jollyboss
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Yes the blanck and red wires are power from batteries…
How shall I use the multimeter to che the channel?I mean,which parameter shall I select on the multimeter(Voltage,ohm,ecc)
Thanks!ok I’ve found several TO220,the last questions(I hope)
shall I desolder the fets built or just solder the new one into the empty slot?
Shall I put NPN or PNP mosfet?I forgot to mention it…
I’d use for an Iwaver 02,Im bored to de- and re-solder those 4 wires-servos…
The smalles parts for mini rc are the mini-x ESC and RX,but they’re alittle tricky to fit under the Saleen body…I don’t have a mini-x chassis/motor…I’d like to use the esc on another model and since I have burnt an EB,and since the ESC is rated for 8A,putting some better fet it SHOULD be able to run a middle power motor…or not?
I didn’t got well..are there several kinds of TO220?which shall I get for the ESC?
Maybe a link to purchase them…
Thanks!bb can search on rcmart,for the atomic one.it costs $12 and includes carbon brushes and neo mags
anyway…there was a ph2t eview about mini-x..one of the weak point highlighted was the position of the motor,very difficult to cool down an the bushings,very easy to wear down…go on http://www.usps.com and checkout your costs.
I’ve just paid $27 for a 2 punds,discounted because paid the shipping onlinelol lol lol
anyway…I’ve to quote that question,need some info about the first(?) FM RX/ESC on 1/24 scale.
For who’s interested in,on toyeast there’re several upgrades for 02m,included CF chassis and upper plate,also very very cheap!!!
walawala store on ebay sell bb for cheeeeeeeeeeap 😉
I’ve bought my ball diff from toyeast,quite cheap(USD 12 more or less),should be 3racing or topcad…
chassis has plastic bushing.
xmods gen1 should be 3x6x2mm and 3x6x2,5mm if widetrack
xmods evo should be(I’m not sure) 6x10x2mm the diff and shaft bb,and 3x6x2 the AWD axle bb.yes the shipping pirce is around that,if he ship with usps priority mail international.
I’ve paid almost always around that shipping cost when buying from the states…
what about rear upper plate?
It seems you can’t switch from MM to RM without swapping all the EB cover.Isn’t this a whole piece with the upper shock holder?
Anyway very nice model…personally I don’t like the GT convertible,but the model look greatPS:welcome in the SDTC(Stock Diff Trouble Club):D 😀 😀
chassis is ok.
I say this because as a cleaned a little the diff gears it worked properly for a few,to became again unbalanced,even in forward running.I noticed that power is not equally transferred to the rear wheels.
I’d fix a little the springs anyway.the diameter is a bit high IMO,and sometimes the rear ones go out of the upper plate shape..I’ve opened the diff and cleaned off some dirt,but the problem persist,also beacuse the stock wheel nut influence the friction on bushings and wheels wchich of course influence the friction in the diff…waiting for my ball diff,hope arrives soon…
In my opinion the black painted parts disturb the shape of the body,but maybe it’?s just an effect due to the pics.
Very nice and precise work anyway!
:thumbs_up: :thumbs_up: :thumbs_up:wow…which motor?I’d say plasmatomic AT LEAST…. lol
I’m a lot interested in the new FM system,because when was running the Toyeast forum they spoken about lots of troubles,that have caused almost a year delay n production…
quote…:D 😀 😀
with all that upgrades and costs the performance became similar…more or less…it’s a taste matter.
I’ve been in xmods for a year,now I’ve bough an iwaver8similar to mini-z) and I really don’t dislike it…
of course mini-z AWD electronic and plastic quality is great( a long way better than xmods)
But suspension and weight balance is better on xmods.
For the suspension especially the gen1,if alloy and with bearings(better if wide track),but also the EVO system is better than a mini-z,if alloy.
I say if alloy because stock chassis has very much slop in wheel shaft and knuckles,but problem can be fixed with GPMs and bearings.
for the weith balance the Evo is better,because the gen 1 has batteries sidemounted,a little hieher than EVO.
The position of the batteries on the AWD,all on one side,gives some balancing trouble in turns,for waht I’ve seen.Gpm isn’t the best alloy producer,but on an xmods the performance are great…and of course you can switch an xmods fro RWD to AWD when you want and without huge cost(AWD kit cost around 20 USD…)
just my 2 cents
Damn….they’ve come out…now my iwaver drop their prices….:D
Hey don’t forget to post a detailed review,especially about the radio system…
where did nyou order it?
problem detected:the diff don’t work properly while car is turning leftside.In fact,with servo perfectly centered on 0%trimmin,the car as a wider steering radius when turning left,while turning right @full throttle it spins as in a burnout.
I checked the diff pushing each tires on the table and lifting the other,tried putting throtthle and see the different movement and sound(crackle crackle:D ).
Then checked the diff itself.moving the 2 shaft it caould be felt the more difficult movement in one side.I’ll open this evening to see if I have eaten some satellite…I’ll go for a ball diff soon…It should be the same as for the EVO nelly…am I wrong?
Iwaver 02 deluxe don’t have H-plate…however I’ll try today checking the spring slop and trying with locked diff…the front steering system appears regular and even…
thanks I’ll post as a solve the trouble…I’ve ordered the servo alloy parts(holder and saver)and an alloy tierod,because the plstic one is very “bendable” lol
I’ve noticed that runnin on my pavement it’s very difficult to control,maybe I’ll get one ball diff,but surely a lot of interferences in driving is due to my tiles…
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