No probs Ryan I will get one ready and I will email you when its done coz with any luck the SMC chips should arrive tomorrow ready for programing (should fit any car then). I will keep you updated.
I’ll detail out how to get the graphics from the computer screen to your car body in an article at the same time the graphics go up. It’s not that hard, but it will require a color printer (inkjet or laser).
Let me just assure you it can be done, but it will probably require a trip to the hobby store, and an investment of around $5.00 USD for a couple materials–which you’ll be able to use for additional decals after the WRX is done. I’m actually planning a trip to the local hobby store this afternoon to have a chat with them about this, so I’ll try to get a “Required Materials for Do-It-Yourself Decals” up in the next day or two.
And welcome to the board. I just found my way here a day or 2 ago. My new Bit’s should be here monday (ordered 4) but already got the mod lists in my head..hehe
I know i want a few sets of these, i guess if it’s a word doc then anyone would make as many copies as they want for their wrx squadron. How the hell do you put computer printed graphics like that on a little car like the wrx body? i know there is a kit to adhere any pictures, ie magazine clippings, to the INSIDE of my 1/10 scale nitro rs4 bodies. But, that is not gonna be possible on the colored bits and the bits aren’t thin like lexan is.
Great to hear Derek.. UPS is saying my stuff will be in monday so you still have some time. hehe..
Else if my range is as bad as people are saying I might be compelled to look in to it my self. Although I’m sure my pics will not be as good as yours are.
Yeah – it had a surprising good quality paintjob from factory…. it was a touch’n’go decision to mod it. Ended up deciding to use it as another practice shell and will prbably get another one as a standard “showroom” car down the track.
Of course, anytime the WRX comes up, I feel obligated to talk about the status of the decals I’m working on. They’re coming along nicely. However, I dumped the Y2K color scheme in favor of the Y2K2 scheme. Hopefully, I’ll have them done by the end of next week!
Anyone make any headway checking out mods for the 4 channel controll yet? I know people were talking it is more complicated ( more parts that can fly where ever) while taking it appart.
Well they guy mailed me back and did say his antennas have little to do with improveing reception. That has more to do with the receiver design. Being the expert he is either trying to tell me that it is really the receivers fault or just trying to set my expectations properly about how much better things might be with his product.
Since I have not gotten my bit yet I guess I don’t have an accurate idea of what kinds of payloads it might be able to carry (ie antenna size effect on handeling) But I do know that his antennas really weigh nothing. They are kinda like a soda straw in weight/size/length so even at 5 inches long that still isn’t much.
Guess we will see. I missed the toledo air show a few weeks ago else I would have had the opertunity to talk to him in person.
But oh well.
Also got some other ideas for the bit compnets. Since I will be getting 4 cars the guts of 1 might just find it’s way in to the air:)
Given the nature of this site “where size does matter” and we’re all enthusiasts, thought all the readers here would love to have a surf through this guys site:
In particular, have a look at “Super Micro Car” (1/2the size of a Digi-Q)and some of the specs on the “Micro Car” (about the same size as a Bit Char-G . . . with a CCD camera mounted internally !).
Oh for what it’s worth I’ve plugged a 3.0 motor into my 57MHz booster car, and aside from causing desktop havoc with my clumsiness (600ml of water on me, desk, and office chair) and can report back…
When up to speed 3.0 motors ROCK
3.0 motors have no torque in low, so the 12:1 gears should be used which defests the speed purpose I think over say a 2.2 with the 9.86:1 gears.
Battery run time is diminished
Jumps higher when up to speed
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Overall great to impress your fellow racers but it didn’t rock my socks – that said witht eh right gearing and a good course it would blitz!
As we’re slowing learning, not ALL standard controllers are fitted with the (now infamous) “cripple capacitor”. It seems to be a hit and miss affair.
NOTE TO AARON: How hard would it be for us to set up a simple point-and-click survey to work out what packages have crippled controllers? Something along these lines with a series of five simple pull-downs would be good:
<--- Select One
onwards><--- Select One
<--- Select
One
<-- Select
One
<--- Select One
database – maximum 256 characters – eg owner name, if
mod was performed, final comments etc etc>
The “Pass xx” sticker just shows the quality control inspector that handled the final testing/inspection. The lowest number I’ve seen so far is 14 and the highest is 78. But I’m sure there could be more. See idea for the survey above – might be some value in tracking any relationship between the capacitor issue, general build quality and the inspector used.
Ok this is sorta a bummer but i have the lancer evolution which is the g-18 set which came out not too long ago and i opened up by remote to take out this dirty capacitor and looked around and guess what i found……NOTHING. I don’t have one at all. Nothing is connected to my R9 or the L3. And also in your pics derek you have a green sticker that has “Pass 28” which im guessing is the test they have to pass before sale production but on mine i have a yellow sticker that has pass 34. Weird? o well what can you do. Just for all the other lancer owners, don’t waste your time on opening it, it’s not there, lol. Later