betty.k
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i’ll bet my left knacker i’m right. cambered knuckles sold in positive degrees lean towards the middle. i’m pretty darn sure i’m right.
are there any situations where outward leaning wheels are needed?:8ball:
that’s a cute little track!:smiley2: i envy the indoorness of it all!
merc http://www.microtrucks.de/:8ball:Edited by – betty.k on 18 August 2004 19:58:59
gots to correct you there max, when the top of the wheels lean inward, that’s camber. when they lean out that’s negative camber:8ball:
as for i waver aftermarket stuff, if it’s released i’d avoid everything except a pcb and maybe crystals. the weak point of an i waver is the cheap brittle plastic they use. if you break parts it pays to replace them with parts that won’t break (as easily):8ball:
true, that’s negative camber. i’m not sure what you would want that for though:8ball:
the honeymoon’s over:8ball:
hey kitsune, bring a tin racer. i’ve never seen one and from what i’ve heard yours will give our z’s a run for their money!:p:8ball:
thanks for putting those pics up, i can’t get to the iwaver site for some reason, i get as far as the intro then it just seems to load forever without actually loading! impressive package to say the least!:p:8ball:
camber is the angle at which the wheels lean towards the center of the car.:8ball:
i think there’s one for sale in the larger scale for sale forum (drift car) from virgin atlantic:8ball:
i’ve had the same thing happen to me, and i cured it the same way you did. this also happens with larger motors that have bushings too.
and jamie’s right, i dropped a motor in a cup of tea once! it never skipped a beat and still runs fine!:8ball:yeah, it’s bcg size. needs detailing but definately lookin good enough to just leave as is:8ball:
i was yakking about this with jamie. he says that running your bb’s completely dry is the way to go. that means no oil at all, wd40 is oil. he claims to have increased top speed in his z by 10kph by cleaning out the bearings.:8ball:
update:
it’s here!! and well worth the wait too. i’ll get a pic up soon. it’s a white custom molded ’57 chev with some cool green flame work. rcmod will be selling these and buyers won’t be disapointed, they’re great looking shells. so big thanks to the crew at rcmod, they copped some flak about the slow updates and delivery of prizes (from me:blush:) so i’ll eat those words now!:8ball:
hiya uhu! aren’t you a lucky duck! you live in a town with the meanest most scary fastest monster z there is!:shock:
http://www.ausmicro.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2458&FORUM_ID=13&CAT_ID=4&Topic_Title=my+7%2E4V+li%2Dpoly+madforce%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E&Forum_Title=Mini%2DZ%2C+Mini%2DX%2C+X%2DMods+%2D+Technicalwe try to meet often in templestowe where there is a 1:10 scale road racetrack. but don’t let that stop you, it’s surrounded by dirt:p here’s a link to the club that races there, all the track info is there.
http://users.bigpond.net.au/putnam/:8ball:aha! thanks for that. so why do we see extreme castor on offroaders more than street cars?:8ball:
pardon my ignorance, what’s castor?:8ball:
merc, you sound like you got a guilty conscience!:8ball:
fortunately spring steel is magnetically attractive. i always have a big magnet right on the diff when removing the e clip. you should have one on your old stock diff (if you have one).
jamie told me to set your diff up so it slips just a little on take off. like a poor mans traction control, have it so the diff slips before the tyres do.:8ball:i will look into this, i’m gonna have a spare zz lightset soon and the connectors are the same as the xmod. different functions though, i plugged the zzse lights into the xmod but they didn’t work. but i’m sure they can be made to work.
EDIT
ok, just yoinked the lights outta a zzse body. and those nice people at rs labelled the wires for us!:D
brown = vcc (positive)
red = ground (negative)
orange = bl (back lights?)
yellow = fl (front lights?)here’s what i’d try next. connect vcc and gnd to the + and – respectively, either on the pcb or straight onto the battery. then connect the “fl” wire to the motor terminal marked “f” or the positive looking one, and the “bl” wire to the motor terminal marked “b” or the negative looking one. let us know how it goes:8ball:
Edited by – betty.k on 15 August 2004 14:57:11
sounds impressive!:p love to see it sometime:8ball:
the short answer is yes. the only case where no suspension is needed is a perfectly flat, smooth surface, like glass.
basically, a wheel that’s airborne cannot turn, accelerate or brake. the job of suspension is to keep wheels on the driving surface, not just for comfort.
try replacing the springs with solid blocks and see how it handles. my guess is it will bounce around alot. if you don’t believe it’s doing anything twist a bit of wire around the kingpin above the stabiliser bar so it won’t move unless the suspension moves. drive it around and see if the wire is still above the stabiliser bar or if it’s been pushed up.i’m using stiff springs up front and my suspension is moving fine. in general you want the front suspension to be harder up front compared to the rear:8ball:
i now know the true meaning of “scary fast”!:dead::8ball:
the last week or so has been good, before that it was pretty rough going!:8ball:
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