jamiekulhanek
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lol lancer_evo/VR-4/magtec_racing -all the same person, and he has one more ‘alias’
Thats right they are only those weeny little 3 pin FETs, so thats why you need 4 stacks.
Quote:So it is still a 4×3 so blah!:smiley2:ph2t.
Hahahaha i get ya now, i know very little about the bit electronics:p
Yeah i cant wait either, its gonna be fully schick mate, but if you wanted to adapt the drivetrain to a monster it’s bye bye rear suspension.
Dual FET and a 1.6 motor should be quick to begin with, then i will upgrade. I just cant wait to get onto the track and use those gears!!!
Not sure about ratios though, i have some kitt racer gears and toyworld sells ’em pretty darned cheap. I think 8.25:1 and 4.57:1 would be o.k. ratios…all depends on the ratio of the afx axle.
How would a single cell FET modded PCB with a 4.2 motor go???
Ahhh but i don’t want too much power i want a great handling car……..hmmmm 2 speed monster truck trent????
course not!!
micro what do you think of the zed compared to Xmods?
Mortgage your wife man :smiley2:
Usually in mini Z’s we only modd the ESC side, because the FET on the motor side can supply plenty of juice to the tiny steering motor. So i guess its more of like a 3×2 stack for each the steering and Motor.:smiley16:
The wild char-g has a gear shifter inside which changes the ratios of the 2 rear wheels to change speed, i’d love a REAL 2 speed bit so i could wheelspin in all gears 🙂
This week i am too busy but i have a bit ready to hack, and a piece of fibreglass for a pan chassis.
Question: I was thinking either a dual cell or a single cell FET car, do these have around the same power, because i want to keep weight down.
I may aswell buy an AFX slotcar and use the wheels and drivetrain…and perhaps the body.
Id rather put the cash towards buying a new 1:1 car….750 aint alot, but you gotta get there somehow.
Though i am not interested in building the car, im going to keep an eye out for any parts that might be useful. Wonder if the RX/TX is any good?
Ohhhhhhh
They sell bugger all mini Z stuff and it aint that cheap, dinball is the bomb, ive spent in excess of 500 big ones there.
Is that an overlander in the background???
Nice work BTW.
Man don’t you find that with all that torque and weight to lumber around the gear coupling breaks?? I have broken 2 with a dual cell bit.
A man in a suit playing with little toy cars-a sight to see 🙂
I have a tri cell wild char-g, has a fair bit of torque but needs fets and a wheelie bar. The slipper clutches have failed lol.
Reverse does not work and after hunting around the PCB with a multi meter i am still baffled as to why this is so…
Just had a great idea!!! Using the insides of the wild char-g i am going to attemp to make a dual cell, perhaps fet modded with a 2 speed transmission waddya think??? might use an AFX diff. to make life easier.
Edited by – jamiekulhanek on 01 March 2004 11:17:35
I put in my 9%
http://community.webshots.com/album/121683602wtRGml
It must be your browser, because i have tried the link on 3 computers and they all work fine.
Ever seen an RC get attacked by a plane??? AT the local RC airplane club a guy was flying a glider, and a starling kept diving on it, and put a few holes in the wing.
ive never bought from them, do they sell mini z stuff?
man cf cards are dirt cheap these days. not exactly ‘compact’ anymore :smiley2:
My camera is a 320×240 Casio QV-10B, i guess it’s okay for webshots but it’s useless for photos. I was only like 10 when i got it.
The nice function that attracted me was the ability to plug the bugger into the TV and play a ‘slideshow’, though the res on the screen was truly awful:sad:
Yup that’s a TO220, perfect size. both surfaces were rubbed back, and a layer of heatsink compound was added. It works a damn sight better than the piddly little alloy heatsink made by Yeah Racing.
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