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the star system is good because it will let the newer people know have an idea of who knows what they are talking about. also, it is not post quantity driven. b
too bad you don’t have an extra 12:1 gear. that might be where we would be able to see the importance of gearing. peace b.
two motors with one controlling each wheel would have to be monitored and adjusted due to the motors never being the same. the digiQ controls the speed of each motor which controls the speed of each wheel. if one motor spun faster due to better efficiency, the car would then turn to the other side of that wheel by itself. now if you connected them both to the same gear on one axle, that, would work to give you more torque and possibly more rpm, unless it takes too much juice from the battery. peace b
Great idea on the body velcro. I was going to do something similar to that but I broke one of the tabs off of my PC board cover so it wasn’t as strong as I’d like.
Glue the backside onto the original wheels? GREAT IDEA. I wish I would have thought of that! I just might try that
-Peter
True … True. And the easier the better!
-Peter
Yes it would but I don’t want to ruin another axle. I have to pound of the wheels and gear and glue them on to a longer axle which means I won’t be able to use that gear ratio on my regular bit. I used the orange only because I had 2 of them
I use that blue gear set on my bullet with my bit remote and it kickes butt. Out accelerates bit with 2.6 motor and higher top speed then bit with 3.0
-Peter
how big are these yokomo cars? the epoch indoor racers can be found on ebay for like 50 bucks shipped in the supra and gt-r skyline types. bodies are available and wheels and light kits. they go like 300km/h which would be around 7-10 mph i guess scale wise since it’s a 1/43 car. the size of two dbl a batteries end to end. with a normal remote with a side wheel like the 1/10 scale rtr’s have. looks pretty cool
ryan
I’d says it’s Quality over Quantity….
But this sites moniker is :
Size DOES Matter! :smiley4:
(j/K)
-Floyd
Hmmm. I dont think any type of rating system is necessary, and if its easier to maintain the forum w/o it, wouldnt it be better to chuck it? But if its already built-in, then its probably easier to leave it as it is. For the record, some of the best posts have come from brand new folks like that guy from italy w/the cool mod tip. 🙂
deejay40
Peter,
Im jealous of your tools! hehe. tool envy!
deejay40
I found the yokomo video. Its 4.5mb. I dont think it can be found anymore on the yokomo site, as I just searched the site for it. Soive uploaded it temporarily here, but I can only keep it up for a short time bec my ISP limits our maximum bandwidth usage and I dont want to reach my monthly quota too quickly… So grab it now, and then pass it around. Sorry for the inconvenience.
deejay40
Do you think this mod could be easier if you just glued the backside of the bigger wheels to the outside of the original bit wheels?Anybody think this would work?
Also, I was thinking you could use some double sided tape, a small square piece of foam, and some velcro to raise the body. Tape the foam to the PC board cover and use the velcro to attach the body to the foam. Makes it easier to switch bodies than hot glue.
Here are the part numbers4 most commonly found 1/3AAA single battery cells being sold today… BTW, couldnt find any Lithium Ion cells in 1/3AAA. Hope this helps in your searches.
Part# / Brand / Mah / type
N-50AAA sanyo 50mah NiCd
H-1/3AAA Vinic 100mah NiMH
GP-12AAAM GP 120mah NiMH
RRC1/3AAA120 RRC 120mah NiMHdeejay40
would putting a diffrent gear, with high torqe and low top speed give you more “push” off the motor and make it more like a real monster truck?
Here’s a GOOD PICTURE of the remote mod I made so the bullet and bit remotes are the same. In other words it swaps the forward/reverse control on the bullet.
http://www.geocities.com/pfabersac/bulletboard.html
Of corse you also have to swap the wires on going to the motor in the bullet as described erlier.
After this mod you can use either remote with either car. If you add a switch like I have posted in another toopic you can charge one while playing with the other even though same frequency. Just turn one off while charging
-Peter
The bullet axle is a little smaller so if you snap it into a bit it will be loose. You can drill out the bullet body to fit bit char-g axles and they work great. The axle gear and secondary gear (like come in the gear set) are identical to the blue gears but the motor on the bullet is mounted a little farther back from the secondary gear. So you can use the bullet motor in a bit if you put the black gear on and it runs like a 2.6 motor. It’s a little tighter fit but it dies work. You can use a bit motor in a bullet but you have to use the white gear that came with the bullet (not the same as white gear that comes with motors) and you have to be sure to push the motor all the way toward the right wheel since the bit motor is a little smaller and has to make contact on the back of the motor. Once you drill out the bullet for a bit axle you cannot use the bullet axle any since it will be loose. I drilled my for the simple fact that the bit wheels and tires are better quality. It seems the bullet is cheaper made and dosn’t have the tight tollerances of a bit. The wheels were making mine bump steer a lot especially since it goes so fast.
I also machined my front bullet wheels to fit bit tires. Since they were made so cheap the ridge around the middle of the wheel wasn’t very square it was kind of rounded so the tire was cupped when I put it on the wheel. After machining it straight (with a very small lathe) the tires fit perfectly sonoe Ican use hard bit tires on front.
The camera makes it look faster then it really is. I’m using the standard gears with a 2.2 motor but big tires reduces the gearing. It dosn’t go on carpet very well but tackles obsticles well. That was filmed on a tile floor where my regular bit bounces and bumb steers every time it hits the grout lines. This thing dosn’t even bounce a little.
-Peter
It’s a capacitor linking a couple of the resistors on the controller PCB that “cripples” the transmission range of the remote.
Ok! thanks for your opinion!
Man that is awsome.
It looks like it moves pretty good.
(What gearing and motor are you using?)
Lets see it going over some obstacles, on carpet and such.
-Floyd
I have both the (27mhz)AE86Trueno & (45mhz)Gloria sets.
My friend has the (45mhz)Blue Impreza.
I’ll check them tonight.
-Floyd
VERY cool
I gotta try some of this crazy stuff some day…
Aaron,
I see these things don’t use rechargable battaries.. whats the run time on these? I think I read somewhere about the “Tyco: Canned Heat” that the runtime was just over an hour, is that right? I have a friend in Thailand who says these “can cars” are dirt cheap and I’m thinking about getting one. I think they go for about $10 USD + shipping. you may want to see this.. although its mostly in Thai
http://www.rodkrapong.com/aboutus.htm
They also sell parts to modify.. engines, tires, bodyshells.. take a look.
Also it’s probably just easier to use one gear set (no need to add pins for gearing on the other side).
It depends what your looking for in an RC. the KG Racers don’t seem to be modifiable, nor are the Digi-Qs. The Bits and Z racers are, but the price gap is pretty big. For price vs. cost, avalability of parts etc, I think Bits are the way to go. If your looking for a more serious rc car, then spend the extra bucks on the Z’s.
Just my thoughts on your question.. :smiley2:
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