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Oops sorry it’s 1/24th scale, ah well close enough! Looks like a chunky motor (260 type).

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Sorry if i’ve sidetracked a bit but has anyone tried using the ATOMIC “High precision” adjustable diff in their AWD? At the two extremes, very loose setting the car stays stationary while the diffs spin like mad and where it’s tightened up it will be a locked diff. My intentions is halfway to act like a proper diff and smooth but that’s not happening:( My problem is, that no matter what setting i’ve set it at, overall the diff has a fair bit of friction which drastically affects the speed (much slower than stock) which also gets the motor warmer than usual (Stock or x-speed). I haven’t opened up the diffs to take a look or tried any lubrication, thought i’d get some advice from anyone out there.

I’ve checked the free spinning of the outdrives in the knuckles and there’s no binding there. Seems like you can’t get the stock AWD diffs which are very smooth. Can’t wait for Kyosho to bring the ball diffs, would be much more expensive but less headache.

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Have you checked inside the gearbox to see if there is any gunk or perhaps some plastic offcut that may have fallen in the path where the motor is suppose to fit in?

Could also be the gear on your diff or pinion on the motor stripped.

I assume and as you have mentioned that the shaft etc are fine. As a last resort, at minimal cost you can get the replacement gearbox set Part #MM07 which also includes the cover, motor clip and spacers.

I got mine from TE for USD$3.70, here’s the link:

http://www.toyeast.com/v2/proddetail2.asp?pdtid=amm07

It’ll be new again, less headache too, i’m confident this will solve your problem assuming your gears aren’t stripped.

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Thanks kevsta!

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With my Kyosho MT fully decked out with all the aluminium upgrades possible, i’m running a 3Racing BB motor (with 5×2 7317 FETs), fits perfectly and running sweet with lots of low down torque for wheel spin, donuts and wheelies. Perhaps can try Aaron’s upcoming PN motors, sure looks tasty:)

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To add to that, i think the iWaver x-speed pro motor is slightly thicker by 0.5mm than stock which makes it very tight to fit.

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When you mention that you put an X-Speed Motor, do you mean iWaver’s cheapy or the real mecoy Kyosho X-Speed? I had a similar problem, well with the iWaver x-speed pro motor. Extremely tight fitting where you need quite a bit of force to fit the motor cover on (whether stock plastic or aftermarker aluminium). This is with whatever pinion/spacer combo i found. When i managed to get the motor cover back on the gear meshing appeared way too tight and noisy upon running.

With the Kyosho x-speed it fits like a glove and runs smooth as. Hope this info helps.

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What i should have added about foam tires on shiny surfaces. If the shiny surface is dusty it won’t make a difference with grip to the standard rubber tires. Once your mum or wife mops the floor clean then you’re in good business! 😀

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If your tiles are the shiny glossy ones, that’s just as driving on polished floor boards that’s probably dusty. Just like driving on ice. Foam tires don’t make any difference on shiny suraces, you’ll find there’s heaps of difference if you take it outside on concrete or a carpark area, will hold a straight line easier.

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A stock Iwaver 02 is not better than Mini-z mr02 in terms of quality of fitting and plastics. In dollars terms a RTR Iwaver 02 is much cheaper than the Mini-z mr02. The money you save on the Iwaver 02 and spent on modifications/hop up bits, it will be a better machine.

One thing you have to note is that the braking on the Mini-z mr02 is true braking, in that when going full throttle and slamming in reverse the car will come to a complete stop with minimum skidding. With the Iwaver 02 the so called braking merely taps on the brakes for short while. During slow speeds you will stop but during high speeds the car will jerk and you will continue to coast (most likely at the same high speed and into a wall!).

Iwaver 02 is good if you want a cheap unit, Mini-z mr02 is good if you want quality out of the box and true braking function.

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The P.D is rated at 2.3-3V? ie. for 2 cells I got mine today, ran it in and whacked it my mini z Madforce, lots of grunt (and wheelspin) but the motor sure gets very hot, almost in FET territory. Wouldn’t last that long if i keep going like this right?

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Good idea with the shock boots. Aaron, i’ve had the same issue with screws and ball joints coming loose off the aluminium parts on my monster. I also find a small dab of clear nail polish on the screww threads keeps them from coming out. Gives a neater finish unlike the blue/green loctite color.

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What are the blue covers over the shocks and where did you get them from? Are they heat shrink tube or blue tubing that just happen to be a snug fit? Does it affect full suspension travel?

