dgs73
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nice stickers dood…:smiley2::approve: Yeah i was suprised after i opened my T box… they dwarf Zs… very nice mate. Why no pics with the shell off? Let me know how she goes… this one’ll be my birthday pressie to myself… just two months to go…:)
we’ve got my mate Hugh to thank for that… i’m gonna ban his car from my driveway i think, while there’s still some gravel to preserve… you’re right though, and i thought the Monster was fun out back… the T is a blast, especially in (what’s left of) the gravel…
thought as much.. getting em when i get the motor/batt. pack combo next week. So what’s your lhs damage on ball diff? (price…)
Quote:Heres another quote i found:You know you are truly obsessed with R/C when you can say “My balls feel gritty” without cracking a grin”…
Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 07 December 2004 23:08:08
gritty balls are caused by your J-string moving out of place:D
Quote:who stocks that tape?Me!!! (sorta…) 3M my man… supply us with all our adhesives/sandpaper/misc. stuff. What you need?
Quote:i’m done for the year… having an off-road track in your backyard helps though…:approve:and Meadowbank park IS virtually a stones throw away… ok im in:smiley2:
z-beam; depends on whether we’re having stuff done in the particular colour or not. Was thinking red myself, green’s not bad either, both are colours you dont tend to see here (on Z stuff). As for cost, other than the above factor, depends on amount being done. As Z stuff is so small, i’d guess the full range of alloy parts (batt. clips, motor mount, bulk head, and all shock parts that are usually done); about $10-15 bucks. Thats if the colours are different to what we were getting done. Less if otherwise:approve::D
Edited by – dgs73 on 08 December 2004 09:29:07
did’nt say it would’nt be an improvement… don’t want the added servicing duties, so i’m not going to get a ball diff yet. Simple and easy explanation. Maybe later, when NEEDED
it’s closer for me than Penshurst… but will no doubt head to both.:D
i was talked out of the ball diff, and with good reason. Anyway, the rest of the peices are going in soon, bearings went in last night (and i thought doing a Z’s bearing was fast!!:approve:) Mate if you’re going off road with it (and why not?) dont do the ball diff. Or do, its up to you, but not for backyard bashing. You’ll see what i mean soon enough. As for the spacers, what size you using? I’ve been jumping the thing off the stairs in my house, making jumps outta whatever’s at hand, it loves it all. Does’nt bottom out like it was, but oil shocks are high on my list of priorities… btw, how the hell did you snap your cvd’s??:shock: So you had to order from CMC, not in stock? I’ll be heading to Kell’s after all. Not a patient person…:smiley2:
takata; i’ve thought about ceramic ball diffs, (and have ceramic ball bearings in one of my Zs:approve:), but have been more than happy with my Square diff. Prices are (off the Bit’s site); 01 Square diff in gun metal or purple anodised accents… $39.90 usd. Titanium shafts; 01 is $22.90usd, 02 is $29.90. Well worth the extra cash if serious about performance.:D
that took some courage mate… good job though:approve:
right, they showed up a moment ago… the measurements are; outer diameter is 8mm, inner diameter is 4mm, thickness is 3mm. All eight are the same size. This, however, is only the 8 wheel bearings. Have’nt gone in to look around the gearbox… yet. Will get back with the gearbox bearings dimensions shortly…
the only gathering I know of down your way is at Tepmlestow (sp.) raceway… and that might not be close at all (i’m in Sydney.)
he has a site, just go to any of his posts and there will be a link to his web site… give him a hoy and tell him i sent you…:D:smiley2: he does’nt stock rims (as a norm), but he does have access to any little Z related thing you could care to mention. And afew you might mot have even seen. Drop him a PM or click the link in his posts.:approve:
hmm… really want to get the Lancer/GTR 2F2F light up shell set, plus the clk55 Merc… oh the waiting! The waiting!!:clown:
mate i can suggest two methods; drop in to your local anodiser (teehee…), where they can strip back and do a colour you like (there are much more anodising colours available than what is offered…), or polish the face of the rims back by hand, (does’nt take long), leaving the blue on the inside (and frankly, impossible to hit if doing by hand), which give a cool (and unique!!) two tone finish. (My Supra has a similar look on the black Eagle rims, but i only did the edge of the rim itself.) Try Dinball or r/c mart for cheaper alloys, or BITHED for the pricier (and sooo detailed!) Square, Squat and Eagle rims. Top dollar item, but the detail is more scale too. Add the fact that Square make inch-up wheels (diam. is two mm bigger = more speed), which really are the top s**t in my opinion.
when you say take off the blue, do you mean stipping back the anodising? possible, but not fun… they look to be your best bet though. appear to be wide all round, which is better suited if you want a wide body running. Why 02 wheels, btw? The thing is, one type is made for one chassis, the other for the other. No easy way to mix ‘n match… Best bet; get wide 01 wheels (you’ll find the style you want alot easier (and much cheaper!!)), that way there can be no issues. As for your other question concerning 02 parts, same situation. Just get 01 parts. 02 parts are not an upgrade on 01 parts, they are made for the 02 chassis, and hence fitting on an 01 would be difficult/impossible. Looks like you’re after a full scale effect. If this is the case, and your doing a 1/24 scale conversion, make a new h-plate. Makes the wheels sit evenly in their archs…
02 tend to have no offset on front, so on 01 chassis the rear width would be the usual wide setup, but it would make your front wheels sit inside the wheel arch quite a bit. I could make this easier for both of us; what type of body do you have/are you planning to get? After looking at your 3 links, its kinda hard to tell. The widths are there, but the offset can be dicey. It does’nt mention an offset, just specifies which chassis they will fit on. Those details would not be enough for me to make a purchase decision:blush:
i think my working with metal might actually be useful now…
shape was cool… just not enough strength were needed… gonna mod the shape and with the addition of a couple of folds here and there will see it standing up to alot more. Let me know the position of the screw holes of the front “bumper” on your 18t when it shows and i’ll sort you something out. 😀
you wanting to get your hands on afew shafts again dood?:smiley2::clown:
note to anyone who wanted to get one of those flash lookin’ carbon bumpers for your T? Don’t do it. Snapped it in about an hour. Aluminium ones i will be doing from this week. Bithed; wont do the template now, how about a funky aluminium one instead?:smiley2::D
still checking the mail for the bearings, as soon as they show their dimentions will be on their way to you…
have a look at Z-beam’s Camaro in his gallery (and have a look in mine, too!!:smiley2: shameless plug…blackeye:), you’ll see that alot can be done without chaging the electronics at all… might have a hard time fitting interior though…:p
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