jamiekulhanek

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

Crickey! you guy’s ain’t just good lookin’..smart too! Removed batteries and tested cells individually. Tis’ true that a single charge isn’t enough however they did come up to 60%-70% and the second charge 90%-100% at 1.37 volts apiece. I did this three times with approximately the same result. A third charge was tried but no measurable difference was found, they did however become warm. Last year charged a “c” cell made in France, but only came up to 75% so repeated charge, after a while could hear hissing sound then several loud pop’s, negative end cap had bubbled out and battery was red hot, been a bit shakey about this repeated charge business ever since.

Don’t go by the voltage, a battery charge cycle is not linear, a single charge only charges the cell at around 10%.

For best results, install a DIN switch, and charge the battery using a delta peak charger.

I found that the “load” of the PCB on the cell caused the charger to freak out and cancel charging, hence the need for a switch.

[jamiekulhanek]

You will notice a big difference in torque, speed and acceleration with AAA NiMH’s in the car…

And longer runtimes too!

[jamiekulhanek]

Bithed means pack paper behind and down the sides of the TRIMPOT INSIDE the servo… stops it moving and glitching.

It does do wonders for like $0.000000000000001

Are you using NiMH batteries, or Alkalines??

[jamiekulhanek]

bithed, gimme a few days to work out my financial position, just bought a new OS engine for my 1/10…

[jamiekulhanek]

I think i could whip up a 100km/h setup if you’d like dave…

[jamiekulhanek]

Bithed i’m awaiting that email…

[jamiekulhanek]

Commutaor drops are generally used for 5 minute races etc.

Mini Z races go longer, so you would get a dirty commutator by the end of a race and need to strip and clean.

[jamiekulhanek]

I was gonna say you should have asked about hopups first, some of those do squat…the stabilizer is useless, i got one myself and the stock one does the same, if not, better job.

The x speed is still a quick motor, and takes some learning and skill to drive.

[jamiekulhanek]

nah i’ll pass, i want that DTX MQ MT.

kevsta, expect about 30USD or so for shipping.

[jamiekulhanek]

well.. if i move to the mainland then i might just haveto get back into the hobby…

[jamiekulhanek]

Hey mrbishi, and welcome to ausmicro.com!

Just you wait, this hobby will consume you! 🙂

The topcad diffs are usually not too smooth when new, and need a lot of breaking in.

In my 84km/h MR01 it was a fantastic diff once broken in, but do remember to drive with it fairly loose untill the diff action is very smooth and doesn’t feel grainy.

May i ask where you ordered it from?

And what other hopups did you order??

Cheers, and enjoy your stay :smiley2:

[jamiekulhanek]

Quote:

it’s gained 15kph since you modded it for me matey…:smiley2: but yes would not be as fast if not for you… dont worry, I have’nt forgotten your handywork…:D btw, up to 57kph now…:shock:

Edited by – dgs73 on 13 September 2004 15:19:59

Sounds like it’s all broken in, next time i replace the brushes, try running it on low throttle for a few good runs, the extra current from boostin’ it while the comm/brush was not worn in may have burnt and oxidized the commy surface…hopefully we will hit 60km/h next time.

[jamiekulhanek]

sweet man, i’ve heard your prices are good…

[jamiekulhanek]

There ARE videos of it in action…

http://www.duratrax.com/gallery/dtxd11-01b.mpg

and

http://www.duratrax.com/gallery/dtxd11-02b.mpg

I have no doubts of the popularity, it’s great value for money. It comes 100% RTR.

In the box there is absolutely everything you need….the downside??

The charger is an 110v Merikan charger….

The kit comes with:

-Preassembled truck
-Pre-Painted body
-Installed ESC
-Installed Futaba Receiver
-Installed Futaba Servo
-Futaba 2ch pistol Transmitter
-DTX 400 class motor (big)
-DTX 6 cell 7.2v 2/3A 600mah NiCad pack
-8 AA alkaline cells for Transmitter
-110v wall charger :dead:
-Decals

Thats great value for 199 US, but merc blue and myself think that the price may drop to $150US for christmas.

[jamiekulhanek]

Remember these motors are about 25-30% efficient at best….

Try graphite lube on the gears…could help.

And the battery is replaceable with a 200mah NiMH cell the same size as the original.

A single charge only charges the battery up to 10%

[jamiekulhanek]

ok bithed, i’m holding on, i’ve never purchased from you, due to me not having paypal etc. i think it’s time to try the bithed experience…

[jamiekulhanek]

Far out, i think my brain just failed trying to take all that in!!!