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Hey z-beam, i’ve blown both the FETs on my iWaver 02 and 04 with the supposed 5A handling and 100% garanteed challenge. I did this with a well run in iWaver X-Speed (Not Pro) motor. Not such a big deal for me as i can replace the stocks with a stack of 7389’s or 7317’s (Thanks to Aaron and Ausmicro’s supply!) I wonder how many people out there have blown their FETs up after putting in beefed up motors? Seems to go well for a while but eventually the FET’s blow. I feel bad for those who are not solder/electronically skilled to change over the FETs themselves.

TE should at least throw in a pair of spare FETs! Think their RMA department will be busy!

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Sorry about the poor grammar guys, too many Christmas parties and drinking! :dead:

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icebreaka, i’ve done a similar setup to ph2t on my iWaver02 with 7389’s with the same 3×2 stake configuration. Sorry i can’t pictures but on the other side of the FET stack you can just solder all the pins together (on each vertical stack). If you look carefully at the solder tracks on the PCB, they are common rail.

This is what i’ve done and it works fine, good also in a structural way, keeps the stack nice and strong.

Definitely need to cut out the chassic, i didn’t do this originally, having to really push the chassis cover down tight. After a few runs the plastic started to warp and melt. Suppose in a way makes the cooling of the FETs more effective.

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The iWaver 02 car package is nice but not the FET’s, just roasted them tonight after about a week. This was with an X-Speed (Not Pro), not so sure about their FET challenge claim. Didn’t take much effort, Sony 800mA rechargeable certainly give more punch than Energiser 850mA and Jaycar Powertechs.

I haven’t opened to assess the damage yet but the white cover directly above the motoer pair of FET’s has melted and bubbled, good thing i got a spare MR-02 cover which after a bi of dremelling ill fit nicely.

Good thing i ordered a set of IRF7317s which are on their way, not sure how much clearance there is but hope to get at least a 3×2 stack soldered on.

Nice car but not bullet proof!

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Kerosene, have you tried an iWaver X-Speed motor? That’s running fine in my iw04 without a hitch and would take a lot more to blow that and seeing it’s only USD $0.99 at TE won’t hurt the wallet so much. Could possible be dodgy fets. Maybe try replacing the pair next to the motor terminals without stacking them to confirm.

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Good to see good oh mini hard yakka at work! Very impressive. Looking forward to your mod. The part that i’ve snapped is the bits that connects one of the front suspension springs (sorry can’t show pic cos no camera). I’ve tried using araldite expoxy but when i screw the ball connector, the force just breaks it off again. Any ideas anyone? :question:

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Good to see good oh mini hard yakka at work! Very impressive. Looking forward to your mod. The part that i’ve snapped is the bits that connects one of the front suspension springs (sorry can’t show pic cos no camera). I’ve tried using araldite expoxy but when i screw the ball connector, the force just breaks it off again. Any ideas anyone? :question:

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Yeah nice work Priest! Better get myself a Dremel and try it out. I’ve ordered a real mecoy front servo box and and original gears so that should take care of the front mechanicals. I can imagine there would be slight differences. It’s kinda weird as i’m slowly morphing my iw04 into a Kyosho flavour, then strenghten the suspension mounts with aluminium.

With the controller’s memory, i took out the batteries for at least two hours to charge, put them back in and the memory settings were still intact. Guess it’s got non-volatile memory like the USB memory drives, not bad at all. So far nothing has snapped off the controller yet, fingers crossed:):)

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Priest…sorry to hear that man and such a bummer just before x-mas! My first 01 Tx went bung on me first time round. Emm..what you call toygrease:D took them 2-3months to get their act together to send me another replacement! You really gotta hammer in the emails and complaints.

Bad news for me now, another hard prang into a metal chair, now my front gearbox meshing is all up the creek, crunching sounds don’t sound too good:sad:…basically no steering! Guess the servo saver wasn’t much of a saver! Might just put in real mecoy mini-z gears in it.

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Yeah the LED is cool, maybe can use it as a torch to look for your car in the dark! 😀

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Yup no worries, with the fit and finish of the transmitter it’s surprisingly good. The panels are all straight with no jagged edges of left over scrap. All the printed and text are straight and with correct spelling:D They have used a textured grain on the back of the pistol grip and a rubber coating cap on the top edge. There’s also a rubber strip on the front of the pistol grip. I’d give thumbs up to the transmitter, even for price as i think you can get if for USD $25.90 from ToyEast, not sure about shipping though. It’s a good controller to replace your old ones as you can store the memory settings of 10 cars.

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Oops what i meants in above post is the “stickers” are misaligned on the body:D. My typing is getting a bit like iWaver these days:dead:

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