ph2t

[ph2t]

CW, nice ride man.

Jord001, webshots won’t work man, we’ve already tried it. See my “hosting pics for free” thread in the GENERAL CHAT.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

CW, nice ride man.

Jord001, webshots won t work man, we’ve already tried it. See my “hosting pics for free” thread in the GENERAL CHAT.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Clones are always potluck kevsta, you can get some great ones and you can get some serious crap too. To date all my clones though have better range than my TOMY originals, go figure!

I gotta say that $12.95 is a pretty good price for clones. I’ve usually bought them at $20 to $25 dollars each…..

feelin’ like a sucka now………..

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Nah, this was just the charger part of the circuit on the controller that charges up the battery. The original controllers used the transistors in the known schematic, but the new revisions use this IC (LM293) to perform the same operations. Hell, I’m looking at a Bensu clone TX board right now and they use a 4013 CMOS chip.

So we have transistors/LM293/4013 CMOS all doing the same function: charging the battery.:)

So imagine how different the RF freq part of the circuits will be, damn…….!

ph2t.

[ph2t]

That’s what I reakon……….

[ph2t]

It will work Jamie. For the minute just concentrate on building the first stage, throttle. Small steps……….

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Strange, this has happened to me with two clones. A 27Mhz and a 49Mhz wouldn’t work together. The 49 killed the 27 everytime it sent a signal. I put it down to crap manufacture (or maybe the stickers on the car/controller were wrong, yet to open and check crystal value). Any ideas micro? Perhaps you can re-tune the 27Mhz car to it’s controller and also re-tune the 57Mhz car to it’s controller. This would help in the lest for range but would also help in making sure your car is tuned as best as it can be to the trasnmitter.

Just to confirm that both cars ar TOMYS? Sorry but it’s always good to ask.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Check my “home made springs” thread in BCG- Technical. They are from a DDS data tape used to backup data on servers. I beleive Hi-8’s might be compatitble also.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Quote:

Hi Ph2t,

has the computer you used something to set the bike’s wheel diameter or is it a simpler computer ?
I just found a computer bike here for 9 usd but it has not the adjustable wheel diameter. Is it usable for your dynotype project ?

Greetings
Efarel

Mate, I think you should be asking micro, not me…..:smiley2:

[ph2t]

Shame to hear that Lazboy, next time I’ll give a bit more notice, I apologise for that.:blush:

We had a great entertaining day, shared lots of ideas and ran the cars around a bit. Pandabear has some video of uA’s insane daul-batt, this thing just flys!!! Makes my Skyline GT-R with a 2.6 motor look like a dog. With our range mods (car rip-cap removed, longer s/steel car antenna, 2.6V chassis) we were getting the full length of the place which was about 9-10 meters. With the geat range and daul-bit speeds I believe a 7m * 4m track is possible, I guess that’s for the next meet……….:smiley2:

Anyway, enough of my late night, sleep deprived rants…..

Here’s some pics.

Micro and Panda

uA’s dual bat
Notice the PCB is flipped upright with holes drilled out of the plastic cover to compenstate for the high components. Nice work micro.:)

the toys….
And I didn’t even bring all my stuff……..

Keyance .vs the Bit

The misfits!
Crap digital camera flash. arghhh!

ph2t.

Edited by – ph2t on 27 April 2003 01:50:26

[ph2t]

We got some video today of the thing in action so as soon as PandaBear can dump it to his pc we might have some video for you as well.

:smiley16:

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Here’s another test, this time with imagestation.com.

[ph2t]

An idea that comes to mind is to have part of the cylinder that rotates being metal. Sorrunding a portion of this (on the stator) would be a coil that would attract the metal part of the cylinder when current was applied to it. More current, greater resistance/load. Unfortunately the load would not be even since it only occurs on a fragment of the total cylinder………

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I case of the schematic being different, do you mean for all the circuitry or for just the timing part of the circuit..? I’ve been told that the original MS’s / BitChar-G’s had what is shown in the schematic BUT the new transmitters use an LM293 voltage comparator in a time delay config.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

There is another site called imagestation or some thing. I’ll check it out one day soon………

[ph2t]

Lazboy, it IS happening. Check the thread here.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

In my discussions with Micro, Spanky I believe he used his treadmill to calibrate the results.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

That’s definately a 2.2 or 2.6. Same motor I got in my microsizers and compact char-g’s.

I’ve heard that by design the booster models run at half speed anyways and when you push the booster button they run at normal speed.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Yeah, it’s strange. I think I’m not gonna win this one. It worked for a while whilst I was testing last night, but now this morning I get the same error.

Oh well, I guess this was not meant to be.

Can you try and load the pic into a new browser window? Just right mouse button onto the cross where the pic should be and copy the URL details and paste that into a new browser and let me know what happens.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Heya micro I get the point! I’ll give you my wife’s phone number you can call and convince her. I bought the Nissan Skyline GT-R (Blue-40Mz) from Kmart two Sundays ago, cost me $48 bucks…..

So the last two weeks have cost me $7!! Oh well…

[ph2t]

Heya micro I get the point! I ll give you my wife’s phone number you can call and convince her. I bought the Nissan Skyline GT-R (Blue-40Mz) from Kmart two Sundays ago, cost me $48 bucks…..

So the last two weeks have cost me $7!! Oh well…

[ph2t]

Yes you will Nickos. A suitable replacement switch can be found at Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au), product code SP-0601.

Cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Yes you will Nickos. A suitable replacement switch can be found at Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au), product code SP-0601.

Cheers,

ph2t.

[ph2t]

Correct. You might find though that it is easier to NOT follow the path of the original antenna and just make it stick straight out of the shell at th rear of the car. What I mean is that the stock antenna loops around the circuit board and then through the shell. You don’t need to replicate this again.

ph2t.

[ph2t]

I’d like to see some pics of its guts!!!

cool!

ph2t.

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