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Let’s see…
1. Manta Ray needs body painted and rc gear put in.
2. Mini needs to have screw put in (still!)
3. Axis2 tourer needs a rethink.
4. Nitro Kyosho Lancer eneds a new home.
5. Need to re/build a trio of PB Mini Mustangs
6. Paint IS200 body
7. Finish Fox and sell it to someone less fortunate.
8. Rebuild 3 or 4 Schumacher electric/nitro trucks/buggies
9 Finish TB01
10 Get Kyosho Spider electric touring car moving.
11 Fix up 300zxI could go on…. but my head hurts…
Alex
About the last time you raced, hey zoomer?
it’s a standard australian compact char-g.
it’s a standard australian compact char-g.
I want to build a track timer with RFID. I built the IR system from http://www.geekfreaks.com for $250 however the Florida Sun makes it dificult becaus of IR reflections of the car roofs. I also want to use the software provided for FREE from rctiming.com (feelaps). This software interfaces seemlessly with AMBrc so the it will accept serial input with AMB protocols (I also need these). RFIDs provide a simple and cheap way to get started. Racers could get the tags from products purchased at some stores. And the readers are becomming cheap. Any and all help would be appreciated.
Mario Martinez
email
hack41LT at yahoo dot comRFID information
“Invented in 1969 and patented in 1973, but only now becoming commercially and technologically viable, RFID tags are essentially microchips, the tinier the better. Some are only 1/3 of a millimeter across. These chips act as transponders (transmitters/responders), always listening for a radio signal sent by transceivers, or RFID readers. When a transponder receives a certain radio query, it responds by transmitting its unique ID code, perhaps a 128-bit number, back to the transceiver. Most RFID tags don’t have batteries (How could they? They’re 1/3 of a millimeter!). Instead, they are powered by the radio signal that wakes them up and requests an answer.Most of these “broadcasts” are designed to be read between a few inches and several feet away, depending on the size of the antenna and the power driving the RFID tags (some are in fact powered by batteries, but due to the increased size and cost, they are not as common as the passive, non-battery-powered models). However, it is possible to increase that distance if you build a more sensitive RFID receiver.
RFID chips cost up to 50 cents, but prices are dropping. Once they get to 5 cents each, it will be cost-efficient to put RFID tags in almost anything that costs more than a dollar.
Toppan to Produce $20 RFID Reader
The Japanese printing company says it will have an ultra-low-cost EPC reader on the market by June.Jan. 23, 2003 – Toppan Printing Co., the $10 billion Japanese printing, electronics and industrial products manufacturer is working with two other Japanese firms to mass produce readers that will cost less than $20, as well as RFID tags and labels that will cost about 50 cents each.
never! that’d be too annoying.
i’m sure it can be fixed. oh, perhaps i should have mentioned that it used to work fine, just now it’s stopped. it wasn’t dropped or anything like that, so it’s strange…
in any case, i will see it fixed!
never! that’d be too annoying.
i’m sure it can be fixed. oh, perhaps i should have mentioned that it used to work fine, just now it’s stopped. it wasn’t dropped or anything like that, so it’s strange…
in any case, i will see it fixed!
i do, but i really wouldn’t know where to begin.
any ideas on what could be a likely area to start poking around with it?
if not, i guess i’ll just have to start from the start…
i do, but i really wouldn’t know where to begin.
any ideas on what could be a likely area to start poking around with it?
if not, i guess i’ll just have to start from the start…
boy have i ever. pressing, wriggling, etc.
i (carefully) disassembled the controller last night to see it there was anything that had come loose or visibly broken, but nothing stood out.
how irksome!
boy have i ever. pressing, wriggling, etc.
i (carefully) disassembled the controller last night to see it there was anything that had come loose or visibly broken, but nothing stood out.
how irksome!
i wish i did study some retail management subjects when i take my marketing degree… i now know nothing about retail management 🙁
the reason i start this topic is because i am currently doing a master of business in e-business course at uts, thats where i see the benefit of online business. setting up an online store is not that hard (there are some open source shopping cart). However, marketing and stocking is the problem especially i don’t have much money.
i am thinking about get a part time job in a hobby shop to get some experience.
hi pandabear, not sure about importing dvs and vcd to australia, cuz i think there is some custom regulations??
thanks for the input bithed.
i’m from hong kong. i’ve realised the retail price differece between hong kong and australia. australia rc models retail price is 2.5 times more than hong kong (even more for ESC, remote..). either the distributors or retailers do a huge markup on price. i did think about order the goods from hong kong distributors. anyway.. i’m still on the brainstorming stage…
Wow, cool group. Never seen so many nice people willin’ to help eachother like that. Nice to see. This forum is pretty coo.
so are miniz and xmod the same?
he did for the last two weeks to you i think or who ever sold these on ebay but no one replies so i guess im stuck with these now
well if it can be done same way as xmod on miniz then i’ll try it otherwise my badluck hehehehe
thats great
thanks ph2t
i wouldnt be wasting my time if i didnt need to
but because my friend bought the rong ones of ebay for 25$ im stuck with these nowso just wandering how to use it would it be exactly the same as the link http://www.geocities.com/mastermind_sound_solutions/NFUD.html
to connect to a mini z?
so it would connect the same way as in the diagram and wont wreck the miniz??
so you mean to say it would wire or solder the same???/ and is ok for miniz?
the diagram:
http://www.geocities.com/mastermind_sound_solutions/NFUD.htmlFrom top to bottom, the first and third FETs are N channel IRL3705 FETs, the second and fourth FETs are IRF4905 P channel FETs.
is this how you would get these two fets working on a mini z?solder it exactly the same way?
or it only works on iweaver?can the irf4905 and irl3705 be used on the mini z???
i was suppose to get irf7389 but got the wrong thing………
if it could be use could you show me hot to use them spent 25$ and dont even noe what to do with these fets
thanks
hi there
awhile ago i got my friend to purchase irf7389 from ebay from youbut he ended up getting the wrong thing because the pages look similar
he end up getting me IRL3705 FETs, IRF4905 P channel FETs
just wandering how do i use this on the mini z i have never seen these before????
and at the moment my car cannot go forward but can go reverse so im assuming my stock fets have something wrong thats y i needed the irf7389
so could someone help me soo me how to use these fets to get my car working again
thanks
looks like you guys are gonna have some fun, take plenty of pics and vids!
Um…….. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Willy… can I have my M3 back now??? lol…
I guess I’m not the only one looking forward to the M3 shell re-release… want to do a Motul tarmac rally one if I can…
Yeah, Roland the Rat… amazing that you never hear of people remembering his death…
Alex
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