Aaron
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And now a pic with a large number of these bits attached.
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Site Owner Guy.Here’s our first pic:
This shows the majority of the ‘packaged’ parts goign in Hot-Shoe-Blue. Most of this stuff is available through the ausmicro.com shop, and is being installed ‘as-is’ with no customisation. Once we’ve got it all together I’ll work on tweakign the parts to make things smoother , the goal right now is to emulate a standard off-the-shelf experience.
As you can see we’re giving the extensive range of iWaver alloy bits a go, overall the parts look great in a pile and will look even better in car!
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Site Owner Guy.Well the ‘Silly Season’ should be starting soon.
The Electronics, new chassis and the last of the alloy arrived today. Now just waiting on the ‘Eensy Weensy’ Spider board to come in from Fabrication (small and lighter), the Oil dampers, and the Kawada to arrive. Oh yes this shoudl be a fun little car! Pics over the next day!
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Site Owner Guy.OK Bugger date stuff up on our part. We’ll be in Sydeny on the Sunday but at the Cruise thing and likely to be free on Saturday….
Will confirm back…
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Site Owner Guy.I have two Firelap 04s in stock ….
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Site Owner Guy.OK The deal is done – Kitty and I will be there next weekend (Sunday teh 21st). We’re goign on a Mazda Club Cruise ont he Saturday, then on Sunday we’ll get ourselves over to Meadowbank.
Things for me to keep in mind. Taking the MX5 and it’s got sod-all space so I won’t be delivering much! Nor likely to bringing much int he way of cars to run. Probably bring a uRS4 and a ‘Spidered’ Z or two.
Hopefully by the end of today I’ll be able to charge batteries again!
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Site Owner Guy.About page 12 or 13 I think 🙂
Overall the ‘issue’ is as much a limitation of the Kyosho Electronics as it is an issue with overall MOSFET designs when used this way. Using a Quad (or 2x dual or 4×1) MOSFET drivers will meant hatt he FETs get driven witht he same voltage as the ‘Source’ (ie battery). This mankes them markedly more efficient and also means you can regulate the voltage to the board.
Overall it would be nice if the stock boards used MOSFET drivers, accepted any battery voltage, and so on. sadly not the case, although someone once suggested it may be possible with an iWaver board to achieve the affect of MOSFET drivers by cutting the power traces at a certain point and applying the higher battery voltage there.
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Site Owner Guy.Yikes!
Don’t feed teh PCB more than 5v!!!
The Gate outputs of the Kyosho Electronics will always be only around 3v and 5v no matter what voltage you feed in. That’s why FET drivers (like MAZ627) work well..
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Site Owner Guy.It will work fine. What’s been learnt is that the Gate voltages fromt he PCB don’t inclrease with the increased PCB voltage. The FET s we use are bassically ‘logic triggered’ types which means they’re ‘On’ or ‘OFF’ and the only variance is internal resistance.
Ofcourse the higher the gate voltage you feed in the lower the resistance.
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Site Owner Guy.Mount direct to the chips for the best results. I’ve tested with a heatsink tot he board and it does work, but the chips do run hotter.
I’m hoping to do some more playing this weekend with a demo car 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.We can only hope can’t we 🙂
The new front end looks ‘clunky’ to me but I think it’s for the best overall.
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Site Owner Guy.I thinkt he ideal way to make an OL track would be a use a thin plastic film (garbage bag) over a huge blob of that expanding foam stuff – not from a can but the mix-in-bucket version – then use a OL sized ‘trowel’ to drag the trancks in place, then once they’re roughed out use an OL or two to actually drive it to create wheel ruts and check turning radiuses etc.
I reckon it’s come out OK once you peel off the plastic and roungh it up and put on some finish. It’s even be driveable!
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Site Owner Guy.Keeping your Spider Happy
With a few units now out in the wild it seems just like every Turbo that’s gone before it there’s a need to remind people that while these things will may even a stock car faster you shoudl be careful when upping voltages or motors.
The Spider is designed to be small, and it can switch some pretty high current but this means nothing if you let it overheat. If you’re planning long repeated run-times or having LiPo power or even just runnign a HOT motor then I suggest attaching a small alloy heatsink over the chips. This will ensure continued performance and reduce risk of failure.
In short, don’t cook your Spider!
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Site Owner Guy.As you can see in the pic this is definately the ‘New’ 04 not the Firelap 04.
Here’s what we see as the changes:
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[*]Rear Upper suspension arms replaced by ‘shock absorbers’.
[*]Body mounts changed, with rear mounts still acting as shock mounts
[*]Rear motor /gearbox pod unchanged.
[*]Main chassis design appears unchanged
[*]Front suspension appears to use a double wishbone setup with single ‘shock absorber’ mounted ot the lower arm. The enture front structure mounts the main chassis and appears to be a very slab-sided box frame for strength.
[*]High mounted steering servo as shown by the wiring supports the independaent suspension design
[*]Steering servo is a microservo not a custom unit as previously used. Likely to be the same servo fitted to the new 02.
[*]Heavy duty from ‘bull bar’ to attampt to protect suspension parts from impact
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah – I keep forgetting the Jaycar Tradecard when I quote prices though. If anyone in Sydney has one (or access to one) use it for these becuase you get stuff for the next ‘Price break’ above what you’re buying. So with these power supplies you get the 3+ price if you buy one, buy 3 and you get he 6+ price of $80
The only thing that annoys me about Jaycar is they don’t stock decent wire and often don’t stock seemingly common stuff…
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Site Owner Guy.I don’t know about lucky
It’s goign to chew up a stupid amount of cash and given the lack of driving time I get it’s goign to have a hard hard life.But it shoudl look pretty and hopefully show just what can be done.
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Site Owner Guy.Yeah sorry about that – I’ve added the BareBoard diagrams to the Shop page, and also will be including the printout with the barebaords.
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Site Owner Guy.As in 19th of August Z-Beam? So you’d be in town on that weekend (Sunday the 21st…)
*thinks*
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Site Owner Guy.There may be a fix for the steering rate issue. It would all be about reducing the servo motor speed a touch 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.*laugsh* Well if the parts supply is a crap as it seems to have been (No chargers today guys, and my big box of bits from Japan is still ‘somewhere’) It may be next year 🙁
Seriously though, I have a few things I’d like to get workign so i can bring up some serious running gear!
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Site Owner Guy.MP 3078 from jaycar
I’ve e-mailed over the specs etc 🙂
Short ones are… 13.8V DC at 20A 🙂
It’s black 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.Just to put it ‘out there’ I’ll probably be up some time in the next 3-4 weeks. The goal is to have the Blue R34 running some very nice new electronics and Not break the servo gears like I have every other outing.
The MR02 project may see daylight there as well…. Assuming parts turn up. Ofcourse it doesn’t have electronics …. yet
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Site Owner Guy.OK. Cutting the thread at 50 pages to make it readable 🙂
Start a new one up guys 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.I turned off Gold and Rep-points (well left them disabled as they are disabled by default in the base code) because I felt they didn’t tell anyone much. Gold we all know was/is useless, and the rep point i didn’t understand how they worked to explain it to others 🙂
I can look at turning the Rep Points back on 🙂
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Site Owner Guy.I turned them off 🙂
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Site Owner Guy. -
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