuff like that?
Cranga, yeah the screw is gone (needed the space), but the clip-in nature of the steering assembly cover is adequate. This is a test clone so I can perfect my methods before modding the real (expensive!) thing.
ph2t.
Yo Z! The motor is a clone @ 2.5 (you can thank micro’s DYNO for that measurement, damn that thing rocks!), the heatsink is from the same Bensu clone, not very good quality…. Yeah prahran pianos is my old man’s shop, worked there as a kid for years, he’s now decided to go online, site is still under construction……
Jamie, soon man, soon………:smiley2: Propo will work best straight off the mark, then build up to some serious top speed. Woah Nelly!!!!:shock:
ph2t. (who should be working…………)
Edited by – ph2t on 08 May 2003 18:49:36
Good stuff Kevsta, the daul batt mod I did the other day was on a clone, lest to say that I’ve learnt alot using my clone guinea pig.
The clone motor you speak of, has it a bell end contact on it like the yellow shown in this thread. The yellow in the pic was measured using micro’s DYNO at about a 2.5.
With the steering you can open the front assembly and check the position of the steering coil. In one of my clones the left coil was closer to the magnet than the right. This was due to bad mounting in production. I removed the coil, cleaned the glue from the area and fixed it back in and this balanced up the steering really well. Also at times the magnet isn’t fixed well to the steering arm and it can become loose. Just put a bit of glue in the arm and re-set the magnet in the centre and that helps as well. Just remember to put the magnet in the correct way or your steering goes to crap….
ph2t.
That’s the way it goes Downunder mate…….

CW, nice ride man.
Jord001, webshots won t work man, we’ve already tried it. See my “hosting pics for free” thread in the GENERAL CHAT.
ph2t.
CW, nice ride man.
Jord001, webshots won’t work man, we’ve already tried it. See my “hosting pics for free” thread in the GENERAL CHAT.
ph2t.
Clones are always potluck kevsta, you can get some great ones and you can get some serious crap too. To date all my clones though have better range than my TOMY originals, go figure!
I gotta say that $12.95 is a pretty good price for clones. I’ve usually bought them at $20 to $25 dollars each…..
feelin’ like a sucka now………..
ph2t.
Nah, this was just the charger part of the circuit on the controller that charges up the battery. The original controllers used the transistors in the known schematic, but the new revisions use this IC (LM293) to perform the same operations. Hell, I’m looking at a Bensu clone TX board right now and they use a 4013 CMOS chip.
So we have transistors/LM293/4013 CMOS all doing the same function: charging the battery.:)
So imagine how different the RF freq part of the circuits will be, damn…….!

ph2t.
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