[jamiekulhanek]

Hope its all going swell dave…

Try using selleys contact adhesive to mount the body clips, unlike CA or “super” glue, it aint brittle and wont break off in a hurry. Just add the contact adhesive to each surface, leave for about 15-20 minutes then push the togeter and clamp them some how, remember to clean and buff both surfaces.

[jamiekulhanek]

Well i have had both.

The mini Z is a very high quality Racing Machine, with KO Propo brand Electronics.

It’s made by a reputable R/C company, Kyosho.

Despite popular belief, the XMOD is NOT cheaper than a Mini Z, it takes quite a bit of money to get an XMOD upto the standard of a Mini Z.

Yes that GT40 is for an i waver/mini Z, if you go to http://www.tinyrc.com and find the xmods threads, you will find tips on how to mount the GT40 body.

[jamiekulhanek]

I’m in, im gonna get a single Digi Q tank to hack and fix my digi-q tiger tank….

Since Konami gave me the shaft…

[jamiekulhanek]

Yeah that R34 is quick, must take a lot of mod skills to make it perform like it does :):smiley2: jk:D

[jamiekulhanek]

In my experience with mini Z’s, i have found essential for good handling:

-Ball bearings (dry work much better)

-Ball diff (smoothens out drivers input and has LSD effect)

-CF H-Plates (the stock ones break easily, and don’t scrimp, buy kyosho or GPM, some other brands use cheaper carbonfibre which doesnt always return to its original shape)

-Tyres…whatever is needed for the surface, smoothe concrete and 40 degree compound go together well, on carpet/ashphalt (smooth) 30 degree or lower works good.
You may need to get wider rims to use wider tyres, depending what RTR set you get.

-NiMH batteries, i suggest Energizer (make sure they say made in japan) or SANYO, jaycar cells are good too, but when using high power motors, the Japanese cells shine.

-Faster motors/ESC/battery modifications…well, the sky is the limit whn it comes to power in a mini Z, i myself built one that topped out at 84km/h on the Tamiya Speed Checker…one potent machine that was…when it was running right…

[jamiekulhanek]

kevsta,

A, it doesn’t get released for about 5 weeks.

B, it’s very potent and well equipped as standard. Just watch the videos on the DTX site.

C, the hopups you’d be needing is maybe a quicker motor (it has a 400 size stock) and maybe an ESC to match, hopefully ProLine will make a range of tyres for it, also turnbuckles and CVD’s would add a little more tunability….

Other things like springs/different silicone shock oil could help tailor the handling to a given surface…

Just wait and see though, if a vehicle becomes popular, so does the aftermarket range, therefore the hopup company has found a nieche, at the moment, it ain’t popular because nobody has one…expect DTX to release alloy parts…

[jamiekulhanek]

More info on the DuraTrax Mini Quake..

http://the-rc-zone.com/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=1127FEATURES: Chassis: Composite tub style with countersunk screws
Drive: Four wheel shaft drive
Motor 380 motor
Radio: 2-channel AM pistol grip made by Futaba with steering and
throttle trim, adjustable steering rate, charge jack for optional
NiCd batteries, battery LED and one SX100 servo for steering
Ball bearings: Full set included –total
Shocks: Eight oil filled body
Gearbox: Sealed front and rear
Tires: 2.75″ (70mm) diameter, 1.6″ (40mm) wide rubber
Wheels: Five spoke ” ( mm) diameter, ” ( mm) wide
Speed Control: Electronic forward and reverse with connector
Bumpers: Front and rear black plastic with skidplates
Suspension: Fully independent
Camber Tie Rods: (fixed non-adjustable, adjustable)
(Camber is how the tires sit vertically)
Steering Tie Rods: Fixed non-adjustable,
(Caster/Toe-in is how the tires point inward as viewed from above)
Steering:
Servo Saver: Included
Warranty Period:

INCLUDES: Duratrax Mini Quake with eight oil-filled shocks, 380 motor,
electronic speed control, painted body, tires, foam inserts,
wheels, — tooth pinion gear, –spur gear, instructions
decals, 2-channel radio, eight AA batteries, NiCd battery with _
charger

REQUIRES:

SPECS: VEHICLE-
Length: 9.5″ (240mm)
Width: 7.4″ (185mm)
Height: 4.7″ (120mm)
Weight: 25 oz (725g) approx.

Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 11 September 2004 15:03:03

[jamiekulhanek]

Trash is there ANYTHING you don’t have??:D

One of my dads mates built a hovercraft, had a 8hp engine for lifting and a toyota corolla engine for movement. Very nice called the wasp i think, cause it was black and yellow.

A bloke down south tassie had his hovercraft (which he’d painstakingly built himself) stolen. The thieves couldn’t start it, so they torched it….blackeye:

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